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stumpyv8

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About stumpyv8

  • Rank
    Looks for Match

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Running around (safely) with firearms
    Custom cars
    Rather stupid dogs (of the canine variety)
  • Real Name
    Jon Axe

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  1. Thanks for the explanation. I'm still not getting it though. I think you're saying the bolt is forward on an empty chamber. Going back to your picture, is the shell catch holding the shell? It looks like the shell is being held by the lifter. Which model of 1301 is it? By the lifter & sthe serial number position I'm guessing its a mk1? If so, is that an A400 or 1301 Pro bolt release button? Hard to see from the pic but it doesn't look like the original. Also, in your original message you mention "holding down the lever". Does that mean you keep the bolt release depressed while loading? Sorry if I'm coming across as a bit stupid, just making sure we diagnose the problem & rectify it for you
  2. No worries I'm unsure what you mean by "not cocked". I've just checked mine & if the hammer is forward, the lifter is locked in the down position making it impossible to put any shells into the mag tube. Is it only the 1st shell that's hanging up?
  3. You don't need to pull the trigger to get one out of the mag & on to the lifter - Start with an empty gun - Press the bolt relase - Load shells into tube - Press little silver button at the back of the lifter (instead of pulling the trigger) Alternatively, you may be able to ghost load one on to the lifter after loading the mag by pulling back on the bolt enough to load a shell onto the lifter through the ejection port. Depends which model gun & lifter you have
  4. The innovative Finn mod was a flat step that pushed the lifter down. The innovative Brit mod of the Finn mod was to make the step into a ramp (to make it easier to hit the Beretta button) & make the ramp higher to push the lifter into the gun further.
  5. My mid bead covers the bottom third of the front fiber & is good out to 100. If the target is small or I'm unsure about the distance I hold that sight picture on the bottom edge of the target
  6. The load/trigger/rack process won't work if the hammer is forward. The bolt would need to be pulled back to release the lifter. From there, 2 options. - Bolt forward, load/trigger/rack - drop one in the chamber/bolt forward/finish load Personally i don't like the load/trigger/rack system. I'm not convinced that pulling the trigger as part of the loading process is a good idea (here goes the "the gun is already loaded" comments ) Sure, it's fine for an unloaded situation but if there's a brain fart & the unloaded load technique is used when the gun has one in the chamber it's going to end badly.
  7. You won't be sorry dude. Let me know if you'd like any help with technique
  8. Yes & no. Depends on your needs, your physicality, your technique...... There is a rule in IPSC shotgun (5.2.3.2) about a maximum height of 170mm which can restrict the angle of the rig & may effect your decision. Most of the top competitors i know just have a 28 & considering their level, if there were an advantage to multiple smaller holders they'd already be doing it
  9. I load weak hand (gun under armpit) for various reasons. I like the stability that having a good grip & multiple points of contact bring, I like being able to see my rig, the loading port & where I'm going when I'm loading. I also like that my weak hand is my loading hand for all platforms leaving the strong hand to do nothing more than control the gun. As a beginner i think its a much easier process to learn & as a coach it's definitely much easier to teach. From a performance perspective, most of the top guys utilize both techniques as both techniques have their strengths & weaknesses. Personally, i haven't bothered to learn both. I'm already pretty quick with loading & the work required to learn a new technique that may save a tenth here or there on the load isn't going to benefit my game as much as other improvements i could work on for the same investment of time. If you can try the rig before you buy, don't worry too much about whether the caddy you're using is L or R. The offset does make a difference but for testing purposes those differences won't be big enough to change your decision on technique. The main thing is to make sure that the caddy is set up correctly so that you're not fighting against it (or your body). Top tip - you want your wrist to be in as neutral a position when you grab from the rig Let me know if i can help in any way
  10. Dan, as ever, is being kind. Possibly because he's one of the nicest guys I've met in Practical Shooting. Fair warning, I'm sponsored by Kings. I was buying their gear before that arrangement came about, I'll be buying it if the arrangent ever changes & I'll carry on using it for as long as it's the best on the market..... if it's good enough for most of the top shooters at the IPSC World Shoot last year & man enough to cope with Blueridge & Rock Hard we can assume it's fit for purpose After you've had a play with them locally, let me know if you need any help setting them up (or any other caddies you settle on) or if you need any help with loading technique
  11. Yup, should be fine Good choice with Kings as well
  12. Hey Dan, thanks for the mention Hi Anders, According to the IPSC rules - 1.2.1.3 Long Courses – Must not require more than 28 rounds to complete. A COF requiring 24 or more rounds must not stipulate an unloaded gun as a start condition. Most of the competitors i see on the international circuits use a 28 as their main rig as you're not going to need more if you're accurate. Some use both weak hand & strong hand techniques so may have their rig more suited to that. I use a 28 as my main rig & use a 12 as a velcro backed removable caddy (for stages that require no ammo on competitor at start) or as a pre load (no pre load tables in IPSC) Hope this helps Jon
  13. Try here - part 138. https://www.omps2.it/en/firearm-spare-parts/beretta-spare-parts/semiautomatics/1301-tactical.html?limit=all Not sure if they'll ship to the US, gotta be worth asking though.
  14. It depends where the carbon is building up. Personally, I scrape the excess off with something suitable (screwdriver, pocket knife) & then put the bronze brush in my Dremel & take it back to shiny. No doubt someone will say I'm doing it wrong, but she's got 5 years worth of heavy use & has always cycled with no issues.....
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