Gregg K

I have seen many shooters stand outside the box and when I encourage them to get in and get settled but don't touch or un-bag their firearm while the painters are working they tell me that they were told that it's against the rules and they would be DQ'ed. I have herd this many times from all sorts of people so somewhere some knucklehead is telling people this nonsense. In fairness you really have to stay on top of a first time shooter to wait until the "Make Ready" to handle his firearm so it is probably a range rule at some club venues. RO just needs to be paying attention.

Yep, I watched that one happen. I'm with you RePete, allowing people to sweep themself is plain stupid. Like you said above, I would just sit a little sideways and as far as the AIWB you could practice how you sit and draw without sweeping yourself as well. It's a training issue. Allowing stupid has no place on the range. I have seen at other events how match sponsorship brings in corruption.

Just a heads up, I've never seen a 617 that didn't need it's too tight chambers reamed out.

I have run them all. I am faster with my speed loaders and my model 66 than a 625, 646 or 686. That said I was very proficient with speed loaders. I also once thought that I would be faster with a 686 than a 66 but when running the old 90 round classifier I would consistently be 5 seconds faster with the 66 and since the timer doesn't lie my decision was made by the timer instead of what I felt would be better. I used cut down Jet Loaders that I'm sure can't be found anymore so getting someone that knows what they are doing to cut down some SafariLand Comp III's would be the next best. I found that cutting down to a cartridge hole depth of .200" was perfect.

Really too short of a notice for something of this magnitude.

That's the killer for me. I run 2 sometimes 3 Steel Challenge matches a month. While a lot of people shoot .22 now I would not exclude the center fire guys. If I was to exclude the center fire guys in tomorrows match I would loose 18 of the 55 guns.

Looking at the RCSA rulebook, they only have 2 divisions, Open or Limited. No special revolver division there either. I also see no form of classifications.

It would have been super simple to fix before the scores were processed on the Wednesday after they were submitted. After processing I have no idea how hard it is. I guess no one saw the error after they were submitted and before processing? A 6.19 should have really stuck out to whoever uploaded the scores but we all make mistakes. I know that I'll NEVER shoot 6.19 on Pendulum. Maybe if we can drop 2 runs.

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I think the fact that the electronic ear protection is not canceling out the loud conversations was the issue for the shooter, they want the conversations muted so they can hear the steel. I still think a talk from an RO about having respect for their fellow shooter is the solution.

AS an RO I have stopped and addressed the peanut gallery behind and kindly asked them to keep it down while the shooter is trying to concentrate. I may have said to STFU a few times . Seriously though, if it's that bad that the shooter can't hear a hit on steel the RO needs to take control of the squad.

I'm confused now. Originally you said the trigger was not resetting. It sounds like now you are saying that it resets and the hammer drops but doesn't drive the firing pin to the cartridge. This seems a lot different than the original problem. Same result, the gun doesn't fire when you want it to but sounds a lot different than the first issue.

With a broken firing pin the broke front half will sometimes float forward and be sticking out of the bolt face so that when a round is picked up by the bolt from the magazine and tries to slide up the bolt face and behind the extractor the rim of the brass hits the tip of the firing pin sticking out of the bolt face and jams the gun and marks up the rim.

I'm running 7 Fire 8 HD's as well, no issues, no fainting in the heat like an iPad. You catch them on sale every once in a while for $50. They run all day on the battery.

Any ideas on how to incentivize people to become certified? When I was shooting a lot of USPSA I knew that the best way to avoid having calls made on me or getting bad calls was to know the rules better than the guys running you and be able to advocate for myself in the event of a call. Steel Challenge doesn't have the complexity of USPSA so that may not be a good enough reason for Steel Challenge shooters.

This is very disappointing. I would love to have some certified Steel Challenge RO's at the matches. I'm pretty sure that I'm one of few in my local area, maybe the only since I've never met another. The plain facts are my local guys are never going to go through a USPSA certification to get a Steel Challenge endorsement. USPSA is a bunch of running around, my guys don't want to move 6 feet between 2 boxes on one stage.

I can't use muffs with my rifles. I tried several types of electronic plugs and the Peltor TEP-100 have been the best for me. Been using them with the skull screws for about 3 years now and still happy.

I buy the 10 pair boxes. I tear one every once in a while so it's worth having spares. A pair will last me a few months usually. A 10 pair box is around $25

Is the bolt and receiver a Kidd? I'm surprised that Kidd will look at it unless it is all his components.

And the rest of the story is???

I forgot to mention that it's worth checking to make sure that the hammer strut is not contacting the stock. I had one gun that I had to relieve the stock to keep the hammer strut from contacting when cycled. Just take the gun out of the stock and check if the strut will protrude past the trigger housing, some do and some don't.

Download the instructions.. https://www.coolguyguns.com/PDF-Documents_df_37.html Increase the weight of the trigger by turning the adjustment clockwise inside the housing for the trigger reset. The housing for the reset pin also adjusts but don't mess with that, you need to increase the pressure on the back of the pin in the housing that presses against the back of the trigger. Some guns are more sensitive and need a little more weight to function properly. I have noticed guns in aluminum chassis need a little more weight. I think it's the vibration from the solid mounting. Kidd tries to put a little blue Loc-tite on the adjustment but it still backs out on its own sometimes. It's really tiny little adjustment and would be hard to get it to lock and not gum up the spring and pin with the thread locker. You have to watch close to see if you are actually turning the adjustment because there is no feel to it. The size for the adjuster listed in the instruction may not be correct but just figure it out and use the right size. Again there is just no feel to the adjustment, you have to watch carefully.

I have had and worked on a good number of Ruger pistols. I had one OEM bolt that was bad and had it replaced. I also had a VQ bolt that had terrible machine work and dimensions that were off. VQ replaced that bolt with another that was better but still disappointing especially since the gun had nothing but jams with the VQ bolt. I put the bolt in another reliable gun and the jams followed it. I tried switching out extractors and springs but no luck so I returned it and have been running OEM bolts in my Ruger pistols since. I probably just had terrible luck but at the price I was sure expecting a lot better. I know a lot of people love them, hopefully what ever issues they were having at the time have been resolved.

I hope to get time this weekend to do the same and test out shooting from the center box only so we aren't totally guessing but using real data. I think we are pretty close to knowing but I want to see it on a timer.

I also think that 4 seconds is too much. 3 seconds was plenty. Nobody is going to be denied a title by someone taking 9 seconds worth of penalty on a stage and if they did their game needs serious work anyway. I'd have to shoot some strings all from the center to get a better opinion but maybe less than 3 would be appropriate.