Gregg K

Like @Hoops mentioned, most of us in this area run the TK double mags with Ruger internals. I have been running the same internals for the last 3 1/2 years with way more rounds through them than what your wife has put through hers. I do smooth and polish the outside surfaces of the Ruger metal feed lips where they rub the bolt. Many years back they came smoother than they do today so I just started slicking them up myself since I have the tools to easily do so. I have also contoured and polished the feed ramp in the mags but probably isn't really a necessity. The TK double mags do crack after a while but hasn't made them malfunction plus TK has replaced them for free any time I have asked to refresh them. As @Hoops mentioned, one of our local shooters had a Kidd gun that I don't believe ever made it through a match without malfunctioning until he went to the TK double mag bodies, factory mags fit pretty sloppy in his gun. His Kidd gun runs fine now on the doubles. I mention this since you said you also have a Kidd gun. With Ruger springs in the rotors I wind them to 2.5 turns. Make sure that you only start counting the tension turns until after the long vain on the rotor contacts the feed lips, then count the turns from there. I have seen where others didn't tension properly because they didn't know when to start counting. As mentioned, run good HV ammo and clean the inside of the mag bodies when you see the wax ring start to form (if running the clear mag bodies)

@ZackJonesAfter looking at this again I see I made an assumption because of the USPSA rules in my head. Choice one is not a good option if you can't stay holstered when shooting just one division. I would prefer another option that aligns with USPSA rules. This is the USPSA rule that I'm referring to ... 5.1.9 A competitor must never use or wear more than one firearm during a course of fire (see Rule 10.5.7). Having a rule that matches up with USPSA rules would be helpful for the RO's especially since we are forced to be USPSA RO before we can be an RO for SCSA. Yes, this is also a dig at no separate path to RO SCSA. Choice 4 is still good since it puts the responsibility on the competitor but doesn't match up with USPSA rules.

I'm in favor of 1 or 4, all or nothing. Easy to apply. Number 4 puts the burden on the shooter to be responsible. For consistency with USPSA rules, number one would be best. I would be good with either #1 or #4 but like I said I want it all or nothing.

@ZackJones In reference to the new stages proposal, is it in the plan to eliminate any current stages or would we have a pool of 16 stages to choose from? Thanks

I'm wondering what the procedure is to certify a timers accuracy and can multiple timers be triggered to run at the same time for verification. I'm sure Jerry can do it. I'm just curious about how it gets certified and documented.

I would have thought that for a record attempt that the plates would be freshly painted. The marks on the plates indicate more than 3 runs. Thinking this wasn't the Guinness attempt

I ran into the same thing with Mini-Mags and Rem Oil. I quit using it. It's OK if you burn them all up the same day but don't let them sit a week.

No rule that says you can't, just in inference that carries no penalty. Pretty hard to enforce an inference with no penalty. They should just write this into the rules to make it ok in writing but I doubt that will happen. I tried to get them to re-write 8.15 and 8.17 to align with each other but couldn't make any headway. 8.1.7 says you can bring a flagged rifle to the box muzzle up or down but 8.1.5 says it must be in a bag or muzzle up to leave. If you can come to the box muzzle up or down you should be able to leave muzzle up or down. I'm afraid this will just be another one of those inconsistencies in the rules. Personally I think it's smarter to just bag the extra gun since it's just a liability. Just think about Outer Limits, if you trip or bounce the extra gun out you're DQ'ed and all for nothing when you could have just bagged the extra gun and probably moved better without the extra gear.

Doing the math on this, the ammo would have to be 1646 FPS to make 107 PF. If it did make this velocity it would be in violation of rule 5.5.5 I don't want to be anywhere near steel being shot at this velocity.

Your USPSA club would need to affiliate with SCSA. There would be no additional fee to affiliate the steel club for an existing USPSA club. The club would need to put on the minimum number of steel matches with the minimum number of classifiers. Here is a clip from the announcement page.. Steel Challenge Shooting Association   There is no cost associated with affiliating a new Steel Challenge club if you already have a USPSA club. Many USPSA clubs are already running a steel match and shooting official Steel Challenge stages. The requirements for an SCSA affiliate are to run three SCSA matches a year, and to include at least two of the eight official stages in each match. As soon as the club is affiliated, it can start uploading results and paying the activity fee of $1 per gun so that USPSA members can also become classified in the numerous SCSA Divisions.

I run a couple of matches each month and find that about 3 minutes per gun is about the norm for a stage. We squad per gun so 10 guns per squad may be 5 shooters. In general when this works out this way, my guys are experienced enough to have figured out the work load to make it flow with the fewer bodies. My experience has been that if you have 2 squads and one is 5 2 gun shooters and the other is 10 1 gun shooters, the 5 2 gun shooters squad will finish the stage first, they aren't painting between the first and second gun and usually it's a pistol and a rifle so the gear change is a mater of putting one gun in a bag and pulling the other off the cart or wagon which is faster than getting another shooter in the box and ready. I do think Rick's observation about it used to be more centerfire has more to do with the increased times than other factors. Most rimfire guns change mags every string which just takes more time and multiplied by the large number of rimfire shooters now just takes more time. If I shoot a stage with a 15-22 and a 30 round mag I will be done much faster than shooting my 10/22 changing 10 round mags with each string. There are always other factors depending on experience levels and squad organization but I think rimfires changing mags every string is a big factor in the increased times to run shooters. The increased number of rifle shooters may be another factor, if you add up all the bagging/unbagging and flagging versus pull a centerfire gun out of a holster and make ready it can really add up additional time per gun.

No issues at all. I'm running 8 Fire 8 tablets with 6 AMG timers

So we still have 8.1.7 that says after removing the rifle from the case at a side berm it can be transported to the shooting box reasonably vertical up or down but then along comes the new and improved 8.3.8.3 that says you case or go muzzle up when you are done, cleared and flagged. Make them both the same, I don't really care which they change but if muzzle up or down is good coming in the box then it should be good leaving.

I remember watching a one handed open gun shooter that had a belt rig something like a moon clip rack that a revolver shooter would use but he had magazines mounted base down and he would just punch out the old mag and press the open magwell down on top of the fresh magazine and go back to work, he was pretty efficient and good at it.

Still current and available online. I got tired of getting a reflection off the emitter window on my 510's so I went to the 512's to get an enclosed optic. To get a green one I had to go with a 512T which is Ti construction and heavier than the regular 512. I am also using the AEMS in the multi reticle in green and it is like 1/3 the weight of my 512T and nearly the same size window, I'm liking it.

A friend with a pretty bad astigmatism talked to the folks at Vortex and they told him that most people with the condition have the best luck with their optics with an etched reticle. My friend followed their advice and said it worked out great.

I like these the best for a few reasons. It's relatively cheap, it has enough of a pointed shape so you always know what direction the muzzle is pointed and you can just half way unzip the case and get the rifle in and out with never sweeping the hand holding the case. The last reason is why I don't like to see scabbard cases because too many people will sweep the hand holding the scabbard while bagging and un-bagging. Just a few things to think about when selecting a case.

Older 15-22's have a different firing pin design from the newer ones. I can't remember how old one of my 15-22's is but when I broke a pin S&W had me send it in and they swapped out the bolt to be able to use the new style pin. If you swapped your pin out and it works you obviously have the newer style. I worked with firingpins.com a few years back to change the design some and we came up with a much more reliable pin. Stay away from the Ti pins as they were just not as good for reliable ignition.

Thomas, good point. It may have been like you said, nobody saw anything objectionable and went about their business figuring that it was going to happen.

I curious what would happen if everyone was asked to comment on proposals again. Maybe folks would see that they need to participate but I'm betting that they wouldn't. I participated as well as some of you and basically were ignored because we didn't have enough of a voice to take any action. I'm not sure I would take the time to comment again since nothing will happen without a large input. It should work like an election to the board, if only 1 percent vote, that 1 percent gets to decide the direction we will go. If only 1 percent of the membership voted and elected a board member would they still take the position with such a small sampling?

I ordered the few that I have with 1.5# which was fine for a while but every once in a great while the trigger would not reset so I run them at 1 3/4 # and they have been fine. It's just a matter of turning a set screw to change the # so no big deal except if you play with it some and wear out the hold of the loctite on the set screw you will need to re-apply some locktite to keep it from backing out. Use a quality ground 1/16" driver to make adjustments so you can tell where you are at. The cheapo alan wrenches can just slip and round off. These are really nice... Hex Driver

One difference is with the complete trigger from Kidd you have an assembly behind the trigger blade that you can use to adjust over travel and inside of the over travel housing is a spring and plunger to adjust the trigger return tension and also adjust the pull weight. The only problems that I have ever had with the complete trigger were from that extra component, I have had to remove the spring and plunger, clean out the housing, spring and plunger and very carefully reapply blue loctite to the set screw for the trigger weight setting being careful not to get the loctite down in the spring and plunger. If you don't lock the set screw in place it will back out and the trigger will stop resetting. My polymer housing with the kit is 1-3/4# trigger pull, the same as I have my complete trigger adjusted to. I don't care about the over travel adjustment and the pull weight is the same so I'm not really getting anything out of having that extra adjustment capability. If you are picky about over travel adjustments and want to be able to dial in what pull weight you want you may be happier with the complete trigger assembly. The ejector on the complete assembly is also fixed in place and not flopping around.

Kidd only recommends their trigger kit to be put into factory polymer trigger housings. Some have tried putting the parts in others with mixed results. Kidd will not help you if you don't follow his instructions to install into only factory polymer trigger housings. I have complete Kidd triggers and also a kit installed into a polymer BX-25 trigger housing and all work great. I actually like the Kidd trigger in my BX-25 the best since it lets me use a Mag Dropper magazine release. The shape of the Magnum Research and Kidd trigger groups will not allow the use of some magazine releases due to the shape of the trigger guard.

I can tell you that I have run a lot of rounds through my MPX and still love it. I used to have to clean the gas system out and clean the rest of the gun every 400 or so rounds when using coated bullets and have tried many brands, weights, powder and power factors. After running plated and jacketed rounds and seeing the difference I will never use coated bullets in my MPX again, it's just not worth saving less than .5 of a cent to run coated rounds. I just brush out and lube the bolt if I shoot 4-500 rounds. The gas system stays remarkably clean with plated bullets. As an added plus I don't get any build up in the flash hider either like coated bullets would.

Since no one responded I'll answer my own question in case someone else wants to know. I called Radian and they said it should work but if it didn't they said I could get my money back so I gave it a try. I installed the Radian Talon 45/90 competition 2 lever set in my MPX with a HiperFire Eclipse. I set it up for 45 degree throw. So far so good, I have had no issues.