bwikel

Ever fumbled a locator pin when taking it in or out? Those little tabs make them easy to grab and they don't get lost in my bullet tray when they need to go back in.

Here is a pic of the locator pin I modified and added an O-ring to. It prevents the shell plate from snapping and eliminated my powder splash.

I will post a picture of it on my press when I get home this evening.

Candy cane your caddies and set them up so you load your slug or buckshot as the last rounds in the tube on a reload. All you have to do then is take a birdshot target (to use the round in the chamber) and transition to the slug or buckshot. It keeps you from running the gun dry and lets you mix in slugs or buck after your initial shots at the buzzer. The only watch out is you can't drop your slug or buckshot on the ground during your reload.

If you want to save some money and prevent all your powder splash you don't need all the shell plate bearings and light weight detent ball replacement parts. Just take your locator pin in station 3 and chuck it up in a drill, use a small file to cut a V groove in it and then add an O ring over the top of it that will fit snug in the v groove without popping out. The O ring will drag on the shell plate slightly and stop it from popping in place on the detent ball it will also drag on the case as it comes into position for station 3. This simple change will eliminate all your powder splash and is more economical that buying all the extra parts. Station 3 was the best place for me to use this in since it is the locator pin that I remove the least amount on the press. I tried the weaker detent spring, light weight detent ball and the shell plate bearing. I didn't eliminate all my powder splash until I added the O ring. I feel like I wasted my money on the other parts now.

I use the Wiley X guard. Very comfortable, has a foam insert at the top to keep sweat out of your eyes and comes with 3 sets of lenses (rust, smoke and clear)

I make inert 12 GA dummy shells message me if you are interested in getting some. I have sold several hundred and everyone has been happy with them. $10/dozen plus shipping.

Sierra makes a 110 gr HP you may want to look at. I have had good luck with them in my 300 blk.

The data sheet lists the it as a SFP scope that is 10.5" long and 22 oz. Turrets are not capped but lockable with zero return stop.

I put a Guncraft flat trigger in my PC18.9 and it has a much better feel to it. It took very minimal fitting, in fact after I polished up the trigger it fit well with no modifications. I have also found the only way to get more than 21 rounds in the stock mags with Dawson +5 extended bases is to use the base pad insert. Without the insert my mags springs would tip allowing a rounds beside the follower every time if I went past 21.

Great advice listed above. Have you used varget in your Dillon powder drop yet? I know some say they have had good luck on powder charge accuracy but I haven't on extruded powder.

I load the hornady 75gr really long (2.295") and they are still a little crunchy at seating with 24gr of varget.

I check my charge every time the powder cop goes off otherwise I run it.

Hornady 75gr HPBT 24.0 gr Varget COAL 2.295" Base to Ogive 1.89" 2650 fps 18" JP Wylde 1/8

Coated bullets won't chamber in my PC18.9 past about 1.10" so I am having my barrel throated. You are probably seeing a similar issue. Round nose jacketed ammo has no problem out to 1.15".

The fiber on the end is enclosed in a metal tube and inset. If you have your head higher then looking down the barrel with a cheek weld you can't see the fiber in the tube. Hope that makes more sense.

I also run a Champion Easy Hit front sight in the 2.5mm size. The way the tube is designed if you don't keep your head down with a good cheek weld you can see the sight.

My experience has been that Varget is temperature insensitive. Do you feel confident in the velocity number you used for your hold overs? I am assuming you are using ballistic software to determine your holds?

I am running a 10 lb. recoil spring and using my factory guide rod with no issues. I have a 9 and 11 lb spring ordered to see what works/feels the best. Those of you that are running Dawson extended bases are you running a spring other than the factory mag spring and if so which on are you having good luck with?

I stated I use them on brass I decap first (rifle brass). The process for pistol brass is identical except the SS pins are not added. I use 2 oz of wash and wax in the 20" drum and 4 oz in the 40" drum. The biggest difference I see using it is pistol brass doesn't stick to the expander like it does with dawn detergent. Also the brass seems to tarnish slower.

On pistol brass since I don't knock the primers out before I wet tumble them I use zero pins. I run a 20" long 6" pvc drum and I fill it 3/4 full of brass add cold water to a level above the brass then add armor all wash and wax and a teaspoon of lemi-shine powder. I run my batches for 1 hour spin off the pins in a Dillon separator while rinsing with cold water. To dry them I lay them out on a towel over night in a conditioned air room. They are dry and ready to load in about 12 hrs. I also have a 40" drum for larger batches but it get pretty heavy when full of brass and water. The only time I use SS pins is tumbling with primers out and I don't use more than 5 lbs regardless of which drum I tumble in and have great results. Spinning off the pins is the biggest PITA of the entire process IMO.

I have the same a similar set up on the factor PC18.9 mags. The Dawson +5 pads fit well but the Arrendondo followers will not lock on the factory mag springs. I can load 21 in them and they run fine. If you load more than 21 they turn into salt shakers. Should I be running aftermarket springs with the base pad inserts that the followers will lock on or should I run the factory follower with the factory springs?

I also run my holster on an ELS fork rather than a QLS, it gives me more options on setting my belt up for stages and I often run a shot shell caddy in the spot on stages with no pistol. It is really nice to only have what you are going to actually use in a stage on your belt. I would size the inner and outer belt at least 2" larger than your actual waist size.

I just had a custom kydex holster made by Red Eye Tactical. He does excellent work and can get whatever color or pattern you are looking for. Give Michael a shout I'm positive he can help you get what you want. Tell him I sent you. https://www.redeyetacticalgear.com/

Go to Office Depot and buy a pack of jewelry tags. The pins fit the hole used to capture the tag string. You get several for a couple bucks. Really makes the locator pins easier to remove and replace.