bwikel
-
Posts
480 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by bwikel
-
-
USPSA 5.2.1.6 states the muzzle must point to a spot within 3 ft. of conveyance.
-
With the long gun tubes affixed to the cart do they break the safe angle when the cart is tilted back for transport and flag people in the general area?
-
50 minutes ago, RaylanGivens said:
Lots of people run the 5015HD and steel buffer weight in standard carbine length buffer tubes... I ran my PCC like that for quite a while... But when you move the 5015HD and steel buffer weight to an A5 buffer tube with no other changes, you are effectively long stroking your PCC... Not usually what you want.
You can't run the 5015HD and spacer weight in a cmmg rdb system with a carbine length buffer tube since the bolt and carrier are the same length as a gas gun BCG. By using the longer 9mm 5015HD buffer in an A5 tube the bolt will just lock back and the spacer weight short strokes the system. Did you even read my whole post?
-
10 minutes ago, zzt said:
How can you stand the noise? I ran one in a Strike Industries buffer tube and it was so loud I could not hear the bullet hitting steel.
I'm not sure what issue you had but my setup is as quiet as my JP silent capture system in my 5.56 rifle.
-
9 hours ago, Vogel said:
What hydraulic buffer / spring do you recommend for 13" radial delayed blowback PCC with carbine buffer tube?
On Blitzkrieg product page it says:
This buffer is also an excellent choice for the CMMG radially delayed blowback 9mm guns.
https://www.blitzkriegcomponents.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RB5000
I'm having hard time deciding between PCC HD buffer RB5015HD and carbine buffer RB5000.
I run a CMMG RDB with the following set up. It is very smooth with very little dot movement.
- A5 Buffer Tube
- Blitz 9mm buffer 5015HD with blitz spacer weight
- Tubbs flat wire spring
- 124gr reloads running 136 PF
With an A5 tube the spacer/HD buffer short strokes the system to the perfect length since the bolt length is the same as a 5.56 AR.
-
There are a few common issues with the CMMG RDB that could be causing your issues of extraction/ejection.
- Your extractor spring is weak - I only run extra power extractor springs (I change them annually or every 5k, whichever comes first), they are one coil longer and you don't need all the hokie o-rings to make them work.
- Your extractor may be damaged or full or carbon. When you clean your bolt take a metal pick to the extractor to assure there is no carbon build up on the hook.
- You ejector spring is weak or dirty. If you have never pulled the ejector it is likely full of carbon and causing the spring to bind or lock up. I also run extra power ejector springs and ultrasonic clean the stripped bolt or pull the spring to remove all the carbon.
- If you over lube your bolt it will just get dirty faster. Only run oil on the contact points where the bolt shows wear.
By the looks of your pics the bolt is losing the empty case before the ejector has a chance to kick it out. I would start by replacing the extractor spring and detail cleaning the extractor.
-
52 minutes ago, Bdh821 said:
At this rate, you could just get a MPX as they shoot softer than like 95% of all the other PCCs I've used. But at the end of the day, this stuff wont help you get to GM. You just gotta go fast and shoot A's. It's that simple...
I will bet JP doesn't require 3 generations to get it reliable. There is a high probability they will hit the mark out of the gate and it will be well supported.
-
Delayed roller would be an awesome upgrade in a PCC with AR ergonomics, hopefully they put it on a diet as well.
-
I use dry lube spray. Spray it into a plastic coffee can then drop brass inside and hand tumble it. It dries on the brass and if it does get inside the case it will not cause powder to stick. Once loaded you can wiped off with a rag or dry tumbled off. A can will go a long way and is more economical than one shot.
-
9 minutes ago, DJRyan13 said:
Does brake fluid eat up plastic like Acetone?
There is a big difference between brake fluid and break cleaner. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is safe on hard plastics.
-
3 minutes ago, MikeyScuba said:
A can of brake clean never leaves my reloading bench.
You spray brake cleaner down the primer magazine?
What frequency do you spray it out?
I assume you are using non-chlorinated brake cleaner to prevent any corrosion?
-
On 1/1/2020 at 8:15 AM, Les Snyder said:
Memphis...one more thing if possible... can you give me the ejection port height dimension for the factory Guard upper? I think I may chuck it in the milling machine at some point... thanks
I don't think this got answered but the factory guard ejection port opening is about 0.62 in. I don't really see a need to open up the port if the extractor and ejector are working correctly.
-
Anyone trying to install the extra power extractor spring make sure you aren't trying to use the original plug or an o-ring. With the larger diameter end of the spring down on the bolt you should be able to lay the extractor on top of it then compress it in the middle and insert the pin.
-
I am running on colt mags but I modified my mag slots. When I added the extra power extractor spring I don't need to use a plug or an o-ring.
-
I had some extraction issues and solved it with an extra power extractor spring and removed the plug completely. Zero issues since then. Do you have some pics of your extractor where it looks like it is contacting the barrel extension?
-
22 minutes ago, BartCarter said:
I have "adjusted" all my mags to work with my particular Colt setups. That includes shaving or bending feed lips and compressing the mag body in a vice.
But I would certainly like to know what compromises a "tuned" Colt SMG mag.
I have never seen a metalform mag (the only legitimate colt mags) need tuning.
-
On 12/2/2019 at 1:04 AM, Jcgatus said:
it has ran reliable since then. I contacted Limcat and informed them about this. They sent me 2 tuned colt pcc mags.
I have never heard of tuned colt smg mags, how are they tuned?
-
1 hour ago, jdlincoln said:
Really guys. What works 100% without screwing with captured guiderods, or "opening" Glock springs, is the ZR guiderod (now available with the SF "hole" already drilled) and a 13# Wilson 5" 1911 flatwire spring.
$44 for an uncaptured guide rod and a replacement spring when you can just by a single spring and spend 10 seconds opening one end, no thanks.
-
18 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
Has anybody gotten one of these and actually used it yet. Really looking at it but want to hear some feedback first
Think I read they weren't being released until late Dec.
-
Just bottom out whatever primer you use, problem solved. I load everything with CCI SRP with zero issues, even with striker fired guns.
-
19 hours ago, AHI said:
Have seen cases that were wet cleaned then dried put into storage (sealed container ) that had water in them
6 months later.
If they had water in them they were never dried properly to begin with. Also this usually causes primers to corrode in the pocket and results in a lot of ringers.
-
8 minutes ago, Maximis228 said:
You must have never experienced a tube light off on you.
No I have not because I stop on my 650 when it doesn't feel like the primer is inserting normal. Even if it did light up the stack the way this bowl is designed it looks unlikely it would effect anything held in the bowl feeder, the tube on the press would be destroyed regardless.
-
It would be awesome if they offered a way to mount it directly to a Dillon press and set it up to feed primers like a case feeder. That would allow you to load every how many primers the bowl will hold and it could feed primers directly into the press as you are running.
-
12 minutes ago, sweatpants said:
Does it matter if you get lube (lanolin) inside of cases when reloading?
I would be concerned with any lube that could dampen the powder and potentially prevent a complete powder burn.
CMMG RDB in competition
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
I run extra power extractor springs with no donut or other add ons that can fail and change the springs every 5k or at least once a year, whichever comes first. I also change the ejector spring at the same interval with an extra power spring. Another thing I did was move away from running titegroup in my loads, it fouled up my action very badly and needed cleaning every 500 rounds or so to assure reliability.
Keep an eye on the wear on the cam pin as well, mine did break at about 15k.