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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

BradfromND

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Posts posted by BradfromND

  1. 11 minutes ago, AustinT said:

    Word of wisdom on the hi-viz (or anything else with one screw, for that matter) - install it, take the fiber out, drill a hole in the back of it into your vent rib, and stick a roll pin in there. Otherwise you have a high likelihood of it being a sideways hi-viz in the middle of a stage one day!

     

    Happened to me which is why I have the Briley sight. It is the same sight as the Hi-viz but is dovetailed into the rib and can't come out.

  2. I started out trying to make my rifles so light. My rifles have gotten a little heavier as I gained more experience. For me, I dont mind as little extra weight as long as it balances the rifle. That, to me, is more important. Switching from Tacops to Limited I noticed quite a difference in recoil just from taking my heavy Razor off and switching to a lightweight Spitfire. I added a PRS stock to add a little more weight back to the rifle, but the weight is against the shooter and I really like the way it handles. Your parts list looks like it should be a sweet machine. Enjoy!

  3. I haven't noticed it makes as much of a difference as it does in a handgun. Shooting form will mitigate more recoil in a rifle instead of chasing the "new shiny" when it comes to comps. The titan is a great comp and you won't be disappointed. Work on getting a solid foundation and shoot whatever load your rifle likes best.

  4. I had Briley install one of their front and rear sight sets on my m2.  The front sight is the same as many others except that it is dovetailed into the rib and can't come out.  I've had my front sight screw come loose on a stage and it was a big problem.  Their rear sight is really nice.  It's basically a rear sight milled in to the rib and is windage and elevation adjustable.  Check them out.

  5. I use a g-code and had to do a little modification to make it fit the wide dust cover on my Atlas.  I'm a big fan of the rti mount so I can remove the holster on stages where I don't need a handgun.  The hook on the g-code also pops down faster than the others that I've seen and the release seems to make more sense to me.  The lever gets pushed straight down instead of in towards the shooter like the others.  Evike.com has them in stock if you don't want to wait to have one built.

  6. Are you sure it's lead and not the plastic wad melting into the barrel?  Mine gets wad buildup because of the long strings of fire and how hot we get them.  Lucas Oil extreme duty bore solvent dissolves it better than anything else I've found.

  7. I got my first can this year and don't know why I waited so long to finally get one.  I went with a TBAC ultra 7 and couldn't be happier.  I use it on my 300wm, 6.5x284, 243 and .223 coyote rifles.  It's only 7 inches long and weighs only 9.5 oz.  It will be on my rifle for my muley hunt starting in 2 weeks.

  8. I use 69 smk over a stout load at 2911 avg and it works very well at distance. At major matches I also use 55 nosler ballistic tip for hoser ammo and will use it to 300 yards with confidence. People have asked why I shoot expensive bullets for hoser ammo but it is literally a $10 difference at a major match for piece of mind knowing I am running good ammo. I've spent more money on dumber ideas many times. 

  9. 36 minutes ago, timawa said:

    Is this somewhat like the Superlative Arms AGB where "bleed" the gas? Nice concept tho but I cannot afford it.

    It's not a bleeder type.  The set screw that shuts off the gas is below the opening in the gas tube.  All the others I've seen have the set screw actually go through the opening in tube.  Every time I have tried to replace the tube, the set screw through the hole has seized up and strips out.  With the screw below the tube, you don't have that same problem.  Although at around $50 for a gas block and $15 for a tube, I consider them a consumable item and don't have a problem just replacing them at the end of a shooting season.  It's no different then changing the oil in your vehicle. 

  10. I use WildEar hearing boosters for hunting and shooting. The master set that I have has 4 different "modes" to enhance different frequency levels. They are custom molded and have adjustable volume. The process is very simple to mold at home and then you send the molds into them and they make the ear pieces. Zach is a great guy to work with too.

  11. I have no irons in the fire here as I'm not shooting the match, but I will share my opinion. Transparency is key! You say you have a formula figured out that is fair. What's the formula? You want examples of how it cold benefit certain shooters. How about examples from you as to how it wont? The whole thing sounds a lot like the tv show "Who's Line Is It Anyway", "the show where everything's made up and the points don't matter".

    Why not 5 points per target? Certain targets can be worth increased points to keep people from shooting once and moving on (ie. Long range steel or spinner). Seems a lot more simplified than once everyone is done, we will hand out points and let the chips fall where they may......

  12. I just wanted to say thanks to Jay, Jomar, Chris, Ron, the RO's and everyone else involved in such an awesome match. You guys ran it like clockwork and the stages were awesome. Each stage seemed to have its own theme and the props, etc took a pretty straightforward stage and added a whole new twist. Excellent work!

    I'd also like to say thanks to the rest of my group on Squad 7. Everyone had a blast and Denise really kept us on our toes (while also providing the entertainment)

    I'd also like to say thank you to all of the great companies that sponsored the match, especially Nordic Components and Vortex Optics. The food and beverages provided Friday and Saturday night is such a great way to get everyone together and wind down after a hot day dragging tires around, running through the woods and trying not to shoot horses in the tail.

    Excellent job guys! I'll see you all next year!

    Brad

  13. Does g-code have retension?

    G-code has a spring loaded rotating hood. It will not work a LDC though

    If you have a heat gun, you can make it work. They mold it off a Tactical model which happens to be the only narrow full length dust cover. I love mine but it did take some work to reform it to fit the wide dust cover. To me, the hood drops in half the time of a wrs and that's why I went with g code.

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