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pisgahrifle

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Posts posted by pisgahrifle

  1. I'm very, very new to reloading, so I've been using two loads a friend of mine loads for me:

    Rainier 200 gr. RN- 4.2 Bullseye

    Valiant 200 gr. LSWC- 3.9 Bullseye.

    I like 'em both. Not to thread drift, but how do you know whether or not a powder burns fast or slow? Which category does Bullseye fall into? I have noticed that the 3.9 load tends to run cleaner in spite of following a lead bullet. We used to use the same lead bullet in front of 4.4 grains worth and it was dirty as homemade sin. Does that mean I'm not burning enough powder in the hotter loads and that all the fouling I'm getting is just unburnt powder?

  2. Jesus Titty-f*#king Christ, this is a thread about a magazine release button! <virtual bitch slap to pisgahrifle and to BritinUSA for taking the bait>

    Now back to your regularly-scheduled topic:

    Nice dubs, yo.

    Sorry. Him being a Brit and myself an academic, I suppose that we figured thread drift "up" (FDR) was OK. Furthermore, it was a JOKE. hence, the smiley. We were wrong. Do forgive us. This, however, is OK?

    "I was hoping to put some of dem' little lights on mine. Do da make dem in gold?"

    No wonder I couln't get friends in BSA to come shoot in college. I guess they were right about what to expect.

    "Please be polite. Or if not polite, at least respectful. Please – no antagonistic or quarrelsome tones. "

    Possesion of authority does not give one license.

  3. I know that talking politics is frowned on here, but I think this is getting to the point where you can't hide from it anymore. If California passes this law, practical shooting in CA is dead. I mean, how many folk are going to buy "CA legal" ammo to shoot, say, Steel Challenge? Think about it- anything you reload outside of CA for the Challenge would make you a criminal as soon as you crossed the border. All CADOJ would have to do would be to put an agent at the chrono. "May i see your ammunition Mr. Jarret (or Leatham, Or Sevigny, or Enos, or Miculek, or even Brown- i do have aspirations for rimfire, you know)? Uh huh, ah- i believe that your ammunition has no serial number stamping. I'm afraid your're going to have to come with me, and your firearms are now the property of the State of California. You have the right to remain silent..."

    Link to LA times article:

    http://www.latimes.com/news/local/la-me-le...ack=1&cset=true

  4. Whoa.

    When I first read this, I freaked out a bit. I bought two bricks of this stuff about a month agoon a $10 a brick deal, and so far I've shot nearly a brick's worth out of my .22/45. (as a note, i've had a FTF in almost every box. Woo-hoo Remington!) I had a brick of W-W T22 down before that and haven't cleaned it since. So i figure I'm not going to be able to drop a rod down the bbl., right?

    Wrong.

    I ran a rod through and it came out just fine. Then i put a light in the breech and checked the barrel- smooth as a baby's a$$. I'm by no means advocating this stuff- Rem. rimfire's always been rather inconsistent, I've thought, and doesn't shoot as well as W-W or Eley- but it didn't lead up my barrel. If nothing else this proves how inconsistent Rem. factory loads can be. Try it in another .22 and see what happens.

  5. I second the .22 brush. I do the ejector and fring pin ports at the same time, scrubbing them both after I let them soak in Kroil & #9 for a bit. Also make sure you're springs' good and clean before you put pin & spring back in the slide.

  6. Just for S&G I took my wife's little 3" GP-100 out to a club match last summer to make a second run with. I had found a box of old-school 158 JHP High-Vels and just HAD to give it a go. It was neat, but I'll never do a damn fool thing like that at an indoor match ever again! :wacko:

  7. Flex-

    I worked on that, and it does help imprint the drawstroke pretty well. Thanks.

    Flex's post is really the third of nine so far ---- just in case you're easily confused.....

    Uh, no, I'm not. I may be from the South, but I do have enough sense to come in out of the rain, thank you very much.

  8. I once shot at a club where they set up slug steels at 25-30 yards on out, and thought that folk way behind the line getting hit with splatter from shot was just an "acceptable hazard." I no longer shoot at that club.

    Coincedentally, they also had a reputation for setting their steel reeeeeal heavy, punishing the hell out of someone using lighter shot on shot steels inside of 15 yards. I shot one match with these folk and had two steels I just couldn't drop- both standard poppers at about 15 yards. After I finished my post-run tantrum, i noticed noone except the ROs that ran it with var-choked guns and goose shot really lit those poppers up. After the match a buddy of mine and I had at those two steels. On close inspection they were not only unpainted, but heavily cratered and rusty. Granted, I'm no expert in setting steel, but solid, consistent hits with full-jacket 185s doing 170 or dead on the paddle should put a popper down. I had to get up to about seven yards away 'fore I could make it drop. After it was mentioned to the MD, all we got was a shrug and a "oh, well. X managed to knock it down, I guess next time you'll use heavier shot." Needless to say there wasn't a next time.

    The bad thing about steel is that even though it's hella fun, I think you've really got to have someone who has RO'd it before and knows it's limitations. I think way to many people and clubs that really haven't had that much experience outside of a small circuit are buying steel (or building it) and running with it. I know I don't have enough experience setting it up on stages to be comfortable with it. I really enjoy shooting it, but nowadays I like to check out matches where I might be shooting steel ahead of time so I don't come up to a stage in the middle of a match and see that I've got to shoot a popper at 3 yards.

  9. OK, here's the deal.

    I'm in the process of changing from IDPa-CDP to USPSA-PSSD. I've been shooting from concealment for almost three years, and I'm realling starting to like going without. My problem, however, is thus: Even without concealment, I'm still making the concealment draw. It seems like moving my hand about three inches in front of the gun, then coming back and down on top of is the only way I can index my strong hand on the pistol just so. If I try to "scoop" the gun out of the holster, I just can't index my strong hand under the triggerguard right. I know that my current draw is going to cost me time eventually, so what do I do? Should I just concentrate on not going as far forward before coming back down atop the pistol, or should I start another kind of draw entirely?

    -PAB

  10. THREAD DRIFT!!!!!!!!!!

    Triumph, Spirit - whatever, who names a puppet dog after an under powered british car?
    You're insane. A buddy of mine had a '68 Triumph spitfire in high school. It was a freakin roller skate with a straight six attached! Like an early Z car, just much less safe- lighter and no real superstructure. We never maxed the hing out, yet two of us could pick up the rear end- of the whole car. Fast, scary, fun stuff that Spitfire.
  11. Uh, it'd be harder to get much lower than these carriers. They sure don't need to be cut down- if you did, the mags would probably fall out! Check them out on Hoffner's website. They're wicked-damn fast, too.

  12. I think it depends on the background. I've shot rifle matches on dingy, gray steel against grassy banks, as well as black in the late evening against dark green grass. Neither turned out so good. I'd say to have a number of colors on hand (maybe black, white and orange) and make your spot decision on what you can see best (unassisted!) against your backstops. I've never shot a rifle match assisted, so I know what a pain in the a$$ it is for the RO (who has a fixed six on his flattop) say, "oh, but I could see that gray US popper in the high grass just fine at 200 yards.

    Grumble.

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