cvincent
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Posts posted by cvincent
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Same. Don’t even case gauge. When I had hundreds and hundreds of rounds that didn’t pass the case gauge, then all but 1 worked in the gun, which had a visual defect. Stopped gauging. When I load mags at a match I’ll spin the round in the feed lips and look for defects. If none, it’s gtg.
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I’m kinda liking the 20 moa circle only on the 507 comp.
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I tried a few minor loads with 180s. Didn’t like the feel of it. I use 140gr acme at 126 ish PF. Shot out of a 2011, so dropped the recoil spring and hammer spring down. So much better than 180s at similar PF.
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1 hour ago, Racinready300ex said:
People I've talked to brake that index ring from time to time. Any trouble with that? How many rounds have you loaded.
I broke one when I first got it, while using the Swage-it. Never again since. 4 or 5 years ago maybe. But don’t use that swager anymore either. I Have replaced springs, the black case inserter thing, the case drop lever thing, primer wheel arm. Small stuff. Some of its processing brass. But close to 100,000 cycles on it for sure. -
The biggest thing is to get the press, and feeders running 100% before adding autodrive. Otherwise it will make the issues worse it seems. Then you may have to tweak it once automated. Keeping everything clean and lubed helps a lot. I’m on a mark7/650. Works amazingly. The machines integrated clutch sensors stop it, when there’s an issue. Just have to keep it as low as possible. Bullet senser stops from having a bin full of empty cases and powder everywhere. I made a primer wheel not rotating “sensor”. If I have a stoppage from the primer wheel from advancing, don’t have primerless ammo. Never any squibs or double charges. Pretty unlikely on a functioning 650 without user error. It’ll run .40 on 1200 rounds per hour forever. 9mm takes more effort to resize, so if I get a case with not enough lube it may stop the machine due to excessive force required to size it. Also have it setup to process .223 and 300blk. Brass. Convert 223 to 300blk brass. And load both of those.
tweaking required for sure, especially when setting up new calibers. But when it’s set, it’s pretty much good to go. It does seem to wear out parts quicker. Springs mostly. -
On 9/24/2022 at 10:22 AM, Cnickolas said:
Thank you for the input.
Can you still use the wobbly prep station?
I don’t believe it will be a major issue.
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On 9/16/2022 at 11:18 PM, Cnickolas said:
Appreciate it!
So, build quality seems pretty good. The torch holder has so much movement, you can position it anywhere really. But with the hose attached, it causes movement in the torch easily. Really have to crank down the wing nuts so it doesn’t move. Positioning on short cases is a little tricky, while trying not to melt the orings on the bottom wheel. I’m using it for 6mmBR. The prep station tools have a wobble, they don’t spin true. The wheel has a screw that activates the drop chute, with a tab on the chute. At low speeds this tab would stop the wheel from turning, because the chute hit its end stop. I had to file down the screw till it no longer maxed out the travel of the chute. That’s the worst part of the machine. Feel like that’s an important detail that was overlooked. After all that, ran 30 cases through and ran good. So far, I think I would buy it again. But I have no other annealing machine experience. So…
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No, but I have been looking at it for a week now and I just ordered one. Reviews everywhere seem good. I’ll let you know, when it shows up and set it up.
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I use this with the recommended router and the boring bar instead of the endmill.
https://fastandfriendlybrass.com/product/honey-badger-trimmer-adapter/https://fastandfriendlybrass.com/product/honey-badger-boring-bar-two-carbide-inserts/
dillion carbide trim dies. Use it on a mark 7 with a 650. You’ll need a short trim toolhead for 300blk. Also if converting 223 to 300blk in one stage all on the press, I would have a lot brass chip build up in the vacuum manifold and the vacuum hose. Ended up plumbing pvc pipe instead of the flexible vacuum hose. Less clogging. The boring bar helps to break up the chips, as an endmill seemed to produce long “strings” of brass that clogged everything up worse. If you can’t clear the chips from the cutting process the router overheats, clogs the die, trips circuit breakers, etc. clogging may be not as much an issue if your not automated, ie. slower feed rate. But I don’t know. Just trimming to length is not an issue. Very little brass shavings, obviously.
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According to my notes (haven’t loaded it in awhile) but my data is 11.2 grains 1680, at 2.089 oal. Avg velocity of 991. 220 grain coated lead bullet. Used to be leatherhead, now gallant bullets. Maybe double check your seating die. Doubt you are compressing the powder of your putting 11 ish grains in there.
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Txc holsters. Tier one concealed.
Or Trex arms. -
On 12/14/2021 at 7:15 PM, iflyskyhigh said:
Are you using a suppressor?
Either way H110 and and CFE Black are not the best powder for subs. Too fast.
You can read my whole stupid long post, but I’ll summarize in case you don’t have any too. You’re chasing your tail.
AA1680 is probably the best sub powder I’ve tried. It makes enough gas to cycle and lock even without me a suppressor on.
Next is IMR 4227. It’s quieter than 1680 in subs but it also doesn’t produce as much gas. Can’t run 4227 with MOST subs without the can. I’d still choose 1680 if given the choice.
1680 can also do supers pretty well, but again that’s where things like 396 and H110 shine. I use H110 for my 110/125 supers. I hunt coyotes with the 125gr Speer TNT HP’s in an 18” Wilson barreled AR 1-8 twist. Again 4227 will also do supers just not as fast. Fastest to slowest for supers is H110/AA1680/IMR4227. (You can use AA#9 too but it’s HOT, you’re gonna over pressure before max velocity)
I have an 8 pounder of Shooters World Blackout which is supposed to replicate 1680. Haven’t tried it yet. Let you know.
As far as bullet selection goes my personal experience is that coated lead and plated bullets at sub sonic velocities just don’t work that well no matter what you do. I wasted a ton of powder and bullets trying to make Gallant 225gr coated lead work. They work I guess but the accuracy past about 25-30 yards is crap. You can make a group at 40, but by 50 they are spraying all over the place. I bought about 4500 of them back when it was Firehouse or whatever it was before they sold out to Gallant.
I ended up just loading them up with a sub load of 4227 and using them for shooting steel in tacti-cool practice out of an 9.5” SBR (1-7 twist). I don’t use the can with the coated lead as they still muss up the can more than I’d prefer even though my can is user serviceable. They will cycle but won’t lock open last round. I’ve tried everything. Even run Bootleg BCG. Good enough for plinking. If I’d put a little more powder in I’d probably be past subsonic (which doesn’t matter with or without the can in this case) but they’d probably function a little better. Whatever. Good enough.
For true sub load I’ve discovered Nosler 190 CC are the bees knees. I stumbled on them by accident. I bought the 190’s for my long range 308 but couldn’t push em fast enough to make it work. Had these bullets lying around so I decided to try them in the 300 BO. Easy to make sub with either 4227 or 1680 (again 4427 wont cycle without can but I never intend to shot these without a can) and the accuracy is phenomenal even at 100. I can hit steel at 200 pretty easy but they don’t have much left by that distance. It’s basically a pistol weight projectile going pistol velocities. It’s a 45 auto with better ballistics.
I bought several thousand of the 190 CC in bulk for about what the Berrys cost I believe. If you look around you can find them (or at least you used to be able too) for about $.20/each give or take. Not cheap, but not expensive for a quality sub projectile.
Good luck. 300 BO sub guns are way too much fun.
Interesting.. all I’ve used so far is the leatherhead, before “gallant” coated bullets. With 1680 out of an 8” barrel, can plink USPSA head boxes at 200 with an Eotech, prone, all day. Just copied a load found in the interwebs, 10-11gr or so, not sure off the top of my head. No issues at all. -
Curious for any responses. I’ve been using coated lead with good results with 1680. Just got some berrys for free, haven’t loaded any though. Hope they work.
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I made the CR Speed versa pouches work. Remove the stock belt attachment and put one of those pronged t nuts on the back of the ELS fork(don’t think I had to drill the fork, but can’t remember) star lock washers between the fork and pouch. Rotate to your desired location and tighten it up. Works pretty good.
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The M die is really the way to go. You can try more flare with whatever you’re using right now.
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A few thou. Oversized is not uncommon for a coated lead bullet. It’s pretty typical. Are you using a M die, to expand and flare the case mouth?
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As far as I can tell just the rails. It’s based on gen 3. I used a gen 4 barrel ,trigger assembly, and all the slide parts had them laying around. Everything else was gen 3. Used a Brownells branded slide.
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I just built one a few weeks ago. You have to drill the holes straight, need a drill press or something to keep the drill 90 degrees to the frame or you will fight the pins. The rear rails don’t fit. I had to fit it to the frame, kinda a PIA. The whole thing had to drop lower in the frame to align with the pin hole. Had to piece out the lower parts kit, because no one had a kit in stock. Only have about 200 rounds through so far, but no malfunctions yet. Something is binding when I try to put the slide assembly on, not sure what it is yet, takes some wiggling and cussing to get it on, but once on, it’s fine. I would build another one. Actually I have another one, for a rainy day. Polymer 80 frames.
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https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=33_34&products_id=322
I bought it from ammo bot. It works good. It won’t detect the small steps cases though. Only the large steps like maxxtech (sp?)
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Did the new one solve your problem?
It did. The new one also measured .003” larger than mine.
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Cupcakes for ants?
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Same here wore one out couldn’t figure out what the hell was going on till I went to polish it again and saw the lip was gone. This dropper sounds promising
Same, i was getting shaved bullets all the sudden after tens of thousands of flawless rounds. The new funnel measured .003” larger than the one I wore out, and the lip was gone.
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it does stop the stickiness, just loaded 200 rounds yesterday of 40!!
How’s the bullet tamping compared to the DAA from the bullet dropper? Nice and tight?
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Hmmmm interesting. I’ll have to try one. Thanks for the post. I’m on my second DAA funnel, wore out the first one.
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Nine major out of a rifle?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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I’ve actually wanted to try AA1680 with 100gr bullet out of a PCC. See if it does anything. It’s a gassy powder for 300blk subs. 11gr will cycle an AR.