Kimbertarget

Hello, I saw a pic online of what looks like a MAGPUL ANGLED GRIP on a MAGPUL handguard but there is no rail and i never seen a part# for the angled grip that would attach to the MAGPUL handguard like the "VERTICAL GRIP" with the two tabs on top. What model or part# is this? Im beginning to think this guy who posted it on the M4 forum must have just laid it next to his M4. I hope im wrong i would like to attach an angled grip to my MAGPUL HANDGUARD without having to go with a rail system to keep it light as possible for USCA TWO-GUN Any help with a part number would be great,here is the mysterious pic :

Your friend being an A-CLASS competitor can shoot anything well. I have won production division with a bone stock compact GLOCK-19. Its the INDIAN not the arrow. when your talking about your average newbie 1911 buyer with a $1000 budget this looks like it would be a great 1911 by pure aesthetics alone but it isn't without issues. As for it just being me, how can a design flaw be my fault? I didn't make the magwell that doesn't allow positive engagement of some 10rd mags. If you do a simple youtube or google search of other DK owners I am not alone. my opinion has enough merit that my shop has loaned me this 1911 to see what I think of it. This is my view and you don't have to agree with it. this one is for sale so if you like it that much and it instills confidence in you PM me and im sure the owner will give you a great price on it. I was curious to see what others have said and my observations and experience was spot on to the other reviews ive read.you can literally hold it by the slide and shake it and it rattles, the cocking serrations are extremely smooth and I cannot see it being practical in a stressfire or competiton setting. I was considering buying this loaner for my misses but even she commented on the serrations being too close together and extremely smooth. the sights are good, but the lockup is subpar and it would need a quality barrel bushing for me to consider owning it and some lug work.even then the external extractor isn't my 1st choice. im going to shoot it again tomorrow and see how it runs with different mags and various ammo. here is a quick video at 10yards STEEL PLATE RACK 2nd time shooting(1 of my Chip Mccormicks 10rd mag with large baseplate failed to seat and wouldn't engage mag catch due to the magwell) w 230grain Federal-it takes me until :24sec to get cell camera set up

Hello, I found a handloader in toolbox. I own machinist tools,micrometer,dial/digital calipers "starrett", also a digital gram scale . What are all the seperate items i will need to safely reload my pistol brass (.38super/.45ACP/9mm) I would like to start with .45ACP. What are the most cost effective brands to purchase for me to be able to start reloading?

I have a DOUG KOENIG that was loaned to me to try out and now is turning into a possible sale but it needs to have some issues resolved before i would actually run it in a match. Whoe hear actually owns a S&W DOUG KOENIG model 1911? What problems have your encountered and how did the external extractor hold up after a a few thousand rounds and how did it function running and gunnin? He said if i dont want it for $1100 he will take it back and sell it on an auction site. What are they worht,i cant find them for sale anywhere with a current price?

What's a S.A.M. 1911? I've never heard that term before.S.A.M. SHOOTERS ARMS manufacturing has been making 1911s longer than ARMSCOR so i dont understand how you never heard of them. ARMCOR makes the STI SPARTAN(plus many other 1911s)and S.A.M. Makes alot of 1911s,one of which is the IVER JOHNSON EAGLE,HAWK 1911s.I consider a true 1911 to be made and assembled here in the U.S.A. However there are many philipino 1911s that people still think are made in the U.S.A. I consider the M.I.M.,philipino 1911s the low grade models, then production USA MADE, production semi-custom,then full house built/designed to order customs. Hope that cleared things up a bit. Back to the DOUG KOENIG 1911 i can see why they didnt increase in value and can be found for less than $1,000. This is oneof those 1911s that you want to like and have high hope for and it was a let down. They are a good looking 1911 but they are not tight at all and even if the external extracter is finally dialed in,im still a fan of the origional J.M.B. 1911 Im going to see if my shop will sponsor a different 1911 that ive never ran before. Any suggestions? I was thinking of that SIG max michel Or a similiar semi-custom and run a steel challenge match with it. I wish magazines actually competed with the models they test not just put them in a ransom rest and shoot expensive ammo to get these small groups to market them to the magazine buyers.

I never shot a 1911 with an external extractor.so i figure test one that is a production model that is a middle of the road 1911. Not a philipino S.A.M 1911 nor an STI/SVI etc.. Upon disengaging the safety i realized on my strong hand the AMBI safety on the right side digs into my index finger 1st knuckle joint. Then with quick mags changes sometimes they wouldnt seat unless you really waited for a positive engagment of the mag catch. The serrations front and rear on slide are so close they are actually smooth and provided NO grip and with sweaty hands i would have never been able to cycle it especially with the heavy recoil spring which feels heavier than 16lbs. The main spring housing checkering was nice and aggressive and wish it was the same in the front strap but nope it was just vertical serrations while are aesthetically easy on the eyes it provided no positive purchase. The slide and lockup didnt seem tight and you could wiggle the slide laterally. The fit and finish was ok,the beaver tail was on par with what a drop-in would look like on any 1911. The good: sights,undercut trigger guard for higher grip,magwell and decent trigger pull and a trick looking skeletonized trigger. I shot the steel plate rack and it pointed well and shot better than average. In all i wasnt impressed overall and was glad it was a loaner because if i shelled out the coin they go for i would have been unhappy with it.

Which frames are the most desirable for conversions:9mm,38super and .40cal?I really like the full dust cover model li ited and production II but are they worth the 2X price over the E.A.A. Witness models without the full length dust cover,ambi controls and front cocking serrations? In terms of accuracy for gaming are the $1,000 limited models that much better than the $550 Match witness models? I game production DIV with a GLOCK34 with ZEVTECH internals and single stack DIV with a customized COLT ENHANCED MODEL 1911. Im looking for a versatile platform that i can mod easily like the 1911 and since the CZ-75 frame is basically the 1911 of europe i thought the parts werent going to be so expensive. I hear the STOCK III trigger is better than the STOCK II and is basically what one PRO gamer uses. Are the E.A.A.'s just rebranded Tanfos or do they assemble them here in the USA? Thank you for info

Which frames are the most desirable for conversions:9mm,38super and .40cal? I really like the full dust cover model li ited and production II but are they worth the 2X price over the E.A.A. Witness models without the full length dust cover,ambi controls and front cocking serrations? In terms of accuracy for gaming are the $1,000 limited models that much better than the $550 Match witness models? I game production DIV with a GLOCK34 with ZEVTECH internals and single stack DIV with a customized COLT ENHANCED MODEL 1911. Im looking for a versatile platform that i can mod easily like the 1911 and since the CZ-75 frame is basically the 1911 of europe i thought the parts werent going to be so expensive. I hear the STOCK III trigger is better than the STOCK II and is basically what one PRO gamer uses. Are the E.A.A.'s just rebranded Tanfos or do they assemble them here in the USA? Thank you for info

Besides front cocking serrations and ambi safety is there any real difference in the quality of the frame,slide and barrel. The limiteds i see are going for $950-$1000 but the Witness models are half that price.was looking for another BOWLING PIN pistol and wanted to try a CZ-75 style pistol. Does anyone compete with a TANFOGLIO limited,production ii or witness? How is customer service,parts availability,ease of trigger jobs/barrel swaps to different calibers and customer service.

Hello, Ive been wanting a tanfoglio limited .45 with the full length dust cover for some time. I hear that customer service in the USA isnt great. How are parts availability and customer service if you wanted to run one in steel challenge? I dont want to invest $1000 and end up not being able to do a simple trigger job or have to wait for mag/mag parts etc. What has your experience been with TANFOGLIO stateside? Thank you

As a newbie and i was wondering how much per cartridge does it break down to using your own brass but buying :bullets,powder and primers for 9mm,.45cal,.40S&W ??

Hello, Im a newbie in regards to reloading. I recently got a case for free from a storage unit a buddy had filled with 9mm NATO(WSS) cartridges. I used the free ammo to compete in a steel challenge production division match and i WON. Now i dont know if there is an advantage but my pistol felt like it cycled better/smoother for some reason than thr usual walmart TULA 9mm ammo i usually run. My friend then said if i like the 9mm NATO i should try his .357sig and i shot extremely well even out to 25-30yards which made me a believer in the flatter trajectory hype. This being the 1st time i really noticed a difference in a cartridges and was curious about other cartridges/calibers that have either died off or not that widely used but claimed to have had advantages. If im going to reload what would be the best to start out with and why. Please leave your personal experience and not just something your quoting from online. Real experience with these rounds please..thank you in advance 1) .357 sig 2) .357 TSW 3) .38 super I would like to pick two calibers (MINOR and major) to compete with.

Hello, I got a great deal on an older BROWNING H.P. im considering purchasing since i would like to customize something different than my 1911s,CZ-75s etc. Ive never owned a B.H.P. before and i see that CYLINDER&SLIDE has a gorgeous mirror like ultra buffed ceramic coated finish. My question is what smiths do the best finish work on BHP? I seen one YOST did and it is beautiful but if i can find someone who wont have that long of a wait i would like to go that route, I would like the hammer and slide catch thats on this one...what is that finish?

Im going blue program as well,gunbroker is over retail $700 for the GLOCK-41. We dont have any down here in FLORIDA yet. Anyone have physically seen one in person yet locally?

MARK is a MASTER class shooter in CDP. Just out of curiosity what class and division you run? This is exactly what i mean. Also who is ragging on brands,i currently own/owned other 1911 semi/full customs and wanted to try something different. STI or SV,only fanboys get defensive when they realize that your pistol doesnt need to cost $6k to be reliable as a gaming tool. Im picking up an STI,but i will finish 2014 season in steel challenge and USPSA in frostproof coming up with my COLT. Thank you for your opinions.

Ok, can you get the hard chrome in a MATTE finish or black chrome? I live in florida and want to keep the glare to a minimum hence my flat top slide and serrations. Also who do you guys recommend for me to send my 1911 to for the hard chrome and how much did you pay?

Agreed..im going to pick up a G41 for steel challenge and bowling pin matches. As for the .380 meh, its cool for A .380, because there are only a few reliable quakity .380s (SIG/KAHR) so for Glock to throw the 42 in the US market is a smart move due to brand recognition. Some females have never heard of SIG ot others,but even my grandmother knows the name GLOCK from the 1980s propaganda on how these "ceramic pistols" were going to get through metal detectors..lmao. So i know GLOCK will do extremely well in the E.D.C. And female market with the .380.In regards to new GLOCKS why havent they offered a custom shop service to get rid of those aweful finger grooves and have the rail as an option? You would think with all the aftermarket doing mods,glock would just offer them since they are cost effective and provide options for prospective buyers. That is all the GLOCK 41/42 are,OPTIONs to diversify for a larger market share to both extreme sides of the firearms market. A production legal MAJOR GLOCK-41 and a small E.D.C. Ultra compact .380. I think it makes perfect sense capping off both extremes. Since i doubt they will make a 10mm 6" HUNTER or a derringer style .22/.25 A carbine would be a cool next level step for glock or perhaps a .22. My .02 Hey did anyone see on gunbroker the GEN-1 GLOCKS are going for more than GEN3/4s so they have a cult/collector following already which means no matter what they build as long as it has GLOCK on the slide it will sell. I cant believe that 1st year GLOCK GEN 1 just went for almost $1000 on gunbroker! Maybe ill hold onto these like my 1911s after all

I dont understand why anyone would send out a Glock for trigger work. A zev tech skeletonized connector and $28 spring kit with flitz polish/chamfer edges i got an average 3.8lb trigger w crisp reset. Won production div in steel challenge with it and no light primer strikes with their spring kit. I do the work for FREE locally for my practical buddies. It was much easier for the misses to double tap after removing the factory 5.5lb(6lb)

It isnt the dremel that im concerned with its the stipling the smooth surface after.i cannot stand the feel nor the aesthetics of the soldering iron stipling of Glocks. I much rather have it molded from factory. Finger grooves most practical competitors remove so why doesnt glock take the hint and go back to the GEN-1 style just for the practical 34-35-41 with some plastic checkering already molded in. If there was a process to heat and roll checkering into the plastic i would opt for that vs the ugly stippling

GLOCK-40 is .22cal so a G-22 is a .40 J.K.No G40 as to not confuse caliber with model nomenclature. As for a 10mm hunter longslide, that would be a great "BOWLING PIN MATCH" pistol too! They should offer the G41 without finger grooves option and undercut "notch" that trigger guard from the factory finally.

Ive always owned gen-3 GLOCKs and recently bought a GEN-1 GLOCK-17 and the feel of your purchase on the grips is awesome. I always wanted to take a dremel to my finger grooves on my glock34 gen-3 but its brand new and didnt want to mess with the frame. The finger groove rests under my knuckle and is painfull for my arthritis. Why doesnt Glock make an option for non-rail (for practical pistols,34-35-41) with no finger grooves? Does anyone here own a GEN-1 and like the feel of it better? Im going to build this as a Steel Challenge pistol and was wondering if anyone competes with a GEN-1? I see there are a few for sale on gunbroker and the prices have been going up lately especially if they have the old school factory Glock case or night sights. The GEN-1 appear to be collectable now when did this happen?

Its not the arrow its the indian. But i would like the straightest arrow for the value. Ive met someone on here locally and im willing to let anyone try my colt against a baer,brown of same caliber. Ive owned other semi and full house customs and most nowadays are not worth the money if its not an S.T.I. OR S.V. Even then ive seen $4k open div pistols have failures. An accurized series 70 or modded series80(block plate) with quality bushing ,tight lockup and trigger work is the small block chevy of 1911s. People just follow the heard because they hear it works for the majority so they dont try using what they have.i want to run something different and now i think i will stick with a custom COLT.. Also regards to those who say COLTs suck. http://www.coltsmfg.com/ColtintheMedia/PressReleases/tabid/252/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/46/COLT-SPONSORED-SHOOTER-MARK-REDL-SEEKS-USPSA-MASTER-CLASSIFICATION.aspx Tell that to: __________________ MARK REDL TEAM EOTAC COLT FIREARMS

If you're buying gun parts off of e-bay, you're asking for trouble. I'm guessing you've figured that out by now. Its some guy who is selling "gunsmith estate sale lot" of wilson,brown and infinity parts", that thread with the old school wilson combat sights was one of the items i got and it was authentic as wel as an ed brown bushing. I only paid $10 for some good stuff, unfortunately the sear either wasnt tool steel or in wrong package. He has a current auction with alot of nice combat hammers and MSH's ,old colt walnut grips etc. for cheap..you know how it is you can never have too many spare small parts or mags or cartridges. But yes no more putting them in my gaming 1911 ;(

That is the conclusion ive come to hence me trying to find a coating that i havent already tried. Im surprised nobody has used a MOLYBDENUM coating, since its durable enough for pistons in a combustion engine and it has antifriction properties to keep it from premature wear. I was thinking of having my buddies hot rod shop do a slide on one of my glocks before i do oneof my 1911s and see how it holds up. Im going to check into aviation industries coatings,kydex will be defeated this year.im going to find something and ill report back.if not ill gladly take the "i told you so's";) However is the NIGHTHAWK treatment better than whats out there? Name your top three most durable 1911 finishes that youve owned that stood up to kydex,what make and model. Thank you

there are some Ti or Sc frame pistols that can easily make weight with tungsten,but i was actually wanting to put it on my misses KIMBER POLY TARGET .45. I appreciate the responses, to OAKHILL (you in OAKHILL FLORIDA??), i run a wilson shock buff and had no issues so far with 16# but a gunsmith locally says it causes spring issues andi should get rid of it. I take it with a grain of salt because he doesnt like F.L.G.R. Or anything useful for gaming. But is there a way to test and see if the spring binds when using a shock buffer? I would imagine that every coil is not going to be compressed to make a rigid structure when using one thin shock buffer,but correct me if he is right.