SWHlctx
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Posts posted by SWHlctx
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On 11/2/2016 at 11:22 AM, fireman1776 said:
How does this work with aftermarket triggers? Does it closely mimic them or a factory Glock?
When I ordered mine they sent an email before shipping asking what kind of trigger I have and pull weight. I have a DK Custom trigger and the pull weight is about 3Lb. The Dry Fire mag is pretty close on the pull weight and works good. Obviously, it doesn't replicate live fire.
I think it may be more physiological help than anything else. You feel the trigger pull and hear the reset click. So, it makes dry fire a little more interesting. If you're practicing transitions it is more fun to at least pull the trigger and hear it reset than saying "bang, bang, bang" in your mind with a dead trigger.
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Well, after reading the thread I just had to have one. Ordered it the other day and got a nice email back today asking what kind of trigger I have, pull weight, etc. Looking forward to putting it to work.
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I went with a KKM barrel in my G34. I don't know if it is the barrel or not, and I don't have any empirical data, but I can make 15 yard headshots no problem. Well, I have to be paying attention and then it is no problem. That said, I have a G17 with a stock barrel that is very accurate.
I generally go with the theory it is the Indian and not the arrow. At least in my case.I had a chance to watch Bob Vogel shoot his old beat up Glock 34 and he seemed to be doing pretty well with it.
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Sorry, I was out of town all week on business and didn't get a chance to post the latest. I took Stuart's advice and disassembled the gun this morning. It was a little scary, but thanks to YouTube university, it went better than I thought it would. The weird part is I couldn't find anything wrong with it, nothing out of place, nothing broken, just nothing. So I cleaned it up good, lightly oiled and reassembled it.
I had some parts from CZC I wanted to put in it, so I got that done too. It is running fine and no problems. I don't what I did to fix it, but I've dry fired about 100 times without a problem. I'll take it to the range tomorrow to see how it goes with live fire.
I appreciate everyone's input and advice.
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7 minutes ago, slavex said:
time to pop the searcage and see what you can see in there. maybe the decocker has something going on that I'm unfamiliar with. I only see a couple of those a year, if that.
I was hoping to avoid taking it apart, but I think you are right. Sounds like a good project for the weekend (not sure which weekend, lol).
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1 hour ago, eerw said:
It is the pin that holds the disconnector in the hammer. If the pin is not staked or fit super tight it can move and then block movement as it tries to move in the frame.
Have seen this happen on a few occasions,.
Stuart, would I be able to see this looking at the underside of the hammer (up through the gun) or is this something I'd have to disassemble the gun to see?
I agree, it has to be something like what you are suggesting. The hammer is stuck in the decocked position and will only move about 1/8" back so something is stopping it. It won't go forward at all.
I'm at the point now that I have to leave it alone for awhile because I'm about ready to chunk it out in the back yard.
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1 hour ago, slavex said:
He might be referring to the pin that holds the disco onto the hammer, but I've never seen one of those walk and interfere. I use the Cajun hardened pins and don't stake them, never had an issue.
Silly question, is the spring over the hammer strut? I've seen people jam that together before, completely missing the strut
Yes, sir, everything was correct with the install. I've installed a hammer spring in my Shadow 3 or 4 times and never had a problem.
I've learned there are no silly questions when it comes to working on a gun. I've done some really dopey things. Not long ago I did some work on my Glock 34 and was in a hurry to get it back together. When I got finished I put the slide on and the damn thing wouldn't cock with the slide. I looked the work bench and the barrel and recoil spring were laying there.
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19 hours ago, eerw said:
My best guess is when disconnector was changed the #9 pin was not staked.
Have seen in some cases the pin will move, and block the hammer from moving.
Which is the #9 pin? I have an exploded diagram of a CZ and the only pins that look like they could cause the problem is the hammer pin and the hammer pin retaining peg.
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1 hour ago, eerw said:
Has anything ever been changed? New hammer? New disconnector?
About everything. Bought all the parts from CGW to do the upgrades recommended and had a CZ gunsmith polish everything and put the parts in. I have changed the hammer spring 2 other times and didn't have a problem. I didn't touch anything in the frame, so I can't explain it. Should be able to drop the hammer spring out and replace it without any issues.
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3 hours ago, rowdyb said:
there is a difference yes, but i think you'll find it tolerable.
Yep, I put the 11.5# on my Shadow and went to the range to try it out. After a hundred or so rounds I didn't notice the difference. Went through 200 rounds with no light strikes.
Thanks.
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36 minutes ago, eerw said:
So the hammer is stuck at decocked position? Slide is not on?
Mag brake is in place ?
If the mainspring , mag brake and pin is out. Will the hammer move back? Or still stuck?
I can't get the hammer to move no matter what. Everything went back together just fine and I've taken it apart and back together 4 times. Still the same. I've tried putting the slide on to see if it would help, but the slide won't go past the decocked hammer position.
Baffling problem.
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On 9/3/2016 at 0:30 PM, ARy said:
Pick-up a CZC FP and I guarantee you won't have this issue. You could always take one of the FP's you already have and use a round file to extend the channel (iirc I listed what the measurements were in an earlier post). People will blame this and blame that, primer depth this and primer depth that; but again, put a CZC FP in and you'll be at 100% ignition.
I've got a CZC SP01 Shadow 2014 customized by CZC and a CZ SP01 Tactical with CGW upgrades which were installed by a CZ smith. The internal upgrades are pretty much a match and I get light strikes on both of them. If the CZC extended firing pin will fix a light strike problem, why do I have them with my CZC Shadow?
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42 minutes ago, B_RAD said:
Take the mag brake and HS back out. Put them back in. I'd try to make sure the hammer is down. Very weird. Maybe you weren't holding your mouth right?
Tried that 3 times. No go. I put the slide on thinking maybe I just need to rack with the slide. Nope. Hammer is still stuck about half cocked. It is something about the decocker I haven't figured out yet.
What is really frustrating is I have SP01 Shadow that I was getting light strikes with also, so I put the 11.5# hammer spring on it. It took me about 2 minutes start to finish.
This is why people go back to Glocks!
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40 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:
You've got me stumped, maybe an issue with the mag brake, I suggest taking it apart and trying again. Have you looked at the pictures in this thread?
Yep, sure did. I went over the whole thread hoping I would see something, but didn't. I'm going to set it aside for today and try again tomorrow.
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11 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:
So you didn't mess with the sear cage or the decocker? Just the grips, mag brake and spring plug?
That's correct. All I did was take the slide off, removed the grips, took off the hammer spring lanyard plug, took off the 8.5# hammer spring, put the 11.5# on and then reversed the procedure. I didn't fool with anything in the frame. I'm not sure, but I think I should have cocked the hammer fully back before I started, but I can't see how that would affect anything I did.
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On 9/30/2016 at 8:25 AM, eerw said:
Use the 2075 rami fp spring.
And yes on the other parts
Thank you. I got the parts ordered.
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I've got a CZ 75 SP01 Tactical (decocker) model. I decided to replace the 8.5# hammer spring with an 11.5# because of light strikes. I thought it should be a pretty simple project. I've worked on my SP01 Shadow a little (replaced the safety lever) and didn't have any problems (even after all the little parts and springs went zooming all over the workbench), I managed to get it back together and go bang. But, I've never worked on the Tactical, so I must be missing something.
So, this morning I put the 11.5# spring in and after I got the gun back together I now can't get it to cock or pull the trigger. The hammer is on the decocked position.
I'm sure I'm missing some simple little step, but damned if I figure out what it is. I've watched every YouTube vid related to CZ assembly and disassembly and did see anything that would help.
Any ideas or guidance would be appreciated.
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On 9/9/2016 at 10:59 PM, ChuckS said:
check out Appendix D7 21.3 ...
Chuck S, you remind me of my brother. He always forced me to read the damn rule book too, lol. Thanks.
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On 11/5/2015 at 9:18 AM, Yeti said:
True. Clays makes a darn nice 40 Minor load too. Soft shooting...especially with 180's.
Hi-Tek coated can work fine in your factory barrel, Andy.
Jacketed is often the easiest to start with for new reloaders and can present less complications. Keep it simple at first, especially for competitions, until you get some more reloading experience under your belt.
You asked for a few suggestions specifically used in a G35, but there are numerous options out there...including coated.
I've got about 10 pounds of Clays I'd like to put to use. I usually load at an OAL of 1.13 because my G35 doesn't seem to like anything much longer. But, I've seen some posts about not using Clays in shorter loads. Do you think the Clays would be OK in a 1.13 OAL and 180g load?
Another one... what load should I start with using Bayou coated 180g?
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4 hours ago, cjfung10 said:
I'm not Rowdy but have had experience with both springs. There is a difference if you're at home on your work bench tinkering and doing slow DA pulls. You'll be a little lighter with your DA and a only slightly lighter in your SA. But at speed, I would say no. A smooth trigger (by polishing the internals) makes a much bigger difference in the overall feel than going from an 11# to 8.5# main spring.
If it were me, I'd make sure the gun runs 100% with 11# (because it should with all the goodies/polishing), then if it does, repeat with 8.5#.
Thank you for the information. I have the 11.5# spring sitting on my workbench, but trigger is so nice I hate to screw with it. That said, I need reliability. Not much fun starting every stage with a "no bang". I ordered the CZC firing pin and spring and will give that a try when I get it.
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I want to change out the firing pin on my CZ 75 SP01 Tactical with a CZC extended firing pin. The Tactical has the roll pin retainer.
From the CZC website is this extended firing pin I need to order? CZ 75B Extended Firing Pin SKU# 10105.
At the same time I want to put the solid retaining pin. Is this what I need to order? CZ75B SOLID Firing Pin Retaing Pin SKU# 10245
One more while I'm at it - Will the CGW firing pin spring work OK with the CZC extended firing pin?
Thanks in advance.
SWH
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I ended up getting a KKM 40 to 9 barrel. I have KKM on a couple of my other guns. The first thing I noticed is the weight difference with conversion barrel. It is about half again thicker then the OEM barrel. Shot a couple of hundred rounds out of the 35 with conversation barrel with no problems.
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On 3/17/2016 at 5:45 PM, rowdyb said:
If I had a gun getting light strikes I would
1. check my brand of primer. check the depth of seating of primer. these presume reloading.
2. increase main spring from a cgw 8.5 or 11.5# to any maker's brand of 13# spring.
Assuming you don't have something else odd going on, these two steps have fixed every issue of CZ light strikes for me. ( you have a lot of moving parts and updated parts, so there is a certain level of complexity in looking at how they all work together to get the result you want of a bang for every trigger pull for the ammo you use.)
Rowdy, I have been getting light strikes with my SP01 Tactical. Sounds like the same problem the OP stated. I have the 8.5 hammer spring in the gun and a 11.5# sitting here. I know this is a subjective question, but in your opinion is there really much difference in the feel on the first shot when decocked between the 8.5 and 11.5? I could just put it in and see for myself, but I'm really lazy today.
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I don't know if Freedom still sells it, but before I started reloading I used a 147g 9mm called HUSH. Softer shooting than their standard 147. It made PF.
DK Triggers?
in Glock
Posted
I've got 6 DK triggers. I have 4 competiton kit triggers and 2 defensive kit triggers. I've shot thousands of rounds in competition with the DK trigger and never once had an issue with any of them. In my opinion they are the best trigger on the market.
I should be on a commission basis. I know 3 people that have bought one from him based on trying out my G34 with the competiton kit trigger.
I'm just waiting on the Get 5 version to install in a new G17 Gen 5. If Dan would quit screwing around working another job, I'd probably have one by now, lol.