datsthat
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Posts posted by datsthat
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Dusty,
Thank you for the nice pics.
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You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel.
If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident.
I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone.
Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker?
try taking the striker block plunger out completely and see if you are still getting light strikes......if it works fine without stiker block plunger then you have another method of confirmed what cha lee is saying.
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Bill S,
I feel your pain as my M&P 9 FS (FSS Kit w/ factory ammo) used to suffer from light strikes. I was able to fix it by using a glock 7lb striker spring. For me the 7# spring ignited any primer I tried out. SSS & Wolfe extra power striker spring was not strong enough, it worked most of the time using Federal. PM me if you want me to send you a free 6.5# Glock striker spring. Can you expain how Dan modified your striker? Pics?
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The only xtra power springs I can find are all 6lb. ones. Were did you get yours, and did it affect trigger pull wt. at all?
FYI - I noticed that it is easier to find glock springs than M&P springs....Howwever they work fine for me atleast. PM me and I will gladly send you 2 Ghost 6.5lb Glock striker spring for free
or you can find them youself at these locations.- 7lb spring @ Rockyourgock
- 6lb spring @ Ghost Inc
- 6.5lb spring @ Ghost Inc
- 6.5lb spring @ Wolffe
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I used to suffer from light strikes (M&P fullsize w/ FSS kit) using factory ammo. Try using extra power striker spring...I am using a 7lb glock striker spring and this was the only that I was able to fix the light strikes.
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Best wat to solve this issue, sell me you lightened slide and get you a stock one.
Just Saying
Ken,
Funny you said that b/c I did purchase another stripped slide with the intentions of replacing as a fix and it just arrived
. I am sure you can fit different optic but you may need to do some minor machinining or you buy my stripped slide + MRDS & shroud. PM me if you are serious.
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Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger?
I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month.
Wow! I'm surprised this even stays in battery. Mine is set up with competition striker spring and 13 lb recoil spring. I've never tried an 11 lb one, but might have to try it.
It doesn't stay in battery w/ much force. It seems like I can stare at it and it will slightly move out of battery. I will change to either a 13 or 15ib recoil spring.....it all depends on which is more reliable. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the felt recoil with a 11lb spring.
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Try Speed Shooter Specialties.
Thanks for your reply but speedshooters are out of stock w/ no certain ETA.
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Doesn't that 7lb spring make for a heavy trigger?
I am sure it does increase slightly, but I didn't even notice the extra weight b/c I was so happy that it went "bang". Currently I have a factory trigger spring, FSS sear spring, 11lb recoil spring & 7lb striker spring. I may change to a heavier recoil spring if I run into any issues. I'll be shoooting many rounds soon as I have a class near end of this month.
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Wow, the 7lb striker spring did the trick. I shot 250 sucessfull rounds (washougal). Now I have a spare new stripped slide (purchased to fix light strikes). I have not been this happy since the day I got my machined slide in the mail
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Just received my new pro back from Dan Burwell, and I absolutely love the work he did. It's sitting at about 3.5#, has an excellent reset and shorter pre travel with his welded over travel stop in the frame. Nothing externally visible and it's a fantastic feel. Highly recommend!
wow, was it hard getting ahold of Dan? Would you mind taking some pics of the mods that he put in place?
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Does anybody have an extra one? I will gladly buy it from you or if you can loan me one until I get mine from Midway which I backordered. Midway said it should arrive on Jan 27th but I need it sooner for a class on jan 25th.
Thanks you in advance for your time and help
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Thanks avedis.
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What does the new style look like? Pic?
Thanks
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So it's ok to use the extra power with 17rd mag?
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Update: No light strikes issues with the following factory ammo: Federal, Fiocci, Freedom Munitions & Blaser.
Update: Light strikes are back. I think I don't think they were ever fixed. Just purcahsed a new stripped slide (thanks crossgun). I will install the parts from my current slide into new slide to hopefuly issolate the root cause. While I am waiting for my new slide, I purchased a 31 Netwon/7lb extra power striker spring from rockyourgock. This is my last attempt. If this doesn't help or fix it, then its off to apex
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I need to replace my mag spring (M&P 9mm 17 rds) and can't find any in stock anywhere. Does anybody know if there are any other springs that is compatiable? Maybe a glock mag spring?
Thanks
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Does anybody have any experience with Dawson Charger Rear Sights? Are they good for competition? The reason why I ask is b/c I just purchased a stripped slide. If not, any suggestions?
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I know this is old thread but can you or somebody show pics of what you welded?This is what I have in mine. FSS with the stock trigger and the sear block tig welded to reduce the overtravel. My camera is a little old and does not like close ups.
Pic 1 full extension
Pic 2 pre travel take up
Pic 3 trigger against trigger stop after break
http://www.kycarry.citymax.com/i/MP40/tn_HPIM5176.JPG
http://www.kycarry.citymax.com/i/MP40/tn_HPIM5177.JPG
http://www.kycarry.citymax.com/i/MP40/tn_HPIM5178.JPG
This setup shortens pre travel and after travel and gives a longer trigger reach an dis the closest thing I have tried in a plastic pistol to the 1911 trigger.
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One thing to note when playing with the "shepards hook". My first instinct was to make the trigger release early as possible, but that did not give enough trigger bar movement to get the striker block out of the way. I found that the best way is to get the striker to release at the very last of the pull.
This prevents the light strikes, and has almost no post travel.
FYI: The sear does NOT go parallel with the block plane or else the striker lug would ride across the top of the sear. No bueno. Also, I have the RAM in it and no problems. Reset is loud and crisp. (Mid '13 CORE 9L).
To get the srriker to release near the end of the trigger pull.....would you open or close the loop?
I figure the more you close the loop, striker would drop nearer to the end of trigger pull, causing longer pretravel and shorter overtravel.
The more you open the loop, the striker would drop closer to the beginning of the trigger pull, causing shorter pretravel and longer overtravel.
Am I wrong?
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I hate to take this stance, but modifying firearms is not like snapping Lego pieces together where no matter what parts you "Snap Together" they should magically work. When modifying firearms you need to have a solid understanding of how it functions and the ability to troubleshoot issues when it does not work. If you lack functional or troubleshooting skills on your firearm then you should leave the modifying to someone who does have those skills. The internet forum "Help me out" pleads do not count either.
If you want to learn how to do this stuff on your own, then you are in for a lot of trial and error, frustration, and wasted Time + Money. Alternately you could take some armorer courses for your specific firearm or gunsmithing classes.
People need to put modifying guns into perspective to pretty much everything else in life. For example, if you swapped the Transmission, Engine and then added a lift kit to your truck all by yourself the chances of that ending up functionally correct are not very probable. This is especially true if you are not already a mechanic and have at least a basic understanding of wrenching on a vehicle. Working on guns is really not much different than working on cars. You need to know what you are doing or you can't expect to produce a good result.
Thank you for chimming in Cha-lee. I have read a lot of your threads and value your feedback along with a lot of other members here.
I have to somewhat disagree with you. I have never taken any formal training on the art of gunsmithing. However, I am confident in my troubleshooting skills to get the job done. The only time I have ever had to send anything off was b/c I didn't have the resources to do it myself such as light strike issues and trimming the beaver tail down. I have learned more about M&Ps, glocks, ARs, AKs, bolt & semi-auto rifle by literally getting my hands dirtly. Yes, the downside is a lot of time and money, but the rewards of solving an issue is worth it to me.
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Update: No light strikes issues with the following factory ammo: Federal, Fiocci, Freedom Munitions & Blaser.
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How often are you getting light strikes? Try federal ammo. I wish I tried it sooner. That's all I will shoot going forward.I pulled my firing pin (I didnt know how easy it was to remove), and there are no signs at all of peening or anything rubbing. I think I just did too many changes at once and everythong needed to settle. It was the FSS, lighter slide spring, and slide was just ceracoated.
Fyi with federal, I had to no problem using 11# recoil spring & reduce powered striker spring
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Wonderful News. I finally was able to fire all 17 rounds without any issues with the combination of Federal Ammo and modified the striker channel liner. I was still getting light strikes using Blaser with the modified striker channel liner, but it was GREATLY reduced (couple out of 17rds).
(1 box of 50rds of Federal Target Ammo (white box) costed me $19.77 (including tax) at the range (notorious for ripping people off) that I have a membership at. (I am stuck there b/c I purcahsesd a lifetime membership way back in the early 90s))
Thank you again to all who helped me troubleshoot.
Now I need to start re-loading.
or you can find them youself at these locations.
Are there ever going to be strikers in stock?
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
I know this doesn't help, but Speed Shooters had it instock about couple weeks ago. I