fastlane604

Has anyone tried the EGW premium magwell/mainspring housing? It is the one with the clip that attaches the magwell to the mainspring housing rather than bolting it on. It appears to be a stronger and more secure method than the bolt. Just wondering how it works in practice.

I know this topic has been discussed before but the previous discussions I've seen center around polymer vs steel and personal feel in the hand. I am interested in accuracy and recoil. For you who own both, how do they compare?

11.5 # hammer spring, cgw extended firing pin and lightened firing pin spring on both 75 Shadow and SP-01. No light strikes with Winchester primers.

Maybe I'm a clutz but I have the tool and I like it.

Nice job of cleaning it up.

I have a 75 Shadow and a Cajunized SP-01. If I could only keep one, it would be the SP-01. My double taps are quicker with the full dust cover. It may be that better shooters can control the muzzle flip on their 75s better than I and thus take advantage of the faster transitions of the lighter gun. I am not to that point.

What caliber do you reload? I reload 9mm. Why do you like Autocomp or CFE better?

Are you able to get any w231/hp-38? I've been able to buy Titegroup lately and keep it in reserve in case I can't find any w231. However, w231 is my first choice. I've been looking for several months without success. Am I looking in the wrong places or is it just not available?

I've done plunk tests with Berry's 124 HBRN out to 1.19 in my 75 Shadow. I've loaded them out to 1.15 without any problem.

Thanks, Chuck.

With the M&P base plate, is it flush with the base of the magwell when inserted or do you have to shove the base of the mag past the base of the magwell? Thanks, Chuck.

Chuck, Wouldn't the mags be too short with only the M&P baseplates?

Tristar C-100. CZ PCR clone.

Not sandbagging.

From the 16 yard line mod should be fine. If you shoot quickly, even light mod will work. If you let the bird get too far away it begins to fall and it is hard to hit, even with a tighter choke.

Beretta 391 with the parallel target stock. Extremely reliable guns without o rings to worry about. PT stock gets your point of impact up high enough to handle rising targets, well. If you want to spend a little more have the stock cut to make the comb adjustable. With the adjustable comb you can fit the gun to you.

I've been looking for w231 (or HP-38) for months without success. I have managed to score a couple pounds of Titegroup lately.

Very nice.

I have a 75 Shadow and an SP-01 that has been cajunized. There is a little creep with the 75 Shadow's trigger. No creep with the cajunized SP-01. Both are excellent guns and differences are splitting hairs. Mostly, the SP-01 has a little less felt recoil. If you have both Shadows available to you and can only get one, I'd probably go with the SP-01 Shadow and then give it a little trigger TLC.

Sorry, left out oal on 125. 1.465.

I lube 9mm every 5 cases, or so. I put a little synthetic motor oil on a folded up paper towel laying on top of a small Tupperware lid. Roll the case over it. It works very well for me. I have used this method for thousands of rounds.

I have a Pro Chrono that I use for shotgun loads and handgun loads. I'm very satisfied with it.

I have loaded Zero 125 jhp with 5.2 grains of W231 and gotten an avg of 889 fps from a 4" gp100 and 947 fps from a 6" gp100. From hodgdon.com, 158 gr Hornady XTP 3.8 gr w231 for 661 and 4.3 gr for 779 at 1.455 oal.

The best thing for high blood pressure is pulling a trigger, whether it is at steel, paper or a clay target.

Here is how I lower the hammer. Pinch the tang of the hammer with the thumb and forefinger of your weak hand. If right handed, you reach across the back strap with your thumb closest to your body and your forefinger away from your body. Back of left hand pointing toward the muzzle. Pinch the hammer firmly and pull the trigger lowering the hammer. I've tried the thumb roll method but pinching works best for me. An extended mag release is also helpful, as well as, better sights.