FinishGuy

I should have probably explained I'm planning on taking a 9mm STI 2011 and converting to a 9mm Open gun. The 2011 has a bushing barrel so I was hoping to use the existing barrel. So.....there in lies my question, which type of comp that would work with that configuration. Thanks to everyone for your replies.

I am considering building a 9mm major open gun with a 2011 platform. Thinking of using a threaded barrel. Looking for some opinions for a comp.

Thanks for the help everyone. Ordered one today!

I recently put a PT Evo grip on my 2011. I reused my mag relase from my previous grip which was a STI polymer grip. When I installed my mag release button it hits on the frame. It also is recessed in the grip on the opposite side of the release button quite a bit more than when installed in the stock grip. Anyone out there have a reccomendation? It there a longer mag release?

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I am trying a 12lb spring with Dawson aluminum shok buff. Will see how it goes!

I am guessing you both are loading to Major?

I am contemplating changing stock recoil spring in my 40 DVC to a 13lb spring. Should I use a Shok Buff?

Thanks for the input everyone.

Thanks for the advice Eric.

I have a STI Eagle in 9mm that I bought a few years ago. I recently purchased a DVC Limited in 40 to compete in USPSA Limited division so I am not using this gun. I would like to start shooting in open division and am considering turning the Eagle into a 9 mm major open gun. Does anyone out there have some experience or advice?

I am considering using Bayou Bullets in an open gun. Does anyone have any experience they could pass along? Thank you!

I recently purchased a Extreme Shooters grip for my STI Eagle. After installing the grip my 140mm mags began to hang up when releasing them. They do not consistently hang up and one seems to more than the other two. I have a 126mm that drops every time. When comparing the 140's and the 126 by eye the are very similar. The only big difference I can see it the notch where the mag catch engages. it is a little bit taller and quite a bit wider than the 140's. When I compared my magazines with another shooters they had the identical size notches. The 140's being shorter and narrower than the 126. When I took off the slide I could see where the mag was bumping the side of the slide and possibly causing the mag to hang up. Could it be possible that the mag release is in a slightly different location than my original grip causing the magazine to be a bit higher? Anyone with any insight would be much appreciated. By the way, the grip is AWESOME!

I have been shooting an STI Eagle for some time now. I have been taught when drawing my pistol to grip the gun with my thumb resting on the thumb safety. As I draw the pistol and acquire my sight picture I can quickly depress the safety. Problem is that when I quickly draw the pistol at times the top of my knuckle on my thumb will come in contact with bottom edge the slide. If I really pay attention and index my fingers so that they are very low (pinky touching magwell) and just barely wrapping around the grip I am able to get my thumb far enough forward and down that it clears the slide quite easily. The problem is this grip is not natural for me. It rotates my wrist to the right a bit. It is not that it is uncomfortable, just unnatural. I installed a short trigger and changed the mainspring housing to one that is flush with the grip. This did help some. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of problem? I have seen some grips out there that list a "reduction". Does that mean a" reduction" in the circumference of the grip? Any help would be appreciated.

What is a plunk test?

The bullet is actually sold as a 357 sig 125gr jacketed hollow point. bought them last summer when there were no 124gr around. They seem to shoot just fine Thanks for the info. Did you start any lower than 4.8?

Does anyone out there have a starting load for IMR 4756 loading a 9mm case, 125gr jacketed hollow point Montana Gold bullet? Thanks for the help!

Posted Today, 02:39 PM The stock spring is probably a 17 #. I would not go under 15 #. You are not going to notice the difference between the 15 and 17. Leave it the way it is for reliable ignition. If you are trying to improve the trigger changing springs will not do it. Go to a reliable gunsmith and have a trigger job done Good advice. Thanks

Does anybody know what weight the main spring is in a stock STI Eagle? What would be the minimum and maximum weight? Benefit of each? Thanks for your help!

What are you thoughts about the DAA mag pouches. The aluminum ones look really nice but are out of my price range so I was considering the plastic DAA's.

I have a Futuristic Magnetic holster coming. This gear is new to me. Does anyone have any suggestions for mag pouches and belts? I have been looking at the plastic version of the DAA mag pouch and both the CR Speed and the DAA belt. Any input would be great!

Wanted to thank everyone for there expertise. I emailed STI tech this afternoon and hopefully they can straighten this out. Thanks again!!

There are (I am not a gunsmith and this is what I can see) three places I can see where the slide contacts the frame when assembling. One is the small spring loaded plunger (top of the frame) the other is where the dust cover might come in contact with guide rod assembly. When I insert the slide on the fame the first resistance I encounter is the small spring loaded plunger on top of the frame ( sorry for my ignorance I do not know the proper name ) the second point seems to be the link pin since it is usually extended one side or the other of the link. If I get the pin centered on the link the slide drags a little until it is past the frame and then things move freely. Ocasionally the bottom edge of the dust cover will hit the frame. This is easily fixed by guiding the guide rod into the frame and aligning it. I will take a picture of the marks the link pin has made inside the frame and maybe that will help explain it better. Thanks for all the help everyone!

Yes link pin. Learning terminology. It moves side to side a small amount. It has always done this. The only reason I know is I always apply a small amount of oil to it after cleaning.

I am relatively new to STI. I have noticed from the beginning cleaning my Eagle that assembling the pistol sometimes the slide would be difficult to put back in place. I would have to slide it back and forth several times and it felt like it was hitting something solid. After todays match I thoroughly cleaned the pistol as usual. I am having a very difficult time reassembling the gun. After close inspection it looks like the barrel lug pin is able to move from side to side just enough to come in contact with the slide. In the slide there are visable marks where the pin has come into contact with the slide. These marks are not terribly deep but are visible to the naked eye. Is this normal? Has anyone out there has this situation?

Hi Pat. It has an ambi safty. I actually bought a dvd from Dawson to learn how to completly break down a 2011. He shows using a Exacto knife that has the sharp edges ground off as a pry tool. Even when I did that I could just barely see a space between the frame and the safety. Thanks for all the replies Guys!