pskys2

If you want a Category in Revolver I'd look at a "Speedloader" Category like Hop-a-long does in Memphis. Seems to me it's best to concentrate on selling the simplicity/challenge aspect of Revovler Division as the best way to approach it. My .02 worth is changing anything will just decrease interest, but then again to play devils advocate opening up the major/minor 6 vs 8 shot idea would open the Division up to an equipment race. The unintended drawback will be some with gamier inclinations will be drawn in and that can lead to a whole rash of problems we don't have in Revo at this time, and I'd not like to see it start.

Shooting an 7/8 shot in USPSA just gives you an extra shot in case you don't light one off. The down side is you have to be religious in your counting of shots, The penalty is huge! Futher being that the major time use in Revo is the reload, I'd wager that if Minor 8 was allowed it would quickly end up being the firearm of choice. So how is that fair to all the 6, or even 7, shot Revos? The serious USPSA Revo's all have their rigs, gear, guns, etc the newbies may have a 7 or 8 shot, but not much else invested and they can play with that on a local level without much complaints. I've shot some ICORE with my 625, but it's a game that allows the 8 shooters and even though they attempt to equalize the courses, which removes a lot of fun, it still has become a game to use an 8 shot Revo if you are serious. I once thought of it as a viable option, but now think it is just a waste of effort. The current rules are simple and fair. Let's just use them. Dave

Not 8 shot moonclips are they? Happy Bday, Dave Thanks guys. Cliffs right it's 9x6! Why next year I can even compete as a Senior, AGAIN! Being such a force and all USPSA raised the Senior age the year After I attained it. Watch out now though, I'm even wilier and more devious now. Unless I hang with Cliff then it might be deviant I guess. Now if I can just remember where I put my shooting spectacles!

Ever tried Clays? Thinking of using it for NRA Action Pistol at a 120+PF.

I'm looking at using Clays with a 124 JHP MG bullet at about 1020f/s, for NRA Actin Pistol. So I'm curious how your load turns out.

I'm using a CR & Safarilands for my Limited guns, tell you why this is important in a bit. I was using a Safariland 002 for my 5" 625 & 4" M29, have now switched to a DOH Blade Tech. Now my draws have been pretty consistent between the 1911's & Revolvers it always depends more on my reaction to the buzzer depending on my focus that day. Once settled in I've never noticed more than a few .10's difference. This has not changed with the Blade Tech. It is just as fast, and actually seems faster, than the Safariland 002. Once I modified the front of the Blade Tech. I cut and scalloped it so the barrel doesn't drag on the holster if I get sloppy. It's also much more secure than anything but the older Safariland 007-8's, but they are of course only for Autos. I've never had a CR drop a gun, but it always feels like it's going to. Unless you start using a 6" barreled Revo I'd stick with a Blade Tech, and if you do get one that long the Blade Tech's are cheap enough you could whack a way on one to try and make it fit. While most of us aren't in the class of say a Dr. Dremel, it still not hard to do.

Most of the Revolver Barrels I've had, and seen, had a slight ring at the frame threads, kind of a step down look. I've never noticed that it hurt anything, nor do they seem to lead any worse. If the ring looks like the inside of a bubble forward of the frame threads, it may have had a squib in another life. If it shoots accurately (if it doesn't there are probably other reasons though), doesn't lead abnormally there and your velocity is where you expect I'd not worry about it and enjoy the game.

I have a PC 625 5" as you describe. Not impressed. If you're shooting IPSC I'd go with a standard 5". Notice no difference in accuracy or velocity over a standard 5". Cylinders still subject to peening. I actually chose this type because: 1) I wanted the advantage of the shorter lighter cylinder, which I don't see in accuracy, speed or velocity. 2) I like a lighter gun forward for decreased transition times. I do think it's slightly there, but not worth the extra price, and I'm not sure anyone under a High GM, not me, can utilize it.

Friday starts at 8:00am and goes til 4:30pm or so Saturday am starts at 8:00am til 12:00 Saturday pm starts at 12:30 til about 4:30 Sundays usually run 3 hours instead of 4 If you are new remember that the awards/prize table (you will have an opportunity to go to the table regardless of success) are on Sunday after the match. So you may want to be there anyway. Friday is a long grueling day, if the weather is good it's doable, if it's bad it's pure torture in the latter stages. Unless work, time or money is a major concern you would be better served going the 2 day route. Oh and bring plenty of water & snacks regardless of days.

The fact must be faced that with a Revo you will be making static reloads. You can plan your movements based on picking up targets at different positions, which will help. But it can get confusing, and some courses are real memory tests as it is. When faced with that issue, Keep It Simple and don't get lost. As for long range shots, you need to know your times to take a 25+ yd shot vs a 5 or 10 yard shot and know your reloading times. Sometimes it is worth the long shot and others it's not. It's a balance of speed and accuracy after all and a 30 yd miss without a reload isn't always better than a 3 second reload and an "A". That's part of what the appeal, and what repels others, in Revo. You actually have to start looking harder at courses, kind of what the M & GM's do as a normal part of their course prep in any of the Divisions. Also remember everyone in Revo is limited to that 6 shot standard, makes it a bit easier to take when you know everyone else is doing it. I've also yet found a Revo Competitor that wouldn't gladly offer advice on the better way to attack a course.

I had a gunsmith recommend #4 Steel Wool wrapped around a bore brush for leaded barrels, might do for bad cases of cylinder leading. I've found the solvent can make a big difference. The best I've found is Kroil or Butchs Bore Shine. Another option for a Stainless Cylinder is cut a square of the Silcone Impregnated Cleaning Cloths and run it thru a few times.

Matt, it's probably not the firing pin bushing, it's probably wear to the center-pin hole in the frame, which is allowing the cylinder to be pushed a little bit sideways by the hand as the hammer falls and causing the off-center hits. Anyway, firing pin bushings are easy enough to replace. Maybe I'm misspeaking, I'm talking about the hole in the frame where the hammer nose pokes through, it seems to be a detachable bushing, although damned if I can see the pin that holds it in place. Mine looks like it has slightly deformed at the bottom, where the hammer nose lands and is guided in the channel. H. The FP Bushing is a Press Fit. I had a M29 done by S&W and they sent it back COCKED! They remedied their screw up, but jeez. If it burrs you can dress it with a stone to smooth it down, I wouldn't worry unless you started getting primers flowing into it and tying up the action. As for the Apex FP the 2 I have just dropped in, so did all of the C&S FP's I've used, but I've heard you sometimes need to adjust them with a file. I would not make it a habit of dry firing without snap caps or empty cases, no matter who's FP you're using.

If a tour of Hornady is available on Saturday AM, I'd probably have 4 of us who might go. Won't make a Friday tour.

Anyone have prices, ratings on the 3 Hotels? Special Rates for Area 3 on any of them?

Just tell Bob what you want when you order. He made some with fatter posts that won't work with .44 or .38 moonclips. But I think all of his latest do. If not he'll swap them with little fuss, They're just bolt ons.

I don't know some of the ranges felt like we were under water then, kind of fun really. Hopefully the "NEW" building you used for stats last year wasn't under water. It sat on 20' stilts!

Actually the WSB says connected...I never said cuffed...if we use it, you will have to come to the match to see how you are really "connected" Sherwyn Where'd I get "Cuffed", sounds like a temptation I can't resist!

Actually on J if you had a rope pulley, or something, to grab onto that was attache to the wire and not be cuffed to it might be the way to go. I saw a video of a Nationals, World or some other big shoot that had a similar contraption and it didn't look that bad.

Hoping to make it. I'd vote off in the following order: Stage A Few Rounds, mundane tasks if added as a 2nd course could be a stage block. Stage P Memory course with little variation. Stage J Being cuffed to wires looks like a stage block. Stage F With Gun and Ammo on different Barrels looks like a stage block. Stage O With Ammo spread out on different Barrels looks like another stage block. The last 3 would be fun and interesting but it would seem to be hard on the R.O.'s. They'd have to keep up on us gamey guys and not let things lag. All the courses look fun though. Dave

I'm on my second pair of Dillon Electronic Muffs and like them, been using a pair since the early '90's. The Pro Ears are good, but as said have a tendency to turn on and drain the batteries. Which are very expensive. Plus the contacts for the batteries are as secure as the Dillon, they're secured by only the tension on the batteries and the foam inside the headset. The Dillon will not turn on going into a bag and the batteries are standard, plus the contacts are very solid and secured by the plastic outside access cover.

I have a PC and have shot several other regular 625's and I'm not sure that it doesn't Hurt accuracy. It doesn't make it any quicker on the trigger. It doesn't seem to stop the cylinder from peening the nothces either. If you're going to spend extra $$$ you might look into getting a Titanium Cylinder.

Another grand day for Revolvero's everywhere. Hope the next years sees nothing but Alpha's done quick. Happy Birthday!

Several years ago I also ran into trouble with Federals Top Brass, I think that was the name. The recesses must have been over max on their dimensions as I could only load 4 rounds into a moon clip, the 5th was way too tight and the 6th would not go in at all. I actually ruined several moon clips before I realized it. I had 100 of them to try and ended up using them in the Auto at lost brass matches. As stated the Amerc and S&B and any NT stuff aren't good either. If you weed out those then a few Top Brass won't matter. Starline, RP, Winchester, Speer all good. If you buy a specific brand in 500/1000 lots stay away from Nickle Cases as they don't seem to hold up as well. Some will start peeling and they seem to split a bit quicker. The only advantage of staying with one brand of brass is more consistency at the chronograph. And maybe keeping track of usage, though most of us use them til they crack. Some think you can get better accuracy, but I don't think most of us can see it. The only other thing is to occassionally clean the primer pockets if you have a light action. As the buildup can affect primer strikes with real light actions. We're talking after maybe 20+ loadings though.

A squib can also be caused by contaminated powder or primer. Use a Carbide Sizing Die and don't spray the case with any lube. That's probably the problem with the squibs. Water or oil can inhibit ignition and with you having powder in the case it seems likely the primer was contaminated.

Just started using a DOH Blade Tech, that I took a Dremel to. Dropped the front opening and widened it out a bit. I chopped on it due to the barrel hanging up if I didn't bring the draw up enough. I cut it down about halfway and could have gone further. Now it's both secure and fast. I have a Rescomp for Limited, a Safariland 007 for L10, Kydex for Production/Single Stack and was using a modified Safariland 002 for Revovler, until my modification broke during the Memphis Challenge. Of all those I disliked the 002 most, don't like the Rescomp much and always liked the 007. But it will probably be Kydex from now on.