jdd817

I think so, but I'd need several more fridges to fit all that beer.

There's a post somewhere in this forum that has pictures demonstrating the process, but essentially you need to compress the top of the mags along the ribs where it converts from double to single stacked. As they come from the factory this area is too wide leading to nose dives when the mag's full. I've done it to two of my big sticks and they both work 100% with cz custom guts, 28 rounds reloadable.

Yup, that's the one.

For the racker, try the EGW Sidewinder. On my CM, it fit rather tight in the dovetail, no issues with it moving during firing. I have it set up on the left side of the gun and it curves up high enough that there's no concerns with it hitting my hands. Not sure how it would work with a 90 degree mount however, I run the CZ Custom RTS2 mount myself.

Now there's a name I didn't expect to see on this thread.. been a while since I've seen Cody, seems like every time he has a show in DFW I'm busy.

If one division has been completed, it stands: 6.2.6 A match disqualification incurred by a competitor, at any time during a match, will prevent the competitor from further participation in the match including any subsequent attempts in another Division. However, this is not retroactive. Any previous and complete match scores from another Division will be included for recognition and awards in that Division.

http://www.uspsa.org/uspsa-NROI-production-gunlist.php It's not on the list yet, but I'd imagine it will be once they've got 2000 units shipped.

The weight difference between the two really isn't noticeable. The main reason I went to the RTS2 was for the reduced height over bore. Initially I was using a sideways mount, but I found myself having to always go left to right on short transitions. I wanted to go with an upright dot so that right to left was as good of an option, and the RTS2 was a good middle ground between both desires.

Here's the EGW racker installed:

I can post one once I get home.

I use the same thumbrest you have and like it. For a racker, I use the EGW sidewinder, it fits right in the dovetail for the rear sight.

It's not a shim, the thumbrest is a single piece.

Personally I find the thumb rest a bit small. It's better with the pin vs the slide stop as you can get more meat on it, but I still find my thumb hanging off it. Feels fine in dry fire, live fire is a different story. Have one of these on my czechmate, have one on the way for the TSO. Not 100% sure it will fit in the inset on the frame, and really don't want to take apart my scope on the CM to find out. https://cpwsa.com/collections/pistol-accessories/products/cz-czechmate-and-ts-thumb-rest

My Orange is a bit loose with the Racemaster I use with my Czechmate. The bottom of the trigger guard is a good deal thinner top-to-bottom on the TSO as compared to the CM.

A couple questions: 1) What are the weights of the two springs? 2) What are the units of measure on slide travel? It looks like the softer spring had about 5% more travel than the stiffer spring, that might not be enough to affect feeding, but an interesting thing to watch for. edit: using letters for outlining doesn't play nice with emoticons

When I removed my bushing (for a completely unrelated project to this post), I used a hex bolt socket that was large enough to not go through the bushing, but large enough to fit down the slide, a punch down the middle of the socket, and hammered it out. Took a bit of hammering, but it came out just fine.

I've run both the Manny Bragg and the Racemaster with my Czechmate.... Racemaster, hands down. With the MB, there would an occasional time that if I twisted the gun just right on the draw, it would stick in the holster and not come out. The RM almost seems to make the gun jump out into my hand, while still being very secure, especially when locked.

I was able to find some torx screws at fastner express which I use on my Czechmate. Thus far I haven't had any issues with them - according to the site they are A2 stainless. http://www.fastener-express.com/metric-torx-6-lobe-screws.aspx

Ignoring what the rules actually say for a moment, if it safe fundamentally safe to holster a gun that has had its hammer lowered to the half cock position by a decocker, then it is fundamentally safe to holster a gun that has had the hammer placed in the same position manually. Similarly, if it is fundamentally safe to manually lower the hammer on a gun without a decocker, then it is fundamentally safe to do the same on a gun with a decocker. Neither should earn a DQ, however a bump to open for an incorrect ready condition is a different matter. Now, being that the rules do in fact read differently from the above, they should be changed such that what is actually fundamentally safe is not ruled "unsafe". Until that change is made, or an official ruling issued otherwise, enforce the rules as written.

Awesome thread, as I'm currently looking into building a small-framed open gun as a backup to my Czechmate. Should I decide to go with a Czechmate comp (also considering some of the Witness comps), what is involved in fitting the comp? What about the concealed hammer? My understanding is the TS frame hammer is a bit wider than the 75 frame hammer, what would be involved in getting the concealed hammer to work? Last question I have is the big sticks. Is there anyone out there with a history of welding those up for the small framed mags? What kind of capacity can you expect from the small frame mags (currently I can get 28 reliably in my CM big sticks, likely could get it up to 29 with a bit of work). Thanks!

Here's a picture of how I currently have the rest mounted. You can see the slide pin behind it, I plan to remove just enough to get the pin clear.

I can get the before once I get home.. have no clue when I'll get around to removing the material on the thumbrest itself.

For the thumb rest, I got the DAA with 3 holes, angled it a little bit and drilled and tapped an extra hole in the mount to keep the thumb rest from rotating. The only downside to this setup is you have to remove the thumbrest to disassemble the gun. My current plan is to remove a bit of material so that the slide pin can come out with thumbrest still attached.

I had an issue in my gun where while shooting it seemed like I was getting light strikes, but the actual problem was a false reset - the sear trigger bar would clear the sear but not the firing pin block, so when I pulled the trigger it would release the hammer but the firing pin wouldn't actually move. The solution was to adjust the spring underneath the trigger bar such that there was more pressure on the right side of the trigger bar than the left. Try dry firing it, then rack the slide with the trigger still fully back, then let the trigger forward as slowly as you can until your finger comes off - if you can feel two clicks then that may be the problem rather than light strikes.

Put me down for one as well please.