CrashDodson

I would say 90% of reloaders doing it in volume are running dillon presses. The reason is they work and dillon stands behind their product and there are plenty of dillon users to bounce ideas off of. Dillon hold their value well if you ever wanted to sell or upgrade. If you have a safe full of hi-points then you can ignore this post and buy whatever you want buy once cry once as they say. The sdb is a good choice for lower volume.

I guess that's the boat I'm in. Definitely not reloading because it's fun.

Training is where you bring training guy and take yourself out of your comfort zone and push the boundaries and learn. Matches are where you bring match guy and shoot your skill level, call your shots....confirming your training. Bringing training guy to matches is a recipe for disaster.

My big thing is that in dry fire, how do you know that what your doing is practicing. That your getting something out of the training and not just pointing your gun at brown figures on your wall.

I have Lanny's log book but I honestly have never used it. I know I should at least document live fire practice. I have been practicing live fire with a friend and a lot of the time its like..ok what do we work on now? Really need to get a live fire plan of some sort together.

Ive been shooting USPSA since October...coming from IDPA/3gun. I bought Andersons first dry fire book when I started IDPA. I have since picked up Ben's books and I just ordered Andersons new one. In the back of Ben's dry fire book it has some training plans. I have been doing the accurate but slow plan. I run each drill about 15 reps. I have trouble with the logistics of the field course section....trying to setup stuff like ports in my house. I have gone from the bottom 1/4th of the pack in local USPSA matches to the top 1/4th regularly. I am still classified C but have started shooting A classier scores in matches. I can shoot GM scores on things like El prez in practice after a few runs. I have been trying to get in at least one live fire session a week, but that is not always the case. I usually get at least 5 dry fire sessions in a week but I try every day. I have moved my dry fire to the morning before work instead of at night and that is working a lot better for me. I am more focused and I feel like I get more out of it. I have not been documenting my dry fire at all but maybe that is something I should do. I have been reading about doing "random" practice instead of block practice for motor skills. Where block practice is doing sets and reps of the same drill...random practice you dont run the same drill twice back to back. Not sure if there is any value in that at this stage in my skills set.

In searching around I came across this thread which has some interesting stuff. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50226

Ive read books from Brian, Ben, Steve and Lanny....Ive taken classes...Ive listened to every practical pistol show...most of Steve's podcast...Not an hour goes by that I am not thinking about shooting in some form or fashion. Jake Di Vita has helped me out a ton as well. I would say most of us dont have a coach to help us every week or to review practice video every week. I cant afford to take a class with a GM every month. How do you hold yourself accountable for your training? What does solid, purposeful, dry fire/live fire sessions feel like as opposed to just going through the motions? Do you video your practice sessions and review them? Do you write down your times on your live fire drills to keep a record of any progress? I am trying to understand the difference between real practice and just wasting my time. If I am going to take 30 min or an hour or more away from my family 5-7 days a week I need to make the most of it. What are you guys doing in your practice to make it count?

I read this somewhere recently, a quote from Anders Ericsson. "Not all practice makes perfect. You need a particular kind of practice—deliberate practice—to develop expertise. When most people practice, they focus on the things they already know how to do. Deliberate practice is different. It entails considerable, specific, and sustained efforts to do something you can’t do well—or even at all. Research across domains shows that it is only by working at what you can’t do that you turn into the expert you want to become.” -Anders Ericsson So how do you put this into practice? How do you make sure that when your dry firing or at the range that you are deliberately practicing and not just going through the motions?

I have zero use for a single stage press loading .40 on a 1050. If I was loading rifle or something maybe.

For those that have shot both how does the Tanfo limited compare to a 2011 limited gun?

+1 I use the manny dot.

Absolutely, shooting weak hand its even more critical to have a front sight focus to insure an accurate shot. Very easy to prove on the practice range. I guess trigger manipulation and anticipation had nothing to do with it. I stand corrected. I never said trigger manipulation and anticipation had nothing to do with it, but without a front sight focus, he could not truly identify and call his shot, which would/could have in all likelihood saved him a mike. It all starts with the front sight focus, everything else beyond that is executing the fundamentals based on that input. without a front sight focus a mike was impossible to avoid. How is it then that many top level shooters can use target focus and somehow avoid mikes? Of the two, sight picture and trigger press, the trigger is the most important. You can have a perfect sight picture but anticipate the shot and yank the trigger and you will have no idea where the shot went. It's impossible to call the shot. On the other hand have a bad sight picture but perfect trigger press and it is easy to call the location of the shot. The perfect front sight focus crowd don't seem to realize that it is possible (even easy for many) to focus on the spot you want the bullet to hit and still see a good sight picture. Yes even good enough for head shots at 25 yards. Now back to the weak hand mike, most don't practice the weak hand like they should. The timing between the mental command to fire and the actual shot is different from strong hand or free style shots. The subconscious anticipates what it is accustomed to and the shooter pulls the gun down and away from the shooting hand before the shot fired. To say his mike is absolutely caused by lack of front sight focus is doing him no favors. I don't think you'll find very many "top level" uspsa shooters that will tell you they use target focus most of the time (with irons). And no.... If I'm focused on my sights and "yank" the trigger, my mind will register the sight movement before the shot. If you think top level shooters are running around with crystal clear front sight focus on anything but very tough shots....that is incorrect.

You use 3 types of focus in USPSA....Target focus for the 7 yards and closer...your just looking through the gun. Somewhere between target and front sight focus for targets maybe out to 15 yards. Your sights will be a little blurry. For difficult or the long distance shots you will have a front sight focus....where you acquire your target and shift focus to the front sight...this of course is all happening very fast. I have some eye dominance issues and with a hard..crystal clear front sight...I get two targets in my vision. This is distracting enough that i use scotch tape on my glasses over my non dominant eye. Just enough tape to block the front sight from my left eye but not effect peripheral. This way on difficult shots I can get a hard front sight focus without getting double targets. It works for me. Some people can get a hard front sight focus and not have the double vision issues I have.

I started out on a 550...at first I was excited about it...then I began to hate it. Sit down and load 1k rounds on a 550 and see if you still like life. I took a few shooting courses this year and took 2k rounds to each class...loading those on a 550 was a horrible experience. I added a case feeder and that just added to the frustration. Because of that experience I now own a 1050. I own a 1050 because priming on the down stroke is a beautiful thing and I only load .40. A 650 and a 1050 are not that far off in price for one caliber. If you load a bunch of different calibers then the 650 is cheaper on conversions and a little faster to convert. Everything about the 1050 is solid, and if you only load one caliber its the best choice. I walk in the garage and load 100 in 5 minutes. Save your money if you need to in order to get the 1050. Buy from Brian because he makes it easy and takes care of you the whole way. Dont let people scare you about reloading. Yes its serious and you need to be safe but its not rocket surgery and not as big of a deal as everyone says. You dont have to wear a wizard hat and stand over your press chanting magical phrases. I have never opened my reloading manual everyone says you must have since glancing over it after buying it. If you were loading a bunch of different calibers then maybe that's when you need one. Just search around and find what others are using for your bullet, powder and OAL. Step back from that and work up a few rounds..10 or so of each and go to the range and chrono. Find what your gun likes, set your press and crank away. Things you want are a good set of calipers. A good scale, I like beam scales but many like digital. A 100 round case gauge if you shoot competitively and hate racking your slide. Lots of brass, bullets, powder and primers. Good lighting around your press and specifically a light that shines down into the cases before setting the bullet. something to load primer tubes is great if you load a lot. I use the cheap Frankford one and with a little modification it works great.

I found the medium works much better for me also after shooting with the short for several months.

I can throw a lot of glocked brass/rounds in the trash for the price of a case pro. I would love to have one but its not in the cards for most of us.

I have the same trouble with glock bulge with the U die as with the redding. Neither die can size the entire case.

the nob on top is for the decaping pin. Nothing else can be adjusted i dont believe. I have not had to replace the pin yet so I am unsure but I assume its a redding part.

Greg Peine with Peine Custom in Texas https://www.facebook.com/peinecustom/

Greg Peine with Peine Custom in texas. https://www.facebook.com/peinecustom/

40 should have a slight coke bottle. I was using the U die and was getting a lot of split case mouths. The redding dual ring is easier to run and it seems to size the brass just enough.

I run a 1.21 OAL in my practice gun. and my SV can take an even longer OAL but im not going to work up two rounds.

Dude I have had my frustrations with 40 even before getting my SV. Take a marker and paint around the base of bullet in the case. Chamber the round. If its only scraping on one side then the bullet is not seating straight. I have resolved my issues with the following recipe: Redding Dual ring carbide sizer. The LEE U die works too but I start getting cases with split mouths. The powder funnel from the DAA mr bullet feeder Redding comp seater more crimp then you would think. with the SV they need to be .400 401s will just not work. .400 blue bullets work for me. I still get rounds that wont pass the hundo but its always due to glock bulge. I have a lee bulge buster that helps with some but still wont fix them all.

In this drill are you drawing and running a blake drill, then holster and repeat? Are you drawing on one of the beats? Or do you draw and wait for a beat to start the timing? Would you get any benefit out of running the drill over and over with only one draw until you start losing the timing or not pressing on A's? Like target 1 2 3 - 3 2 1 - 1 2 3 -3 2 1 vs a single blake drill over and over?