CrashDodson

The gun is not usually the problem with factory ammo as much as the mags. We are loading 9 and 40 into a mag/gun that was designed around the .45. Some say accuracy is better with a bullet that is as close to the lands as possible. As long as your mags feed the shorter ammo and you meet PF you should be perfectly fine. 2011 mags are finicky b!tches and longer ammo seems to feed more reliably. I personally run 1.22 OAL. Factory ammo in a 2011 is not an option for me because unreliable feeding is not an option for me. YMMV

I sent mine in for a checkup. I had bought it used. Got new rear sight installed. New trigger group. New hammer. All springs. New extractor. New ambi wide saftey installed. It was about 800 I think Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Does the back of the slide stop have a divot? Some do this so it's harder to accidentally engage the stop when shooting . Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

This is my .40 5" sight tracker. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

That makes a little more sense at least Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Holy crap they want 650 for the "match grade" long major Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Maybe the main gunsmith at SVI and other high end builders won't teach any of their employees their secrets and are instead forced to touch every gun themselves. If they had 1k guns on order and one guy was having to do the fit and finish it could explain some of the wait. Then you have to wait another 2 months to get it coated. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Wtf takes 4 years? It's a pistol not trumps wall. Do they work on the gun for 5 min once a month?

Im not one to wait...the custom build lead times are crazy to me. I sometimes think the extended wait times are to create a perceived value more then it actually takes 15 months to build a gun. If it took most of us 15 months to do our jobs we wouldn't have one. There is no reason it takes 15 months to build a gun. They dont want to hire more people or more equipment because they want to keep the perceived value of the product high. IMHO. With that said I just recently bought a used SV . Its a beautiful gun and a pleasure to shoot. I will say that their tolerances are so tight that it does make disassembly and reassembly more interesting than other pistols. If you want a 2011 then custom is the only way I would ever go. I have another custom 2011 I bought off gun broker a year ago...I am thinking about selling it and having SV build me another matching gun so I can have a practice/backup and match gun that feel identical.

450 for 1k? ouch.

Where are yall finding n320?

I had pretty bad elbow pain as you guys are describing after focusing hard on driving down my draw. I used a theraband bar thing wrapped my elbow daily with a rubber strap (voodoo flossing) used a hard ball to massage the elbow and surrounding muscles did the exercises from the shooters elbow link applied heat nightly with a heating pad Thanks to advice from Jake Di Vita and a few others on the forum it took about two months but I am completely pain free and my draw is fast as ever. Keep doing the therapy, even after it feels better. Unless you have a serious injury of some sort the therapy works. I kept dry firing the whole time.

FWIW I have had much better luck with the redding dual ring sizer then when I was running the Udie.

I run ramshot comp for 40 major but could not get it to work well for minor 9. Went with titegroup for 9 but still shoot ramshot for 40 major. its cheap and it works great for that caliber.

I run ramshot comp for .40 major but could not get a good .9 minor load with it. Titegroup worked better for 9 minor.

I pretty much use a target focus or somewhere in between of target focus and front sight for 90% of the shots. Unless its a difficult shot or hard steel I am not going to a front sight focus. I run a magic dot/tape on my non dominate eye due to an eye dominance issue, not sure if thats part of it. I think the problem is purely mental. And it seems to just be the first target of a stage or sometimes the first target in an array on a new shooting position. I will work on some drills to shoot as soon as I enter and see if it helps. I have been doing some "call it and leave it" drills and box to box type drills but it is not yet translating to the match. I might start trying to use my local matches as a test bed for going faster rather than being conservative. Its interesting how fast I "feel" when I am shooting vs how fast I look on video after.

We never setup full stages in live fire, just drills. I only seem to notice it in matches. Dry fire everything is fast as expected. I have been doing a bit of practice on first shot out of the draw in live fire but it doesn't seem to translate to the matches. Of course your not usually doing standing draws and shooting in a match. I just have this unnecessary hesitation to get that first shot off on the first target in an array.

Same problems with shotmaxx and others have had the issue as well. I have had 3 of them so far and they all end up with the same problem.

In the last few matches I have found myself getting into a position, aimed at the target...and not pulling the trigger. Its not trigger freeze but....brain freeze? I can recall a specific moment when I think to myself "why are you not shooting?". Granted this all happens in fractions of a second but I still cant get myself out of this over-aiming problem. Its only on the first target in an array, targets I transition to after the 1st go as normal. Anyone else ever experience something like this?

they dont have much in stock..maybe the stock will update at midnight also

I saw you at the NM sectional. I was ROing stage 2 and pretty busy so I didnt have time to introduce myself. Nice shoooting by the way. You wouldnt happen to have video from the match would you? Would love to compare your runs to mine.

So I need a press to remove it? Was trying to come up with a way I could press in the firing pin while tapping it out with a brass punch but I only have 2 hands.

I am trying to remove the plate that the firing pin runs through and holds the extractor in place. Forgive me for not knowing the technical name for that piece. I have another 2011 and I can use a punch to press in the firing pin and then press down the plate. The plate on this SV is ridiculously tight. Any tips on getting it removed? I have been having some extraction issues and want to get in there and clean out the extractor and extractor hole.

In general I am a quiet and I guess you could say shy person. I am very uncomfortable speaking in front of groups of people. ROing and handling scoring at our local matches has helped me a lot with that.

It has a red trigger now but otherwise the same