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hey folks, I wish I'd read this before I started work on my new versamax..anyway,I modified my carrier also.It's magnetic, and doesn't take cold blue,so I think it is 17-4ph , a common gun material. When looking at weld wire compatibility charts,If you don't have 17-4,15-5 or 15-7 is a good alternative...that is what I used,and can be welded with 17-4 weld wire.I fit a piece of .063 sheetmetal and tacked it in 3 pl.,then put a purge under the carrier- came out nice and silver. thanks for the headsup about needing to chamfer the edge of the extractor relief..my shotgun was jamming- thought it was the bolt release.Now I need your help: if anyone cut a versamax bbl( 23" looks good) what chokes did you use..please reply asap so I can finish my shotgun

have you checked with fulton armory? they market criterion barrels, they should have gasblocks to fit it

well,now that you have the gasblock off( best laid plans) , you could put a single rail block on, then get a clamp on f/r site set-up.you'll have to dial front in radially,( for no-wind zero),but I have that set-up on 3 rifles.( at the time I started shooting big gun,there wasn't all that much available.

you might consider getting a sinclair bump insert. thia will allow you to know exactly how much you are bumping the case sholder back. I've had cases that I know were set-back .003 look high on the wilson case gage. Don't get me wrong, I still use wilson to check loaded rounds,I use sinclair for set-up-.003-.005 ,you can't measure w/o bump gage & calipers

just came back from initial break-in of my latest lr-308. based on the current M-110 concept, it has a fulton armory 20"1-12,4 groove barrel. gas system is rifle length. I added an enidine a-2 buffer,tubbs h/d recoil spring ,a pof roller cam,a jp enhanced bolt. and a jp adjustable gas block. ammo is 168 hpbt @2600 fps.followed directions- set screw 2 turns up from bottom. fired a round, bolt locked back.1 1/2 turns,1 turn,same thing. at 3/4 turn, pierced a primer.At a full turn it was ok, but hi primer flow...settled on 1-1/4 turns.Couple of points here: 1,it does not take alot of gas to function big gun.2,there needs to be enough gas out to not create unwanted pressure in chamber. will continue to use adjustable gas block to tame big gun.

if your barrel is .800 where gas block is return what you purchased and ask for a .750 gasblock, then have it reamed..800 sounds really odd.. who is manufacture?..

here's my 2 cents worth: I've had 5 dpms lr-308's. all had problems,but the ap-4 was the really troublesome one.I think you cannot address extraction w/o addressing bolt thrust/dwell time. to that end, I have concluded the big rifle should have no shorter than mid-length gas system, rifle length is best.here is what I've done to keep my rifles running: because my rifles seemed ok til I ran a field course and burned down a mag or so, then failure to extract, case left in chamber,ect.To cure that problem I use the dpms dual spring set-up+ 2 tanks rifle shop dognuts( stacked). Change them every 1000 rounds...keep a log.I know it seems like a lot of spring pressure,but that 1.75lb. carrier group slamming home will strip a round w/o any problems & extractor will snap into place.Now your spring will not fade from a hot gun:read lots of double taps.what else I change: all my rifles have standard buttstock exts. w/ a-1 stocks( only slightly longer than an ar15a2.I use tubbs +10% recoil springs, with enidine standard .308 buffers(big increase in dwell time/unlocking)I also use pof roller cam pins.now my rifle runs, and brass is not torn up.Finally, a jp ajustable gas block.Now ,brass looks great ,no extractor/ejector marks, and all it cost was time & money

it's pointed at appx. 45 deg... can be done on a belt sander

you should steer clear of using hss for anything! use at least cobalt.. better yet, drill with hi-roc-acts just like a reamer.