bayougump

I usually cut a Q-tip the length of the sear pin and it works good, It is tricky and aggravating at first but once you do it a few times it gets easier. It took me time to build up courage to start working on my Tanfos but once you dive in and start then you'll get much more comfortable. And if you're ever in doubt, Sir Atlas is your friend

Too bad not large frame cuz I'd buy your grips cuz putting a magwell on my Stock III, lol Sent from my flux capacitor

Anyone have some extra grips to fit a large frame Stock III that I just put a magwell on? Sent from my flux capacitor

Dude, it's getting bad. Not just to have one for every division but backups too. But least not addicted to crack so it's ok in my book Sent from my flux capacitor

I wouldn't mind another Stock II that's in .40 but I got to get a Tanfo Open first before adding to Stock II collection. Not bad prices though right now Sent from my flux capacitor

^^^what he said^^^ Sent from my flux capacitor

Gentlemen, I got a SA trigger in today (thanks atlas) and I am going to put it in my Stock III as to make it a Limited class only pistole. I have been reading and is the only thing I need to do is take out the disco and it should be good to go? Are their any other parts that wouldn't be in my Stock III that would be needed for the conversion? I am using a CZ TRS spring presently, will that still suffice or is their a different spring needed? Thanks in advance.

Nice catch Sent from my flux capacitor

It looks like it's the 2nd part of a 2-piece sear. Or that's what my GoogleFu shows me. Sent from my flux capacitor

Once I put new spring in and cut few coils down to make sure hammer ended up flush with back plate. Not sure why it's binding in the channel like that Sent from my flux capacitor

What is it about the new Extreme springs that make them better than the Wolff or factory tanfo springs? I want to get some but really not a lot of info on them and what combos would be optimal.

The new Henning XL FP? I got one and when put in Stock II first time with FP spring I had in gun already, it would bind down and get stuck. I changed FP spring and ran it at a match yesterday with zero problems and NO LIGHT STRIKES!!!

I'd give the Stock a little more time. I swapped from a G34 to a Stock II and the DA/SA was a big adjustment but now I really don't even notice it once the buzzer goes off. I have a Stock I, II, and III and another II on the way. Yes there are less parts easily available, less gunsmiths to work on them, but they're great and you can get any Glock any day just about anywhere. Just my two cents. The Stock I is the closest to a Glock I think as it's not as heavy as others. The weight was a big adjustment. Sent from my flux capacitor

+1 on Shay, he makes some sweet guns Sent from my flux capacitor

Oh yeah, I think it's the pride and time that stings more than buying another sear, lol Sent from my flux capacitor

How heavy does it need to be for IDPA? It's definitely lighter than the rest of my unicorn herd but still a fine gun. If no one takes it sooner than later than I may make it a steel gun only, who knows, lol Sent from my flux capacitor

Well, hours of sanding and polishing for naught. Finally got safety to engage after working on sear leg and now if I pull trigger hard enough in single action dry firing it goes off. Sumbitch. Since I've got a new stock II coming to backup my existing one, this Stock III is getting a henning trigger for sure now and become a dedicated Limited gun. Sent from my flux capacitor

Large frame but you know the saying....."I'm not a smart man" Sent from my flux capacitor

You can do like me and just buy another Tanfo. It honestly seems cheaper sometimes but I have an addiction. On a side note I do have a 9mm looking to sell/trade if wanted to get for your son. They are great guns Sent from my flux capacitor

Ok fellas, I borrowed a buddy's dremel and I was able to get a decent amount of material removed from the leg to allow the safety to engage. I have been using 2 different sand papers by hand now. I can get the safety to engage if I pull hammer to half cock position but not when the hammer is fully back or fully forward. Are you removing almost the whole arch of the leg or focusing more of removing material under the leg so safety has clearance to get under it? Does that make sense what I'm trying to explain?On a side note thru all this work on my own, my SA trigger is around the 2-2.25# and reset is super short. The DA is much smoother and lighter, still some stacking at the end but not near as much in the beginning. I think I like the SA weight and reset so much that I may not install a henning flat trigger, at least not in the immediate future. Hopefully my henning magwell will come soon and I'll be ready to shoot some Limited after Area 4 Sent from my flux capacitor On mine, the arch on the under side of the leg had a curvature which would never allow the safety to engage...So, I didn't necessarily need to remove material from the whole underside of the leg, only near the tip to make it flatter. I didn't use a dremel either, only files. I think if your safety is working at half-cock but not fully cocked then you are very close to having it working. Just need to flatten out the tip of the leg to ensure the sear can clear the tab on the safety. Go slow though, very easy to remove too much - ask me how I know Yea, before last night I couldn't even get to engage at half cock so I think it's close. That's why I'm just using two different sand papers by hand, one 1500 grit fine and another much rougher. It's a pain and time consuming but I don't wanna end up having spent hours of work and end up having removed a hair too much. Let me guess, you removed too much and it's no bueno? Sent from my flux capacitor Yes....I should have stopped because I was starting to get frustrated (rebuilding the sear 25x is very annoying) so I got more aggressive with the file....oops. I had to do this on 2 different guns, the second gun is the one I screwed up and had to start over. Yea, I get ready to throw this sear against the wall every time I put it in and it doesn't work but last night getting it to engage at half cock was a plus. I think a little more off the tip will do it..........hopefully, lol Sent from my flux capacitor

Ok fellas, I borrowed a buddy's dremel and I was able to get a decent amount of material removed from the leg to allow the safety to engage. I have been using 2 different sand papers by hand now. I can get the safety to engage if I pull hammer to half cock position but not when the hammer is fully back or fully forward. Are you removing almost the whole arch of the leg or focusing more of removing material under the leg so safety has clearance to get under it? Does that make sense what I'm trying to explain? On a side note thru all this work on my own, my SA trigger is around the 2-2.25# and reset is super short. The DA is much smoother and lighter, still some stacking at the end but not near as much in the beginning. I think I like the SA weight and reset so much that I may not install a henning flat trigger, at least not in the immediate future. Hopefully my henning magwell will come soon and I'll be ready to shoot some Limited after Area 4 Sent from my flux capacitor On mine, the arch on the under side of the leg had a curvature which would never allow the safety to engage...So, I didn't necessarily need to remove material from the whole underside of the leg, only near the tip to make it flatter. I didn't use a dremel either, only files. I think if your safety is working at half-cock but not fully cocked then you are very close to having it working. Just need to flatten out the tip of the leg to ensure the sear can clear the tab on the safety. Go slow though, very easy to remove too much - ask me how I know Yea, before last night I couldn't even get to engage at half cock so I think it's close. That's why I'm just using two different sand papers by hand, one 1500 grit fine and another much rougher. It's a pain and time consuming but I don't wanna end up having spent hours of work and end up having removed a hair too much. Let me guess, you removed too much and it's no bueno? Sent from my flux capacitor

Ok fellas, I borrowed a buddy's dremel and I was able to get a decent amount of material removed from the leg to allow the safety to engage. I have been using 2 different sand papers by hand now. I can get the safety to engage if I pull hammer to half cock position but not when the hammer is fully back or fully forward. Are you removing almost the whole arch of the leg or focusing more of removing material under the leg so safety has clearance to get under it? Does that make sense what I'm trying to explain? On a side note thru all this work on my own, my SA trigger is around the 2-2.25# and reset is super short. The DA is much smoother and lighter, still some stacking at the end but not near as much in the beginning. I think I like the SA weight and reset so much that I may not install a henning flat trigger, at least not in the immediate future. Hopefully my henning magwell will come soon and I'll be ready to shoot some Limited after Area 4 Sent from my flux capacitor

you will love it! its a great gun to shoot. I can't wait to get it. Should be about 3 more weeks. I usually shoot 1911s and 2011s and maybe a Glock every once in a while. I recently sold off a few other guns and had the money burning a hole in my pocket when I stumbled across the Stock II for an extremely fair price including all Xtreme internals, etc. I won't say what I paid but it less than what I have seen stock-out-of-the-box Stock IIs sell for on gun broker, etc. This is just the beginning. I started with 1 earlier this year and will have 4 at months end depending in delivery date. They're addictive Sent from my flux capacitor nice man. im the same way. i got a SF and 2 LF right now all 9mm. but i think im gonna give my father one of my LF. he loved it when he shot it! I know where you can get a great 9mm Stock 1 for the old man:-) Sent from my flux capacitor

you will love it! its a great gun to shoot. I can't wait to get it. Should be about 3 more weeks. I usually shoot 1911s and 2011s and maybe a Glock every once in a while. I recently sold off a few other guns and had the money burning a hole in my pocket when I stumbled across the Stock II for an extremely fair price including all Xtreme internals, etc. I won't say what I paid but it less than what I have seen stock-out-of-the-box Stock IIs sell for on gun broker, etc. This is just the beginning. I started with 1 earlier this year and will have 4 at months end depending in delivery date. They're addictive Sent from my flux capacitor

^^^what he said^^^ Sent from my flux capacitor