lumberjack149

+1 more that is really happy with this barrel. I shot it against a 16" ULW taccom and a 16" JP barrel/brake and this 10/16" barrel and i think it might become my new preference (and it looks neat). The uppers were all shot on the same lower which is a PSA with a taccom 3 stage buffer system. My informal testing consisted of shooting a bunch of pairs on paper at 10yds as quick as i could pull the trigger in all kinds of positions (leans, ports, moving, etc). Before i put this 10/16 upper together this week, i preferred my 16" JP barrel/brake combo over my 16" ULW taccom upper since the 16" ULW upper was too jumpy for me. This 10/16 upper feels very similar to handling my 16" ULW upper as far as being light weight but shoots as flat as my 16" JP barrel (maybe flatter but i need more testing). For a handguard i used a 10" alg V0 that was on clearance for $40 and then cut an angle on the end to clear the gas ports.

The 19x with MOS is the glock 45, if thats your preference

It runs fine with my stock Gen 5 34

yes, that is one option. Below is a website i bought off of that carry quite a few different shapes and then as you said you could fill the remaining voids with powder if you wanted. https://www.maximum-velocity.com/product-category/pinewood-derby-weight/tungsten-weight/

Yes, it weighed just over 40oz with an empty magpul mag inserted when i weighed it at the SC state match. It started out just like this thread as far as i was just trying to add a few more ounces to a CO gun for the heck of it. I learned that you could easily add 3oz to 7oz to a glock but i really couldnt think of much beyond that (2oz over stock weight with an extended 1/4" thick tungsten guide rod and then 3 to 5 oz in the grip depending on what type of tungsten you used and how permanent it was). I then i read a thread on the sig 320's and about what some people have done to the grips as far as chopping them up and adding tungsten and putting them back together and i figured what the heck, i enjoy tinkering and the worse that can happen is i ruin a frame. I shoot my glocks with a medium size grip so i wanted to make sure when i was done that it was still a medium size grip. I used the extra backstraps i had laying around and i made a template on the grip size and i could always take measurement off my other glocks as i went. The first thing i did was chop away most of the back grip area with the exceptions of a few small strips of plastic left (to give something to attach to and help keep the basic grip shape). I then went layer by layer with tungsten plates, blocks (two different sizes), and small scrap pieces of tungsten to build up the basic shape of the grip (solid tungsten adds up very quickly). Before i started, I also roughed up the plastic surface pretty good, made small little attachment points in the plastic for the putty to tie into, and tied small stainless wire into the plastic to kind of act like rebar. All the tungsten layers are held together by devcon steel putty (slow setting stuff). I took quite a few different evening getting the basic shape of the grip built back up but once that was done i did lots of skim coats and then sanding to get the final shape i wanted (devcon steel putty mixed with tungsten powder since this part was just cosmetic and not structural). I then covered it all with a silicon carbide grip job so you cant tell anything was changed unless you pick up the gun. I forget the exact weight break down but it has a tungsten guide rod and some weight is in the lower part of the grip on the left and right hand side where it flares out slightly on the gen 5's where i just made it a small transition from mid grip to where it flares out and then the rest is where i cut the back part of the grip out and built it back up. I did this 6 months ago and i only have 3,500rds through it since then so we will see how it holds up long term.

There is a decent difference in weight between using tungsten powder and tungsten shapes (spheres, blocks, plates, etc). I would recommended using as many of the shapes as you can fit in the grip instead of powder. Not that i think it matters on performance (i just like tinkering), i was able to get my CO glock up to 40oz by getting creative and playing around with tungsten.

Good luck getting a Glock to 45oz and keeping the mods internal. You can add +5oz to +9oz pretty easy and up to 8 to 14oz extra if you are creative with tungsten weights

I have been shooting one for a couple years now and from how i read the rules, you should be fine

Mine passes with a 14# but fails on the 13# (g5 34, 4.5# striker, dpp red dot, tti guide rod)

i deleted this post so i didnt drag this thread into the aftermarket trigger conversation

I agree with you and expected a comment like this but that was my point when the comment at the top was joking on glocks and "define accuracy". I would agree with him on some of the older plastic pistols, as i had an M&P with an accuracy problems (7" groups until it got an apex barrel) and an old glock 17L i use to own wouldnt shoot better than 5". I guess i did exaggerate some with the usually around 2" statement which is a very tall order but i have shot a few groups under 2" (luck or potential accurracy of the pistol?). I also stated 5 shot groups which is better than 3 shot groups but you still sometimes get lucky vs. 10 shot groups. I was surprised to find out that the gen 5 accuracy improvement was real vs. some of the other marketing items on the gen 5.

Factory federal 150gr syntech stuff

Yes, in my experience. With my gen 3's my groups at 25yds varied between 3-4" depending on the gun and the day ( sand bags, red dot, 5 shot groups). Both my gen 5's (34 and 17) shoot better than that. They are consistently less than 3" and usually around 2".

its the common gen 4/5 to gen 3 guide rod adapter. This is for the 0.275" diameter gen 3 guide rods that use the Wolff recoil springs.

i am using the gen4/gen 5 adaptor and the jentra ultra heavy tungsten guide rod i bought through NDZ