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I have demo’d the 750 in the Dillon showroom. It IS the same priming system as the 550, just a different location as stated above. Both systems have their pros and cons. The 550/750 is an inherently simpler system. The downside is it’s not as robust and CAN be finicky. The 650 is a more solid robust system and IMO makes it easier to prime finicky cases with tight primer pockets. I don’t think it’s that much more difficult to swap priming systems on the 650 vs 550. And for high volume loading prefer the 650 system. It’s all personal preference. Any Dillon system is a good system IMO. Obviously YMMV Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a gen 3 with a milled slide that I had done WAY back before red dots were all rage. They are WAY better at milling slides now than they were back then. That being said, still holds zero, works good, last long time. I also have a Brownells milled slide (Gen 3). It too is awesome. I also have a Gen 5 G17 MOS FS. It is far and away the best factory Glock I’ve ever handled. I’m shooting CO optics with a DPP and I absolutely love it! Haven’t done a thing too it. Still completely stock. I think the 1st gen MOS systems may have had some bugs, but I think at this point they are all pretty well ironed out and the MOS is a great system. Point being, I don’t think you go wrong at this point with any option. But for pure simplicity sake if I was buying a Glock for CO I’d get a Gen 5 MOS FS either 17 or 34. No question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FWIW... Had my LabRadar for a year. Used weekly. Never an issue. Followed directions (which I know some people have an issue with), works as advertised. If your not using the unit often then yes, it’s probably advisable to get a cheaper unit. I have shot rounds across all three of the chronographs in the same sitting and they were all within a few FPS of each other. Definitely within the margin of error. Calipers have been dropped on cement floor and used almost daily. Don’t baby them at all. They are solid and well constructed. Still hold perfect zero. I think I’d save the $50 unless I was measuring something that required next level accuracy. Everyone has anecdotal story’s about this thing or that. The technologies we’re talking about are all pretty proven at this point. Unless you’re buying total crap, any of the afore mentioned suggestions will serve you well. YMMV Best of luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a set of these. I think they are the best you get for less than $100. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0fTMDbDSMXFFS I also have a set of these. Good. But the iGaging are just a touch better. Only from Amazon - Absolute Origin 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2J551K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NiTMDbQ2JBM5M I think the best chrono out there right now is the Labradar. Buy once cry once. If you wait till Black Friday and luck across a Brownells 10% of sale, which I did, you can get the plate, radar, and case for less than $500. It’s only a month away. I also have a the Caldwell chrono and and CED Pro Chrono. All chronos give you the same info. But for ease of use, and the wide range of environments you can use it in the LabRadar is tough to beat. I use it indoors at the gun club. Something I could never do with a standard chrono. Great for load development. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea, that’s weird. I got a TSO a couple weeks ago. I’ve put several hundred rounds through it and it for sure doesn’t look like that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I created a spreadsheet awhile back, and I think for a basic 550 set up my break even point was about 5000 rounds or so. I can’t remember exactly. And that was using range pick up brass. I started saving brass years before I started reloading as I knew I wanted to reload at some point. That being said, your thought may be to go with a basic setup, but then you just start picking up parts and components here and there when you you find a good deal or something that interests you. And then one day you wake up and you have the third car garage devoted to firearms and reloading. You start buying guns to reload for. It’s a sickness. Looking back I don’t think I really enjoyed my firearms before I started reloading. I didn’t want to shoot the ammo I had because it was expensive and I didn’t know when I’d be able to afford more. I sure as hell wasn’t as proficiently as I am now shooting hundreds of rounds a week practicing and participating in competitions. I do make much more now then I did back then, but now I shoot and don’t think twice about it. I’ve since gotten into precision long range rifle stuff and that opened up a whole other worm hole of reloading. I even went so far as to air condition and insulate my garage so I can load in Phoenix in the summer. I [emoji3590] reloading. I always tell my wife, “it’s cheaper than therapy”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried out the FMJ FP Matchwinners from RMR. 3.5 grs Titegroup at 1.130 gave me 920 FPS out of a G34. I use HP-38 as well in 147 grain loads, just didn’t get a chance to test it yet. Neighborhood of 3.6-3.8 grs should get you where you need to be. A small charge of fast burning powder is good in most 147 gr 9MM loads. Disregard, I didn’t see the Czechmate part. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought my Dillon 650 on sale from Titan Reloading about 6 months ago before the 750 was announced. (Still on sale by the way, as I’m sure they are everywhere) I bought all the upgrades from Armanov and Snowshooz. Also got a Mr Bullet Feeder for multiple calibers. I LOVE IT! If you can find a 650 on sale or one of the new newer used ones it’s tough to beat. I make 300 BO brass, process 5.56 brass, and have loaded about 10-11k rounds of various calibers. Easy to set up. Easy caliber changes. Could not be happier. I live about 2 miles from Dillon and got to play around with the 750 before it went on sale. It’s a nice machine as they all are, but I’m in the camp that likes the 650 priming system. And I have a 550 too. That priming system can be a little finicky at times too. Either way go team blue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have this one and dig and it. Works good. Last long time. Not too big. Not too small. https://hyve-technologies.com/product/gen3-extended-mag-release-for-the-glock/ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Know it’s not apples to apples, and not really per your request, but I’d encourage you to extend the throat sooner rather than later based on my experience. I bought a Manson reamer and extended the throat of my G17 Open Gun barrel. I can now run my bulllets out to 1.160” (max for Glock mags). It allows me to put more powder in which in turn runs the comp better, and the accuracy went way up as well. I wasted a lot of time, powder, and bullets in load development for the shorter OAL. Cost me less than $50 and took 10 minutes. And it only took 10 minutes cause I went slow and removed a small amount of material at a time. Just something to think about. I’m using 115gr RMR JHP, 1.160”, 7.7 grs Silhouette 1488 FPS 13.7 SD / 55 ES 171.12 PF* (those numbers are from 45 rounds over the chronology). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I saw on one of their YouTube videos that they have Glock Specific inserts. I believe they are medium inserts that are shaved down just a tad by them. They said you can do it yourself or ask them for the shaved down inserts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m gonna have to try that Sport Pistol after I run out of HP-38 and Titegroup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s fantastic! Glad my wasted time, bullets, and powder saved you the same heartache

Morning, Just got this email from DAA this morning. Good deals if your in the market: Dear Customers and Friends, We are very pleased to offer our loyal mailing-list members, some super-saving offers on reloading combo’s. These offers are online now, and valid only until October 15th and while stock lasts! Don’t wait! order yours now! Dillon Super 1050 Bundle #1: Super 1050 with Mr.Bulletfeeder. Regular price: $2351.90. Special offer discount $2,159, you save $193! Dillon 650 Bundle #1: XL650 with case feeder and Mr.Bulletfeeder. Regular price: $1339.85. Special offer discount $1,129.90, you save $210! Dillon XL650 with Case Feeder: Regular price: $869.90. Special offer discount $799.90, you save $70! Dillon XL650 without Case Feeder: Regular price: $599.95. Special offer discount $539.90 , you save $60! The above special prices for the Dillon Press and Mr. Bulletfeeder Combos are for Pistol Caliber MBF’s. Rifle caliber will be $20 higher. Happy reloading everyone! Your Alpha Dynamics USA Team.” Have a great weekend.

No problem. A power factor of 135-137ish seemed to be the sweet spot, regardless of powder. For me at least, a shorter COAL allowed me to use less powder for a given PF which made for a softer shooting load, less empty case space which leads to cleaner powder burn, and more accurate load to boot. I love RMR. Amazing customer service. They took the unused 135’s back and gave me full credit towards another purchase. I use them almost exclusively now. I load the 115 JHP MPR in my G19 major open pistol. Amazingly accurate! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have used the 147 and 115. I ran them from 1.130” all the way down to 1.090”. I had a little feeding issues at 1.130” but they worked. I found with out exception that they were most accurate at 1.090”. Both bullets, all powders tried. In fact the 115’s at 1.090” with both Titegroup and HP-38 is maybe my most accurate practice load ever. I just ordered a boat load more. And this is across the board in all my 9MM pistols. I tried the 135’s as well but my G34 with Agency barrel just wouldn’t shoot them no matter what I tried. I was very disappointed. However again, the most accurate of the inaccurate loads was achieved at 1.090”, after trying every COAL and powder under the sun, at several velocity’s. I know I gave you nothing on the 124’s which is what you asked for. But, seeing as how all the other weights behaved similarly, I think that would be a good starting point with the 124’s. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was a a major consideration for me when I started reloading back in the early 2000’s. I started before the “Obama” era lean years. I just had a feeling things were gonna change. Glad I anticipated it and didn’t try to start after things had already gotten bad. I also started saving brass and buying reloading components years before I started reloading. I will also agree with those who say buy in bulk. It’s expensive but that’s where you really save. If you’re reloading for volume, which is what it sounds like you are, then you need a machine and components to do volume (xl650/740)(yes I also have a 550). With a bullet and case feeder, and components you’re into it for $2000 at least. I used to load everything on the 550 but there is no comparison how much faster a decked out 650/750/1050 is. I love reloading. It’s therapeutic. I have an air conditioned man cave / garage / gun shop that I spend hours upon hours in. I’m also lucky to have to a job where I only work 10-11 days a month so I have the time to do it. Because don’t kid yourself about that either, reloading IS time consuming. I load .380, 9MM, 40SW, 10MM, 45 Auto, 223, 300BO, 30-06, .308 win, 8mm Mauser so I more than make up for the ridiculous amount of money I’ve spent on reloading equipment. I think you start reloading with an idea of the minimum you want to do, and then you end up with thousands of dollars invested in your man cave. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have different trim specific tool heads heads set up for trimming and forming 5.56 and 300 BO. I have two separate tool heads for 300 BO as I use the GSI dies and tool head set up so it’s two steps. I move my RT1500 between the tool heads. I do massive quantities at one time time so having to move it around occasionally is not that big of a deal. For my 300 BO and 5.56, I wet tumble which knocks off outside burr. Then on my 650 I run a Lyman M Die in Station one which knocks the burrs off the inside and expands just a little as I use a Mr Bullet feeder as well. If you’re not making precision ammo then this is more than adequate to deal with burrs. Even this process still produces MOA ammo for the most part. For precision brass prep I do it in smaller quantities on the 550. Then use a Worlds Finest Trimmer II, and debur chamfer by hand. I’m only doing 100-200 at a time so it’s not a big deal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What’s everyone been paying for their guns? Scottsdale Gun Club has couple north of $800. I don’t remember the exact price. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t own this pistol but I did get to shoot one today. What a great pistol. The owner was shooting 115 gr FMJ bulk ammo and the accuracy was pretty good but nothing to right home about. I then ran some of my RMR 115 gr FP Mini MatchWinner’s through the gun and they were lights out off hand at 30’. Load was 4.7 grs HP-38 @ 1.090” COAL Chrono’d at 1177 FPS 9.7 SD / 30 ES Another load with the same bullet is 4.4 grs Titegroup. I didn’t get a chance to shoot that old in the Legion but it has shot great in every 9MM I have. It chronos out of my full size 9’s at 1172 FPS 18 SD / 56 ES. YMMV Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Safariland’s that lock in the ejection port fit a little better because they are more generous inside (i.e. not molded to the pistol, more of “general shape of the pistol” if that makes sense) Most of the Safariland holsters I have fit multiple guns even if it says its for a specific gun. Even guns of a different brand fit. I’ll get some model numbers when I’m out in the man cave tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a generalization, but the newer barrels in the Gen 5 Glock have a much “tighter and shorter” throat compared to Glock barrels in the past. Glock barrels in general used to be “sloppy” and thus would feed almost anything. I suspect, especially if you are hand loading, that the COAL for the given bullet and profile is too long for the newer barrels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m 99% sure that all the striker springs the ship with the Wolff recoil springs are all stock weight, no matter the weight of the recoil spring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, maybe I implied that you can’t aim well with the Big Dots, but you can. I just said point and shoot, in terms of quick target acquisition. They are VERY good at allowing you to make quick, accurate, close range shots. But they also can be aimed with as much accuracy as you can muster from that small of a pistol. But again the Truglo TFX series are a better all around set of sights. And they are going to be better, at least for me, as the ranges get further away. I’ve purchased both of those sets of sights off of Amazon for a steal. As far as quality to price point, again the Truglos are tough to beat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk