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M852

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Everything posted by M852

  1. That's a tough one. Just guessing here, but it sounds like either the Bluetooth connection is dropping or the app is crapping out because it gets an unexpected response from the chronograph. It's possible something like a Bluetooth power saving function is a contributing factor.
  2. Link is on the ProChrono Digital USB page. Just click on V 1.90 Software Download near the middle at the top.
  3. That's really weird if you can change the baud rate, but can only change it to 9600 or higher. You could look into changing the baud rate on the ProChrono side, but at that point you may just want to save your time, spend the $6-9 and get a different manufacturer's BT module. Edit: What response do you get from the BT module when you issue the AT+BAUD1 command?
  4. I'm not sure what terminal software/connection you're using, but when I was configuring mine the AT commands typed into the terminal window were not echoed (i.e., you couldn't see what you typed in the terminal window). They also had to be in ALL CAPS and typed very quickly. So, I typed the commands out in a text editor then copied and pasted them into the terminal window. Having said that, from the Guide: If that doesn't work I would take a look at the USB-to-TTL module. As mentioned in a previous post, connecting to HC05/06 chipsets with anything but CP2102-based USB-TTL converters is sketchy. You might want to check out the reviews on the Virtuabotix BT2S page and their configuration guide for some additional info that could help.
  5. I haven't been able to do much with it since my last post. Checking the baud rate is an interesting idea. I guess you could experiment with different baud rates to get it to connect. Otherwise, someone with programming expertise will need to look at the handshake between the two to see where it falls apart. Maybe watching the handshake between the official Bluetooth module and the Android app would reveal something?
  6. It's listed under the name Digital Link by Competition Electronics in the Sports category. The link above to the Google Play store doesn't work for you?
  7. Couple of updates: • The good news: For those of you who didn't know, CED's Digital Link Android app for CED's Digital Link Bluetooth adapter (mentioned above) has been posted on the Google Play store! • The bad news: I have not been able to get CED's Digital Link Android app to work with the DIY Bluetooth interface. The Digital Link app gets stuck on "Looking for Digital Link...." and goes no further. However, BenOz's test app installed on the same Android device will still connect to the DIY interface. At this point, I suspect there is an initial handshake of some type between the Digital Link app and the Digital Link Bluetooth adapter. However, I'm a hardware guy, so I've reached the limits of my expertise in figuring this out. If someone knows how to sniff the serial connection between the app and the interface it may shine some light on how the Digital Link app is establishing the connection. Knowing that, we may be able to update the DIY Bluetooth interface to be compatible with it.
  8. Interesting. Not sure about iOS, but the Android software shouldn't care what the TTL transport mechanism is (e.g., Bluetooth, USB, etc.) just like the PC software. I'm definitely not a programmer, but I believe that would have been the least complicated/most likely to succeed route. It would be most unfortunate if the Android or iOS apps didn't work with a DIY solution. Yeah, there is that. They should send me a unit for free to make up for it.
  9. Well, damn.... Kinda pricey but, hey, that app has more capabilities than the PC version.
  10. Dude, you just got the Chrony Hack of the Year Award! I've been stumped just trying to figure out how to add a power LED (not even multi-color) to my original design.
  11. Missed this the first time around. Would definitely be interested in pics of the hardware, etc..
  12. Make sure the 10k resistor is between the TXD (tip) and GND (sleeve) coming from the ProChrono side (on the BT2S side it would be between the RXD and GND). Take a look at the Wired Connections troubleshooting section at the end of the guide in the first post. I put some steps in there that may be helpful given what you've described. If you're still having trouble after that, I would get in touch with Virtuabotix tech support. They were solid gold when I was building and troubleshooting the prototype.
  13. Got an error trying to unzip the file(s). Repost or PM the file to me?
  14. If you've got a ProChrono Digital and an Android device you could try it with a Bluetooth interface and Android app.
  15. Hate it when I do that kind of stuff. The first note in the Troubleshooting section is there because I had to remind myself, not because I thought someone else needed it. Excellent! What power source are you using? I wonder how many mAh the LED uses and how that would affect battery life.
  16. If you've wired up the Kycon STX-3100-9C as shown in the post above, then yes, the LED on top of the Bluetooth module will blink rapidly when one end of the 1/8" cable is plugged into the Kycon STX-3100-9C and the other end left unplugged. I don't think it goes solid until it's communicating with the PCRemote software. I actually thought about that, but I didn't have any easy answers to the questions it raised (and I'm not an EE) so I punted. Having said that... Wiring it between the Kycon STX-3100-9C and the VIN on the voltage regulator would make sense to me. But, you'll have to decide whether you want to put it in-line or ground it out on the common ground. Also, you may need to put a resistor in there somewhere depending on the type of LED used. I'd love to hear any ideas or experiences for doing this if anyone has them.
  17. I remember reading somewhere on here that the RX line (line containing data coming from the ProChrono) should be tied to ground with a 10K resistor. I've encountered that myself when trying to read data from the ProChrono with an Arduino. I was getting no incoming data even though I could send commands out until I put the resistor in, then it all worked. Perhaps something to try if all else is failing. Might also try 1200 baud, as that's the native ProChrono serial speed acording to the published specs. He's working on the connection between the USB-to-TTL module and the Bluetooth module (vs. the Bluetooth module to ProChrono connection).
  18. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that connecting to HC05/06 chipsets with anything but CP2102 based converters is sketchy. Still, make sure you've got your wiring correct (i.e., TXD → RDX, RDX → TDX, etc.) and make sure the COM port you're connecting to in your terminal emulator is the COM port assigned to the USB converter. If that's all correct, try using a different terminal emulator. I tried several and at least one of them balked with the BT2S no matter how I configured it. Also, make sure the BT2S is in seek mode while configuring it - i.e., make sure it is not paired while trying to change the configuration. If none of that works, try a CP2102 based converter. If you're patient, you can get one on ebay from the pacific rim for less than $2. If you want it sooner, you can get one for ~ $5 from a US seller. Post your findings. It may help some other folks out.
  19. Since it's a Bluetooth option you may want to post it over in the DIY Bluetooth Interface for ProChrono Digital thread. Or just have an admin move it over.
  20. Check some earlier posts in this thread. I posted a link to the cable I bought and a link to the cable I would buy if I had to do it again. Both use FTDI chipsets. Edit: Links: What I ordered: FTDI TTL-232R-3V3-AJ What I should have ordered: TTL-232R-3V3-WE Rationale in the prior posts.
  21. Here's the schematic for a USB-to-TTL Module to 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo connector I used to check wired connections from a PC to the ProChrono Digital. It sounds like you've done this, but it bears repeating: make sure the TDX wire from the USB module/cable is connected to the RDX (ring) connector on the plug and make sure the RDX wire from the USB module is connected to the TDX (tip) connector on the plug. The 10k resistor is connected between the USB module RDX (TDX/tip on the plug) and the common ground. I got this wrong a couple of times during the builds and ended up learning the following: If you can change strings on the ProChrono Digital with the String Change button in PCRemote, the USB Module TXD to ProChrono Digital RXD connection is working. If you can change strings on the ProChrono Digital with the String Change button in PCRemote but the Get Statistics and/or Get Velocities button(s) do nothing, check to make sure you have the 10kΩ resistor connected between the TXD (tip) and GND (sleeve). It's entirely possible that your USB-to-TTL cable is not behaving. I recall reading somewhere that some folks had trouble with USB-to-TTL cables that weren't based on the FTDI chipsets. When when I was installing the PCRemote software it had FTDI chipset drivers with it, leading me to believe the USB dongle that comes with the ProChrono Digital USB Interface kit uses a FTDI chipset, too. Hope that helps.
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