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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

dferrier

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Everything posted by dferrier

  1. Thats for sure. Although I have used a lot of winchester with good results.
  2. Link to the above: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80237254/
  3. Another good site to check out is ammoguide.com. I use that for just about all my data.
  4. Absolutely they will rust. I have an old 550B that I got used like 1990 time frame that was rusty when I got it. Then we moved and left it in a box for like I don't know... 5 or 6 years... Wow was that a chore to get back in shape... The oil on the main ram was like congealed and I think I finally used carb cleaner to get it clean and then re-oiled it. The primer tube and all exposed parts were dusty and had some surface rust and so forth. But once I cleaned all the bearing surfaces and re-oiled/greased them that little press works like a charm. I am using it to reload my .338 Lapua Magnums on it, since that is the only Dillon press to officially support that caliber thus far... by the way, it is still rusty on some of the surfaces... never bothered to really clean all that off since it does not affect the presses functioning.
  5. I see this same kind of inconsistency when I am reloading .223 on my 1050. I ground down the sizer die and that seemed to help, but I still see some cases drop right in the gauge and others stick up just a little. I even called the helpful folks at ch4d.com looking for advice on maybe an undersized sizer die, and was told that oftentimes a press will "flex". I am beginning to think either I have extractor nicks in some of my cases causing them to stand up as has been noted in previous posts or my 1050 is flexing just a few thousands on some of the (maybe harder?) cases. I always thought the 1050 was the most stable but about the only way to be sure I guess is to set up an indicator on the tool head somehow to see if it does flex or not. Think I will do that when I get some time and figure out how to do it...
  6. Realized I had never finished this off. The bearing kit and adjustments virtually fixed the powder being knocked out of the case.
  7. Here is how this guy did it: Although you can't see his thumb or how he dropped the mag, but his muzzle didn't move much...
  8. Seems like this is more of a training/preference than a real advantage/disadvantage. What I mean is that for some shooters, it has become so ingrained to reposition their hands to drop the mag that it would not be of an advantage to try and retrain muscle memory to start using their index fingers. On the other hand of someone tries it (moving the mag drop to the right side first of course) and find that they can accomplish it better/faster/more efficiently then for them it would be of an advantage.
  9. I would have to agree with this. I never thought I would own a sig in 1911... until I tried one out. Right out of the box it had a better trigger than a custom Kimber for sale in the gun shop at the time. My particular one also came with 4 magazines and had the magwell already fixed up the way I would do it anyway, (whatever you call the funnel shape for magazine changes). It also came with tritium night sites and a light rail. And it was much less expensive than comparable guns similarly configured. And it has never failed to feed for me yet. Of course I will probably jinx myself now that I have said that...
  10. So what is up with the 45 ACP brass with small primers? Recently I had a batch which turned out to be about 35% small primers which is really annoying when your setup is for LPs. I was using the 650 so I was able to kind of feel when the large primer bumped on the up stroke (which really made me slow down after first couple ruined cases), but still... So is this going to be more of a short term thing do you guys think? Will 45 go all small primer eventually?
  11. If you decide to do this yourself here is a pretty good youtube showing how:
  12. I would venture to say the tumbler, if done indoors, is a major source of contamination. The dust will carry the lead compound residue, and that dust covers the whole area around the tumbler. For this reason I build an exhaust box around the tumbler. I made a transparent box out of acrylic, with a 6" exhaust duct with fan. Now any time I process the media or work the tumbler, I turn on the suction. Another thread was talking about using a little mineral spirits in the tumbling media to cut down on dust. I wonder if that would help with lead exposure as well?
  13. Ok thanks. I will give a try once I get the kit in.
  14. I have had the same problem of running dry on powder while loading 223 with a Mr Bullet Feeder installed. So once all the parts come in I plan on: - installing the powder check after the powder drop station - move MBF bullet dropper one station later - removing the separate seating and crimping dies - replace the last station left on the press with a combo seating and crimp die I will report back on how this works out for me once I get all the stuff in and installed/adjusted and so forth.
  15. Cool I'll try that Also try powdered Mica not talcum powder. The thing about talcum is that it will absorb moisture out of the air, which is not desirable. Mica won't do that (according to Rick of MBF fame anyway ) The mica you can get from Midway. I have the same problem and after using the mica MBF still does not really like cast bullets but things got a lot better anyway. Not nearly so many misfed bullets and the wax did not come off so readily and gunk up my bullet path. I would try about 1/8 teaspoon of the mica for 200-300 bullets in a plastic bowl or something and shake them around until it coats them really well then try in your MBF and see if that helps.
  16. I know this is a really old thread but ran across this somewhere and thought it would fit... http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com/#
  17. Ok thanks, one down...
  18. Oh yeah mineral spirits definitely helps IMHO of course.
  19. Once I get mine installed I will let you guys know how it worked but I feel confident as per Zombie's recommendations...
  20. Alright thanks Zombie. I will order one of those right now...
  21. I have had good luck with Reddot on 9, 40 and 45. And I like W231 when I can get it... but I agree that 231 seemed to be dirtier than Reddot.
  22. Thanks for that. I had not considered that aspect. So is it too loose or too tight?
  23. I ran across a reference to using the 500 S&W case feeding kit for this purpose. But I had not thought of the swage backup expander. Looking at diagrams of the two cartridges the Beowulf is 25 thousands taller than the 500 S&W, so maybe that will work on the Beowulf. Anyone have experience with any of this?
  24. I know that the case feeder won't work with this cartridge or at least that is what I have read. But beyond that what shellplate and case feeding kit should I get for the 1050 to reload this cartridge?
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