CSEMARTIN

Robert, I don't believe MichiganShootist was bashing IDPA. In fact, if I'm reading what he wrote correctly, he's pointing the blame at the club level. How could headquarters post information they don't have? Since you're here Robert, please give us your feelings on the current classification system. Do we need a GM classification in IDPA? Edited to add: I agree 100% with Shooterready!! I believe there needs to be a GM classification. Rob Leatham is a Singles Stack GM and a CDP Master. Come on people, get F$%^ing real.

What horsepower should I get? Is 1/4 enough? The 3/4 is twice as much, and the 1 horse is really pricey.

Joe, That's a great idea. In fact, I forgot to mention, I put a C&S trigger in it. It's one of their new triggers designed to decrease pretravel. It was originally in my Les Baer with an Extreme Engineering hammer, sear and disconnector when I had my first ever SLAMFRIRE. That was very exciting. Now I thinking it may be causing trouble in my Springer. Extreme Shot, I don't remember the lengths, but I remember that according to my Kuhnhausen manual, everything was within spec.

I should put the gun back together the way it was and get some video footage. There is no way to believe it unless you see it.

Thanks for the advice Matt. I want to ask (without sounding sarcastic, because I really don't know) what you mean by too fast? Is it a heat issue, or a 'whoops' I didn't mean to do that issue, or something else? I agree with getting as much as I can afford, but since the Baldors (at least my understanding) don't have a variable speed, I could drop several hundred bucks and have a buffer that goes from 0-3600 rpms's with one switch, and I may not want that?

I've been doing a lot of work on 1911 triggers. Just when I think I've got everything figured out, something unexpected and exciting happens. I bought a used Springfield Armory 9mm 1911. When I bought the gun, it was on the verge of going full auto. I stripped it down and discovered that the hammer hooks were filed down to 12 thousands. The primary engagement on the sear wasn't comforting either. Needless to say, I started with a new(er) hammer, sear and disconnector from a used set of trigger components I had left over from a Les Baer I had previously reworked. After all was said and done, I examined everything under a microscope- everything looked good. I assembled the pistol and begen dry firing the pistol. I was horrified to discover that the reset on the trigger was probably 1/32" --maybe even 1/64". I'm being serious. I barely moved my trigger finger and it reset. I took all those trigger components out. There is no way that is safe. I can't figure out WHY the reset is so short. It's got me all confused. Please........tell me your thoughts on this!

I'm getting ready to start my first 1911 build, and I'm going to buy a Baldor Buffer. The only problem is I can't make up my mind which one to get. I do not want anything that is 3 phase. It has to be functional in my basement with the electricity available to me. What should I buy? Half horse, 3/4 horse, one horse? On a side note, my milling instructor told me to get one that runs around 1700 rpm's because anything faster will will affect the metal's finish from blueing properly. He told me that he had a shotgun that turned out red after he had polished the barrel with a 3600 rpm buffer. Now, I'm no expert on blueing, but my understanding is that if your blue job turns out red it is because the temperature of the blueing tank got out of whack. I had never heard that a polish job can affect your blueing job, but before I discount it, I thought I would throw that one out here as I am just about completely ignorant on these matters. There is not point to argueing with the guy that is grading me. Thanks for the help.

I just can't wait until my kids are old enough to be in school. It's going to be great.... If my kid ever gets suspended for defending himself against a bully, I'll reward him (and give the principal a phone call he'll never forget).

Edited to add: I should have taken my concerns to the match director during the match rather than slamming the match here a week later.

Yes, it has been lightened. Duane, what are you thinking? Am I missing something??

Did Donnie shoot?

I set up a chrono, and this time I was getting wider variance in velocity between shots. I don't get it!!!! Do the higher end chronographs come with a manual that explains evertyhing. The ammo I was shooting didn't change. Just the equipment, temperature, etc. This is driving me nuts.

I have changed my mind about the Liberator, and I apologize if you bought one because of what I said. I have spoken with the Liberator people, and they will refund your money. After several hours at the range, I noticed three problems. First, as you are shooting around a barricade, wall, etc. the light will point at your "cover" instead of your target unless you lean out further. Second, the adjustable hing that allows you to adjust where your light is pointing is very flimsy. Third, if your light isn't pointed just perfect, all you will see is a cloud of smoke. Other than those things and the cost, it's a great light. My liberator light is headed back to where it came as soon as I get home.

Here ya go GRANDMASTER: Fiber Optic Front Sight Excellent light gathering capability and enhances front sight acquisition. Dovetail .330 X 65 degrees, .125 wide post, .185 high, .060 diameter. Red and green fiber optic. Taken from: http://www.lesbaer.com/parts4.html

Thanks Robert!! That's as good an answer as I could ask for. I'm glad to hear the news-especially since I just bought one. I've been playing around with my Liberator flashlight tonight. IT IS AWESOME. FAST. SLICK. BRIGHT. ADJUSTABLE. HANDS FREE. I'm impressed. If you're shooting CDP, it probably won't help you and you should save your money!!!

I have experimented with both. The Dawson is brighter. All you have to do is call Dawson and tell them it's for a Baer. They'll send you the one you need.

I ordered one today. We'll see how it goes. I think I'll still plan to bring my surefire just in case. Edited to add: I'm with you guys. Shooting dark or low-light stages with inexperienced shooters is anxiety provoking.

Gene Shuey series. It's on DVD. Brownells special ordered it for me.

That's exactly what I was thinking!!!

I think every IDPA rule's thread I've ever started has gotten shut down by the boss. In all sincerity, I'm trying to figure out if I should drop $200 bucks and get one. I realize I run the risk of a match Director telling me that this flashlight doesn't conform to the "SPIRIT" of IDPA.

I bought their plate rack. It's really nice and well worth it for $150.00

What do you guys think? Is the liberator flashlight legal for IDPA? I've searched the rulebook, and the only thing I can find is that the light can't be mounted to the gun. Or does this flashlight make a travesty of the sport? Here is a link to the light I'm talking about: http://www.first-light-usa.com/liberatormain.php

Thanks everyone for your input. And thank you Doug for your offer to help chrono my ammo. Those of you that know me will probably tell those of you that don't know me that I'm extremely anal retentive about my reloading practices. I do have a chronograph. In fact, I use it quite frequently. The reason I posted this thread is because I'm looking for something official. Something you'd see at a major match. A high quality chronograph inside a box with controlled lighting, etc... I realize there are multiple variables affecting velocity of our bullets- temperature, brand of power, consistency of charge, the gun being fired, cleanliness of the barrel, etc. The problem I have is the freezing cold here in Iowa. While I'm perfectly willing to drop $200 bucks on a nice chrono, I'm not willing to build a box and set up lighting inside that box, and take it the FREEZING COLD range close to my house every time I want to test a load. I'll bet a lot of you do what I do. Take your cheap chrono to the range, set it up on a table and hope for the best..... That's what I do. And I've started to wonder if the variance I'm seeing can be blamed on the weather, my reloading practices, etc. or if the variance I'm seeing should be blamed on my chrono practices. I've noticed a variance in velocity from one match to another at the chrono stage while none of the variables has changed except the chrono. I have been trying to come up with the best method to consistently drop the same powder charge. I have also been working on consistent OAL and crimp. So far, getting a consistent OAL has proven fairly easy as well as the crimp. However, my biggest probelm has been a consistent powder charge. Perhaps it is the powder I'm using, but I like it so I'm sticking with it. I noticed a significant variance using the stock Dillon powder measure so I bought a $250+ dollar Redding Competition Powder Measure. After some extensive testing I came to the conslusion that while it is much slower, it isn't any better than the stock Dillon Powder Measure. If you don't believe me, it's for sale. Buy it and prove it to yourself! I did some searching on this forum and found a thread by Tom Freeman about polishing the powder measure. I took the powder measure apart and started polishing. I polished parts that don't even have a part number on Dillon's website. I drilled a hole to access a part that probably wasn't meant to be removed. I got f#$%cking crazy with this powder measure. I also installed the uniquetek micrometer and powder baffle (which I also polished). I also installed the uniquetek toolhead locking kit (sorry I don't know the official name of this item). When all was said and done, I discovered that my reloads are all within 3 fps of each other. The only problem is they don't make power factor. And the chrono I was using the day I checked velocity wasn't my chrono, but it was a nice CED chrono set up indoors. But the chrono kept givng error messages. Since this is a load I've used for 3 years, and it's always made power factor, and since it registered multiple error messages, I'm thinking that I shouldn't trust this data..... Having the velocities come in within 3 fps of each other is encouraging, but not making power factor is rather unsettling. The whole purpose of this thead was to see if there is anyone out there that will chrono your ammo using good equipment with controlled lighting. At least for me it would be some piece of mind.

+1 on what HSMITH said.

Is there anyone out there that will chrono your ammo using good equipment with a proper setup for a small fee? It would be nice to send someone a few rounds, $5 bucks, an e-mail address and wait for the results.