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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by CSEMARTIN

  1. Yes, I sincerely believe there is a functional difference.
  2. I was considering tumbling with these pins. Thanks for this thread! I'm not going to use them now. Screw this!
  3. This is my Carter FS-1. It's a San Mai constructed knife with a blue steel core sandwiched between spring steel.
  4. I have a stupid question. Are you using the .45 bullet to add weight? I am assuming this is to get a better mark on the brass.
  5. I came across these youtube videos with some Dillon 650 mods I haven't seen before: Check out the 5 minute mark: And a video of the primer stop switch:
  6. Check out the thread called XL650 Tips and Tricks. It’s jam packed full of good stuff. Keep an eye out for my update. I found more upgrades that look very promising. I’m working on a post and there is a lot I’m going to add to that thread when I can.
  7. I'm thinking that "during a course of fire" would apply to everyone on the range at that stage.
  8. I won't even stand sideways when someone is shooting. These guys are just asking for trouble.
  9. This is my Murray Carter neck knife. It's damascus with a Hitachi White Steel core.
  10. I remember reading in multiple threads on hammer follow that the grip screws on these wide bodies can cause an issue. There are several hammer follow threads full of good information on things you can look for. The one thing I didn't see mentioned very often was the hammer spring. Another idea was to place a piece of masking tape on the sear spring to snug up the contact between the sear spring and the MSH. Check your hammer hook depth with a feller gauge and make sure it is at least 18 thousandths. The sear should make equal contact with the hooks. You might try adding more pressure the the sear leg(left) of the sear spring. Check to make sure the hammer hooks are square. You may also be getting trigger bounce. Also, check the mainspring cap. Sometimes the strut can chew it up and I have read here that-that can cause an issue. There a lots of things that can cause hammer follow, and there are several threads on this topic that are very helpful. Good luck.
  11. Best way to check is mark with dykem or a sharpie marker, reassemble and cycle the gun. That’ll tell you where things are hitting.
  12. I think what Diver123 is saying is that it is an absolute fact that he was told by an instructor that you can't get DQed for muzzling yourself at the safe table. I agree with Sarge that others may have a different opinion and take a different course of action.
  13. Sarge, I was unaware that Redding sold a die without the micrometer. Just curious.....why not use the micrometer? I love mine.
  14. I've always thought requiring only 50 posts is very generous of Brian. If it were my call, I'd make it much more. If someone's sole intention is just to come here and use this forum to sell things, maybe they shouldn't be here to begin with. This forum isn't about selling things. It's a luxury that should be earned.
  15. I would tend to agree with this, but I do think the USPSA rules are open to interpretation on this. 10.5.5 isn't clear to me, and I think it could be argued either way. Since the course of fire is over and the pistol has been verified to be clear, I would argue that it isn't sweeping under the rules. However, I could see some an RO having a different interpretation if he/she saw your hand in front of the barrel. My Les Baer with a 16# recoil spring won't finish 10 stages without at least one trip to the safe area for a gentle cleaning with q-tips and a bore snake. Doing it this way has resulted in 100% reliability.
  16. I'm not 100% on what the best sizing die is for 9mm because I am currently struggling with my Dillon sizing die, but I am certain the Redding Competition seating die and the LFCD are the way to go. I have been reading here that others are happy with their Mighty Armory dies. https://www.mightyarmory.com/ In addition to your setup, I'd highly recommend a case gauge if you don't have one already.
  17. I’m still trying to figure this one out too. 10.5.5 doesn’t say what happens after the course of fire is over.
  18. I agree with this. Yes, Mike's research focused on the buckle and strap tourniquets. I agree this research should not be used to make purchase decisions on all tourniquets. I have no opinoin on windlass tourniquets. I can't argue with that logic. Spend the extra 20 bucks.
  19. Your powder measure isn't lined up right correctly. Rotate the powder measure clockwise until the rod lines up straight with the shoulder washer. The powder bar should also return smoothly. http://dillonhelp.com/Dillon Manual PDFs/Dillon-RL550B-September-2010.pdf I clip the wings off the blue stripper wing nut. I set the wing nut and secure with two nuts sandwiched between a lock washer.
  20. Welcome to the forum RT! I am enjoying this thread. Thank you.
  21. ClayBuster, Can you post a photo of the brace you made?
  22. Here is a link for more information: https://www.bleedingcontrol.org/
  23. Strong mount, roller handle, carbide size die, Redding competition seat die and Lee Factory crimp die.
  24. Joe, A tourniquet is used to save someone from bleeding to death. Whether or not to say it is a last ditch effort would depend on the person and their background. There are situations where I would feel very comfortable attempting to control bleeding without a tourniquet. Others may not or probably won't be able to control bleeding without a tourniquet. I don't believe a tourniquet means they will automatically lose a limb. Timing is a factor. Getting someone to the hospital will become a top priority after a tourniquet is applied. Yes, the link to the tactical tourniquet is the one to get. When I was in my surgical training, we did not use tourniquets. There has been a paradigm shift in recent years. "Playing it safe" is valid argument for using a tourniquet in my opinion.
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