SWLover

I'm not too sure if this is do-able as per the rules, but if I'm out of line the forum managers can delet the post. I found bullets at this site. They sponser a friend in his shooting competition. They are really inexpensive in price. Maybe they will advertise on the forum. http://lucky13bullets.com/ They are just a few miles from my home in NC.

Thanks guys, This Caspian is my first 1911 with a compensator. I'll follow your suggestions. You all have been a great help! Superdude, I appreciate the links. After reading the info provided in the links I now have a greater understanding of what you guys were telling me. I appreciate the powder suggestions also.

Re: GrumpyOne, My Caspian is identical to the 38 super you pictured. OK, I read every reply. I tried to cover every detail on the Caspian, but I failed to tell all. First, When the Caspian did eject the empty, it sent it forward, I mean straight forward. When the gunsmith said the ejection port was to small, I realized he was right. Then to the discussion about springs, I changed the sping to 11 #s and that was no help. I even cut off several rounds during the time I spent running the test. When I got it back from the smith, he had 7 or 8 spings included in a bag. He obviously tried many. Before I came to this forum, I came across a section of the 38/357 portion that spoke to reloads for the 38 super. I am not a seasoned reloader, only novice. I have reloaded several thousand 38's and about 500 38 supers. I have about 5 pounds of Hogdon Titegroup as powder is hard to come by in our area. Then Mike 4045 commented about 160PF and I'm in need of someone explaining that as I am lost. I have a Lee precision scale ordered and planned to work up a load that would meet or slightly exceed 38 super +P loads. I use a Lee progressive reloader and have studyied the disk capacities in CC and then converted to grains. Hogdon gives the minimum load as 4.2 grains and the max as 6.1. Are you guys saying that the max is still too light? I'm going to add one note to this as I'm wondering...I have two Kimbers in 38 super, one in 4" and the other in 5". They seem to perform well with the standard round and with +P and my reloads with 4.2 grains. I'll know more come the end of the week after range time. I want to add one note. I favor 38/357/38 supers. I even shoot 38 supers in my lever 38/357's. Rossi & Henry's S&W 60-14's and the S&W 686. As long as the ejector grabs the ring, I shoot them.

I bought a 1994 Caspian. It is without a doubt the most accurate and easy 1911 that I have shot. It is equiped with a muzzle brake and red-dot sight. It would fail to cycle each time I took it to the range. So, I worked with it for several weeks and finally took it to a gunsmith that is noted for his abilities to repair 1911's. First thing out of hiis mouth is that the ejection port is too small and needed to be opened. He kept it for several weeks and finally got to shoot it. He confirmed what I had told him, it just would not eject the empty. He said the slide was not traveling far enough to the back. He changed springs numerous times but got no where with the spring issue. He finally decided to try 38 super + P and then he finally got it to cycle. He said it was the first 1911 he had worked on with such a awesome muzzle brake. He thoroughly went thru the 1911 and had it working very slick. He ran 38 super + P and he suggested I run + P. and it appeared the brake was causing the problem. Now I'm going to try to load some + P with Hogdon Titegroup using 124 grain Jacketed bullets. Anyone with any suggestion, I'm all open to try anything.

Toothguy: "I wasn't sure why you would want to shoot 38 super (.356) in a .357 J frame. There are so many loads available with the correct ammunition. I guess in an emergency?" I get the same fire power that one would get with a 357 when using 38 super and the cost is quiet a bit less. Of course there is always the 38 standard or + P.

Toothguy, You are correct, but check the specs on a 357 and then match it to a 38 super. There is only a minute difference. The 38 super has a smaller rim and that is about the only difference. On most 357's, the 38 super falls into the cylinder, but...when loaded into a 60-14, they are caught by the ejector. Then after fired, they eject fine. I have two 60-14's and they both work well with 38 super. Of course you get the same recoil as with a 357 in the J frame. Before I bought my 60-14's I checked to see if the ejector caught the 38 super first. I only wish my Dan Wesson would have been suitable to shoot 38 supers in, but it wasn't.

Maybe you guys should try the S&W model 60-14. Shoots the 38 super and ejects them just fine. Cost....about $600

I have been a 38 super fan for a long time now. Problem is that ugly new S&W super. Well, I know I'm going to get rash for this, but here goes..... My Kimber and Colt 1911's are just too big for me to carry. I have checked many revolvers to see if they will eject a 38 super shell, and low and behold the S&W model 60-14 357 does eject the shell. So off to the range I go......oh me it is so sweet! Both of my 60-14's shoot them very well. But, you do so at your own risk like I did. The ballistics of the 30 super almost match the 357 and are much cheaper to shoot.