wmetzler01

Thanks Mike!!!!

Thank you Sir!!!

Great information! I just moved to Lantana TX from Rhode Island, can you recommend any good places to practice? I'm looking for a place that has pistol pits, I can set-up a mini stage/drills, and draw from a holster. Thank you for your time! Will

Where you guys buying the carbide from?

That's normal for a 2011; I have the same thing on my strong hand - my right hand. After a few thousand rounds it will callous and you'll be fine. You can modify the gun as others have mentioned, or just go the easy route and slap a band aide on the spot getting pinched or wrap the pinched area with some tape like golfers and basketball players do.

I've owned an Dawson tuned edge, own an Aperio, and a DVC all in 40 s&w; the DVC is the best of them all. Better trigger, ignition parts, better grip, tool less guide rod, more durable coating on barrel, more accurate, and I'm faster shooting it than the Aperio. If I were to do it again I'd get a tuned DVC from Atlas with a metal grip or a Brazos fully worked edge.

I've had many STI's and even more Audi's, I can say without a doubt STI is not equal to Audi in quality. I can even say more confidently an STI from Brazos, Barsto, or Dawson is better than what you get from the STI factory with the exception of the new DVC as it is pretty good out of the box (I've had a few of each of these). A better analogy is an STI is like a corvette Z06/7, it is a good value and performs well but it has some stupid things going on from a fit and finish perspective. It sucks the op dropped a bit of cash and got a lemon and unfortunately this happens no matter what you buy. Hell I've seen folks have issues with new SVI's. If STI is not taking care of you, take your cash and go some place else as there are some great options out there.

Solid upgrades. Lots of fitting to get it to work? What's the end result like?

Yeah agreed, solid out of the box but needed to work the slide to frame fit more on mine.

Wow that is a big difference when you see a side by side view... Although I do like that STI has a bit more radius on the inside of the barrel, but I agree they've removed a lot. That is a high impact area, you need some thickness there. It must be faster to cut there than to cut multiple spots on the hood. (Totally guessing)

The big three factors that impact 1911/2011 accuracy are: slide to frame fit, barrel to frame/slide fit, and trigger. Of the three, the first 2 are critical and if you get those wrong the accuracy will suffer as will performance and reliability. Yes there are other factors that impact accuracy but all gunsmiths and the AGI agree these are most critical. I can only talk to my Aperio that has the AET barrel: the out of battery lock-up was slightly out of spec as I stated in my post above. A bit of stoning to the barrel lugs and the points of lock-up on the barrel and I'm in spec at .040; within the .025/.050 spec. Second item was the slide relief for the island was cut too tight, some light stoning and this is fixed as well. The last item I'm fixing then I will test it again is the trigger & ignition kit which will make it a better match up to the DVC (although I should swap the recoil spring while I'm at it). As for yours, you could have any of the issues I mentioned above or others such as a defective barrel, seating crimping dye issues, plus something else we don't know. Pushing all the data aside, the most important metric is how it "feels" in your hand. For me, having so much weight on the nose of the gun with no counter weight in the handle or rear exaggerated a bad habit I have of occasionally sending a shot low. I didn't like this feeling so much I almost sold the gun, but I'm going to enhance a few items and see if it improves. Pro shooters change equipment all the time mostly because of sponsorship deals: what matters the most in the end is how the gun feels to you...

Thats the issue. A good gun should eat any ammo, long oal or short oal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Great point, one just assumes it's acceptable to load long; shouldn't have to do that...

That is what I have

I've got 3k through my 40 DVC, no issues - it just likes a long c.o.a.l.

I should be able to fix the problem, but if I can't I can send it back or have it accu railed. Of the two, it'd be worth it to have it accu railed. Not sure if I want STI messing with this again as their processes for this product are still evolving. If it were the DVC, it would go right back as they are very skilled with the standard products. Again, I'm not shitting on STI as I have purchased many of their guns -and I will buy many more - just like to see the QC tighten up on the Apeiro.

I have both a DVC and Aperio in 40 s&w and the DVC is more accurate. But in fairness, they are not marketed as the same product as the DVC is the "out of the box racer" and Aperio is not marketed the same way. Although load is a factor for accuracy, there are other variables that I haven't seen anyone mention in this thread (not saying anyone here doesn't know what these variables are and not trolling). Looking at the Aperio, here's the differences I've seen: The barrel lock up and fitting to the frame : there is more machining in fitting the barrel due to the relief required for the island. The ideal lock-up to 1/8 inch out of battery is between .025 to .050; my Apeiro is at .058 (my DVC is .47). Further inspection reveals STI did not machine the slide enough as there are chatter marks on both sides of the island, as well as, excessive wear on points on top of the barrel. Although the DVC has more machining in slide and frame cuts, the Aperio is the only product in the STI line-up that has this extra element (the island barrel) and their processes are still evolving to mass produce high quality for the Aperio. If they didn't have issues in sourcing the barrels, I think they would have this hammered out by now. I'm in the process of fixing these issues. The Aperio recoil spring is a dual spring recoil master vs. the single spring in the DVC. I'm in the process of fixing this as well. The Aperio does not have the double undercut trigger guard on the DVC; I'm ordering an SVI metal grip with a double undercut trigger guard so I won't have it until the end of Q1 2016. The ignition kit is not the same as the DVC as it has a lightened hammer and worked trigger. I'll have this fixed in the next 2 months. The point I'm making is it is not an apple to apples comparison as the DVC is specifically built to be an out of the box race gun and the Aperio is not marketed to be, nor built to be, an out of the box race gun. The question I have is when both platforms have the same parts, will the DVC still perform better?

Why not both? Buy a 34 then buy a 17 upper for carry or to try at range or in competition. That's the beauty of glock.

I have a nitro fin, used it on my Aperio, but don't use it any more. The product works well and I like it; however, I was having problems with my grip on my ccw as I was becoming too reliant on the thumb rest. Now I have one grip for both my competition gun and my ccw. I may use it again in the future as I do like the product.

Without seeing it, sounds like you need to sand/file a bit to get it to fit which is normal.

Your thumb dragging on the slide as it cycles can mimic a weak spring as it limits the action just like a weak spring would do. Another possible cause, aside from the mag spring listed above which is a good observation, could be your feed ramp not having the right radius - it may be fine with most loads but a hollow point or more squared bullet could be causing the issue, still another could be the chamber not being correctly shaped. It's very hard to guess without being physically present to view the gun. Wasn't trying to sound like a dick when I suggested looking at a few videos, but it can be helpful.

I'd shoot two mags with the gun rested on a bag or bench to see if the jam occurs. Said another way, shoot with your strong hand thumb no where near the left safety. If no jam, then it could be your thumb so install a thumb guard on your left safety. There's tons of YouTube videos out there that will illustrate what's happening.

I'd also check the hammer sear engagement for excessive wear or breakage in addition to the spring as beer baron mentioned. AGI has some good videos you can purchase on troubling shooting problems with your pistol. If you're not comfortable with any of the suggestions, find a good gunsmith or send it back to STI. Are you the first owner of this pistol?

You've answered your question already - by an svi. If you buy an svi, you can have them make a 9mm upper for it and swap between 45 and 9mm. Or just purchase the 9mm svi.

When I used Lyman green it always stuck in primer pockets for 40 s&w and I had to go through every shell and push them out

Any you guys shooting this? When you crack them open how do they look (e.g. are there tons of tooling marks, do they take the time to clean them, barrel fit is solid and no wiggle). I've got many 2011's and looking for a decent idpa esp shooter and trying to learn more. Thanks!