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I run my spring at 6 inches past the top of the tube. Brownels has the springs I like. The wire diameter is smaller and is softer than the Nordic. You have too much spring pressure on a fully loaded tube to release the first shell. Buy a few new springs, they are cheap. Experiment with various lengths till the gun will eject the first and the last shell.

I have the same cart. Yes take the canopy off. It just gets in the way. If it rains a golf umbrella covers it completely. I also took off the guard on the front wheel and anchored a plastic Ammo box there. I used eye bolts on each side of the box then attached turn buckles to the frame. Set the box in place and connect the hooks of the turn buckle to the eye bolts. Tighten them and I'm good to go. All my Ammo and mags go in the box and you range bag goes in the seat. And yes turn them guns muzzle down. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tac shotgun is all about counting and planning. When the last shot is fired and it's time to unload and show clear, you should have only a couple rounds left in the gun. If you have more than that you wasted precious time loading when you didn't need to. Just have fun and tame the fickle bitch that is the shotgun. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Count your rounds, you don't want to run the gun dry. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You would have to try very hard to beat taccom. Price and quality not to mention fast delivery.

Use the original JB Weld. It takes the longest to dry. Didn't thin it down at all. I found grit at a local hobby shop. It's coarse grit for rock polishing. It is 80 grit silicone carbide. About $12.00 for a pound. You could do a lot of grip jobs with a pound.

I used blue painters tape. I agree with Loganbill about removing the tape before the JB Weld is fully cured. I did a pmag and let it sit for a couple days and the tape was a bitch to remove. Next time I'm going to try that green Frog tape. It seems a bit thicker. Yes I did press the edges down tight.

No, I don't think it would add any strength to the grip. Although I have yet to actually fire the gun. The layer of JB Weld is pretty thin. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes I did it all in one shot. I spread the epoxy with a brush so it was pretty thin. Then sprinkled the grit on. Didn't press on the grit because another poster stated that it could cause the epoxy to ooze out over the grit. Let it dry for 24 hours and took the tape off. Then brushed it with a soft tooth brush. Surprisingly not much of the grit came off. I did practice on a pmag first to see how things worked. I man handled that pmag after it was dry and I don't see this stuff coming off ever. As to adding thickness, remember you grind off the original grip texture so I didn't notice any added girth to the grip. I'm going to shoot this gun Saturday at a match so we will see just how it feels. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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My first attempt, 80 grit silicone carbide with JB Weld. Pretty happy with how it came out. Nice and grippy. I'll be shooting it this weekend so we will see how it goes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ok, I've been looking at a few different forums since I read yours. I'm thinking of doing this. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Does that come as a sheet? Cut out as needed. Really, JB Weld ? Never would have thought of that. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I opened mine up quite a bit. To the point that a 1/4 inch or so of the follower was exposed. Also I quad load weak hand so the side opposite the bolt release I lowered it way down. Never was effected by the trigger guard. In fact the trigger guard would be of the same orientation with the port opened or not. I did weld the lifter as well. I know it can be a daunting task taking a dremmel to a nice working shotgun. The reward will be worth it. Sorry I don't have any pics but there are plenty out there if you look.

Got mine today. Put them on my Nova and JM 930. They fit great and look good. I'll get a pic later for you guys. Super fast shipping. Tim is really out front on the shotgun stuff. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I was thinking the same thing. I have 2 coming my way. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Are you making them without the rail on the side as well?

Get yourself the wire brush that Jerry uses in that video. I got one from Brownells. It says it's for the Remington 11-87 but it fits perfect in the piston tube on the 930 barrel. This is a common place for carbon to build up and prevent the piston from going all the way in. This causes the bolt not to lock up and the trigger will not function. I found this out the hard way. Just a few turns with the wire brush and the carbon is gone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have been quad loading for the past year. Up here in Minnesota winter is practice time. I also have been trying different angles and grips to master the quad. One thing I found that helps me is (weak hand load) bringing the loading port closer to my body. Tucking more of the stock under my arm. For some reason I get a better look and have a smoother motion. There is no hard fast method to doing the quad and each shooter will have they're own approach. Practice is the key. Work at it till your hands hurt, put it down and go at again the next day. Also make sure you practice moving while loading. Climb and descend some stairs, move around the house, use what you have to simulate a stage environment. Bottom line is, practice makes perfect. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What you need to do is buy a few new springs. Brownels has the best that I found. After you trim the spring to 12 inches try to see if it will load the first round. If not clip off a coil. Try it again. Once you are successful then make sure it will release the last round as well. If along the way you mess up and cut too much off then start over using a new spring. Springs are cheap so make sure you have several to start with. I had the same problem with my JM and did this method till I got it right. Now I know just what length works for my gun. I run a +9 Nordic tube on mine so I can't help you with a length that will work for you. Oh, I did polish the shell stop on mine as well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Maybe it was luck but the lady that tested my eyes was more than receptive to writhing a script for shooting glasses. Right lens for focusing on the front sight, she used a pencil as a focusing point, and the left lens for distance. All you can do is ask. Also I have to put these glasses on an hour or so before a match to get my brain in synch with my eyes. What a difference the glasses have made for me. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Same here. Powder coated Boolits. No leading, trace of paint in barrel, came clean with one stroke of a bore snake. That was after 100 rounds with an velocity of 900 fps Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes I still size them. After powder coating using a Lee push through sizer. My 9's are .357 the 38's are .358. Yes I can use this one boolit for 2 calibers.

I powder coat all my cast boolits. Usually keep my 9's under 1200 fps and my 38's under 1000 fps. No leading or smoke with powder coat. I even ran 100 through my Glock 19 with no leading at all. Go to Cast Boolits . Com to learn more. Also I use wheel weights with 3% pure tin added.

I've been seating mine like that for years now. Like you I was leery but no problems. Just make sure they fit in the mag tho.