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PursuitSS

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Everything posted by PursuitSS

  1. They CLAIM less, I can’t tell any difference.
  2. I’ll have to take photos of the current configuration. This is before numerous changes... https://i.imgur.com/h10HArA.jpg[/img]
  3. I had installed an SJC Titan Titanium Brake/Compensator on my wife’s AR to reduce recoil. At the time it was tested to be the most effective Brake/Compensator available. Well, I was surfing the net and found out SJC had came out with a NEW Brake, the SJC Titan Extreme. They were claiming a 20% further reduction in recoil over their original Titan. So I order it and install it on my wife’s AR. I have to say it IS more effective! I’ve done just about every trick to keep her AR light and recoil free. It also has ZERO muzzle climb. Barrel - Voodoo Innovations 16.5” w/Rifle Length Gas System Carrier - 2A Armament Titanium/Aluminum Hybrid Recoil System - J.P. Enterprises SCS Gen 2 w/85% Spring (I installed the 85% spring to get it to lock open on an empty mag using Tula .223, if it works with that it will run with anything) The weight is just over Six pounds and it has virtually ZERO recoil.
  4. Last time I looked it wasn’t on their web site, glad it’s still available.
  5. Trying to reduce buffer weight, has anyone tried running the J.P. Enterprises SCS Gen 2 without the weights? It still wouldn’t be as light as the discontinued taccon plastic buffer.
  6. I know this is an OLD topic, but I just ran across it. I have a Dillon RL1050, Detroit Ammo offers a shellplate for 5.7x28 for it. There is NO WAY I’d consider loading 5.7x28 on a progressive press. Only on a single stage press, if properly loaded and mildly charged you can get 5 - 8 loadings per casing.
  7. Yeah, it's as light as my 1982 Smith Enterprises aluminum carrier....3.9 ounces for the stripped carrier.
  8. Reported weight is 3.8 ounces!!! https://www.facebook.com/BOOMFAB?ref=ts&fref=ts
  9. I have way too many BCM charging handles, why? Because I need to change them to the Raptor! There is absolutely nothing that compares to the Raptor.
  10. There was a "Group Purchase" of ABS Carbon Fiber wrapped barrels on AR15.com. A lot of issues, long delivery time, the delivered barrels had several issues including accuracy, the wrap shrinking away from the ends so the barrel, poorly rifled, etc. IF I was going to purchase one I would look to Christensen Arms.
  11. Brownells offers Silver Solder PASTE, it is powdered Silver Solder mixed with flux. It is an easy process, and properly done will not harm the barrel. Here is a GREAT Thread on AR15.com on the subject http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/407395_Perm_Attached_FH_with_1100_degree_silver_solder.html
  12. Even though I don't shoot 3 gun, the mags I use for on Duty are: 30 rd Colt (manufactured by Okay Industries) 30 rd Okay Industries I change the follower to the Magpul Gen III and add the Magpul Ranger L baseplate I also LIGHTLY spray the inside of the magazine with Remington DriLube, it is a Teflon spray that drys completely and leaves a light dry coating of Teflon on the inside of the magazine. DO NOT CONFUSE THIS PRODUCT WITH REMLUBE! NEVER use oil on the inside of a magazine.
  13. UPDATE - I received another email from Rubber City Armory, they stated that the correct weight stripped is 6.9 ounces. I'm staying with J.P. Enterprises unless someone starts offering aluminum or titanium carriers again.
  14. I had my 3# Timney Trigger in one of my AR's. I just switched it to my ARFCOM AR-15 Billet Lower Receiver. Strange thing occurred, it feels like the trigger pull dropped to around 1.5#'s. The only thing that's different is I didn't CRANK the set screws down hard that bear against the bottom of the receiver floor and I used Spike's Tactical KNS Anti-Walk pins. Spike's has the trigger & hammer pins Melonited, so they would have less "drag". I have fired several hundred rounds through it in the last few days with no issues, any thoughts or concerns? Both my 25 yr old son and my 14 yr old son confirm it is MUCH lighter.
  15. Thank you for the information about the JP LMOS ,but I would like to hear from someone who is using the RCA carrier if they should agree to this BCG being inferior to the JP. Thanks You may have a hard time finding someone who has one considering that the J.P. LMOS owns the lightweight carrier market.
  16. I just received an answer back from Rubber City Armory. The weight of their "lightweight" carrier is 6.4 ounces. Here is a photo of a J.P. Enterprises LMOS carrier on a laboratory scale:
  17. I would bet that the weight listed is for JUST the carrier. I don't fathom how anyone could get way below the weight of the J.P. Enterprises LMOS carrier using steel. I've emailed them for clarification on the weight.
  18. My "go to" magazines for Duty are 30 round Okay Industries magazines modified with the Magpul Gen III Follower and the Magpul Ranger L Floor plate. That is just about as reliable as it gets. One thing to keep in mind is that Colt, and NHMTG Magazines are all manufactured by Okay Industries.
  19. Here's what works for me, LMOS Carrier, full gas, Wolff XP Action Spring. When the carrier goes forward I wouldn't want a finger in the way!
  20. I've played around with lightweight carriers for Decades, probably before many of you were born. The first lightweight carrier I used was a Smith Enterprises aluminum carrier, they were manufactured to jump the cyclic rate of an M-16 to 1400 rpm. And, it did work for that purpose! I'm currently running on several of my AR's the J.P. LMOS QPQ Carrier (and will have it on all of them when I can afford them) I also run the Wolff XP Action spring and I do not run an adjustable gas block. Original Colt M-16 Bolt Carrier Smith Enterprises Aluminum Carrier Progressive Machine & Tool Titanium Carrier J.P. Enterprises LMOS QPQ Carrier
  21. My wife ran a Comp (S&H of Oklahoma) on her competition HK MP-5. She was convinced it helped her win the Fall 1997 Knob Creek Sub Gun Open. I couldn't tell any difference, but then again, I wasn't "dialed in" like she was. She was able to fire single shots regularly while on Full Auto. (Cyclic rate - 820 rpm)
  22. Staking the Carrier Key Screws is a requirement of the TDP (Technical Data Package). This is how the Military "specs" M-16',. M-4's, etc. If you order the screws from one of the vendors who certify their fasteners the odds of one failing (if properly installed) are infinitesimal. I HAVE had carrier key screws come loose (J. P. Enterprises Grade III), I've never had a screw break! You can purchase a Inch Pounds Torque Wrench from Harbor Freight for $20.00, A staking tool is going to cost $60-$75, 650 degree Loctite 2620 is EXPENSIVE! Around $40 a tube with shipping, BUT Loctite 271 is worthless because of the 250 degree rating.
  23. Let me ask this: "Why is this important". Your post is an opinion and many people would disagree with you, staking is not essential. Lots of guys dont want staked carrier key screws for reasons that have been covered here on BEnos before. If your AR is a range toy, staking is not required, if it goes into harms way...YES IT'S REQUIRED!!!! I have had gas keys come loose and turn the rifle into a straight pull manually operated gun! First I use NEW beyond Grade 8 Torx Plus screws, then I clean the screw holes in the carrier with acetone. Then I coat the screws with Loctite 2620 (650 degrees rated)(your standard hardware store 271 Loctite WILL FAIL!), then I torque the screws to 40 inch pounds. THEN I stake the screws with my Brownells staking tool.
  24. There have been favorable and UNFAVORABLE reports on AR15.com they are running about about 50/50 here are a few I found: I thought i would share this with you since some of our members have been looking at their products. I have read some good reviews and some bad reviews of their stuff and this is what has happened with the 16" s.s. upper i bought from them. I happen to work in a store that has a very good sporting goods department, firearms being the best selling products by far. Like a lot of stores we have had trouble keeping ar's in stock and started stocking redx uppers and new frontier lowers so our customers would have something they could buy while we waited on our complete ar's to trickle in. I got the redx upper and a new frontier lower just because i guess, didn't really need any more ar's but they were sitting there staring at me everyday and so they came home with me. The next day i headed to the range to start the break in, the upper wouldn't feed from any of my mags so i fed it single shot cleaning after every round. On the tenth round the take down pin came out in two pieces so home i came. I called new frontier and they sent a new the next day. Back to the range and the same problem, new pin again and back to the range, same problem. At this point new frontier asked me to return the lower so they could replace it with another one, they sent it overnite, there was no charge for any of the parts they were sending me. Back to the range and ten rounds later broken pins again. This time i contact both redx and new frontier and ask for any help or thoughts on what was causing this. New frontier replies that this has not happened before and they just don't know what is causing this but will help in ant way they can. Neil from redx arms replies that all composite lowers are garbage and that using one voided my warranty and he would never repair the upper because of it. That was interesting since i had not asked for warranty work, simply thoughts on what might be causing the breakage. I can't really express the way Neil put it here without being censored. I decided to take the upper and lower down to our store and there i try the lower on every single ar upper we have including the redx uppers that are on the rack. It fits perfectly on all of them, then i take the upper and try it on the lowers we have and it won't fit on the lowers. I then take the lower to a very good gun smith who after checking it over says that it's out of spec enough on the pin holes that it will break the pins every time i put new ones in. This information i send to Neil at redx and the reply isn't worth typing out here, but pretty much came to eat sh*t and bark at the moon. All this before i even can get the unit broken in. I'll add here that the chamber was so tight that it wouldn' release the spent casing, since i had no warranty i corrected that with a lot of work with steel wool. now it won't release the round if you go into battery and then try to remove the round by hand. When you do get the round out it is so scarred that i won't try firing it. This is just a brief run down of my dealing with Neil and redx, you can read the whole thing over on predatormasters.com just search for "a tale of two companies" 5/18/12 on page 10 at the moment. I hope you have better luck with Neils products than me. blue AND: So I purchased a Red X Arms stainless steel fluted barrel. Did a little research and most people had good luck from what I could see. I went ahead and bought one. BIG mistake. I had Reaper Tactical which is a local guy build the rifle for me. When he went to head space it he said it was tight but should be fine. I was having a problem with the rifle stove piping the shells. So I went to a shoot that Reaper Tactical put on at a local gun range. I had the owner shoot my rifle and he experienced the problem. We tried swapping everything over from a different AR he had there. It came down to the barrel. He took the rifle back and tried to contact Red X Arms via email and phone with out any luck. They replied to him by email finally asking what ammo we were using. I really was hoping they would stand behind there product as it was a new barrel. So Reaper Tactical reamed the chamber to spec with a Reamer trying to solve the problem. When fired it was over gassing now due to the gas port in the barrel being to large. This barrel was either a screw up one off or this is simply just a poor product. But seeing as RED X ARMS is not helping us at all I am guessing that the barrels they make are just plain crap. So people be aware. This company will NOT stand behind there product at all. I am forced to buy another barrel now. PS, we could get the rifle to cycle properly by clocking the gas block to lower the amount of gas pushing the bolt back. The repair is obvioulsly an adjustable gas block or buy a descent barrel. I don't like band aid fixes so I'm buying a new barrel. AND Minnesota BBB has them rated an "F" http://www.bbb.org/minnesota/business-reviews/archery-equipment-and-supplies/red-x-arms-in-starbuck-mn-96318441 AND This is a cut & paste from their warranty, notice that you can't use Israeli or Korean ammo. Winchester has ammo manufactured in both of those countries, also NO reloads. Only the use of SAAMI Ammunition is recomended and will be covered under the warranty. The use of reloaded ammunition will void warranty. Also the use of Israeli, Korean, Chinese, Potugese, PMP, South African Produced Surplus, Wolf, Norinco, Any Steel Cased, Lacquer Coated ammunition voids warranty. The use of the ammunition have been known to cause a range of problems and damage to the rifle/parts. They also may be unsafe to yourself and cause harm to you or others.
  25. I run a Wolff +10% action spring with a standard (3 oz.) buffer and a J.P. Enterprises LMOS carrier. Ejects all my casings into a nice pile!
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