drewbeck
-
Posts
632 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by drewbeck
-
-
With no pf requirement, pick any medium book load, make sure it functions/is accurate, then load all of that bullet that you have.
you honestly have too many options without a defined purpose. Trust the manuals vs internet until you want to venture outside of the published data. -
You need to look at your ammo first. Go back to original spring and try several different bullet types, ie jacketed, plated, coated. As long as it’s safe and functions, charge weight in 9mm means little regarding accuracy at 18yrds.
The amount of crimp you’re using is probably the reason for inconsistency.
spring weights will definitely affect groups but in general it’ll result in a flyer from a tight group, vs an overall shotgun pattern.
its 99.9% a bullet/crimp/swage issue with the ammo in a gun like that
-
I’ll buy/trade anyone that wants to get rid of some
-
If they’re always heavy, assume stated weight when testing chrono. And then get confortable ave. Then you’ll always be at least 2-3pf above what you think.
-
I’ll buy any small sb primers that people want to unload.... trade fed large as well.
Seat them with authority and youll never have an issue.honest open trade or buy
-
Ive had opposite experience in 9major. It’s the only thing I’ll shoot in a match that counts. Prob 65k now and zero problems other than upside down.
haven’t tried in .40 but as long as extended fp and normal range main spring, I would be worried -
Clearance cut the nut so it doesn’t bind from the bottom, or adjust the press travel length.. something else is wrong though, I don’t have a 750 but you need contact with shell plate, then you back the die off 1/8 ish turn.
look elsewhere for the error
-
Jacketed Bullets...
-
And a set of pin gauges will tell you how far off it is. .001 in depth is significant for a tiny screw diameter
-
It’s not the width of the recess or the grip width that’s the issue, there’s usually a bulge in one or both that requires flat stoning to really see
-
Did you whack the frame with a rubber mallet several times to see other contact?
my experience and guess is the ridge in the frame and/or grip above the trigger guard and above the screw isn’t allowing the front to seat. It’s usually sand blasted on both halves and almost impossible to fin with Dykem unless you try to seat it good with a plastic mallet..
if thats not the issue, then you just need to alignment ream the front screw. There are varying opinions on how important that screw is to begin with but I prefer to use it
-
2 hours ago, pjb45 said:
Ha.
A friend asked me recently 'will CO replace Open'? My answer is YES.
It has all the benefits without the additional costs.
Yup, just like the dragster hasnt been replaced by the electric version...
theres a reason people like both but just because you can drive it on the road doesn’t mean it’ll ever be faster...
just because you push the limits of one vehicle doesnt mean it’ll replace a more specialized version of one.
-
1 hour ago, Sarge said:
It must be hit or miss. I have a backup that I had not used in two years. Finally my main gun quit extracting this summer at a level II. I switched guns to finish the match but could have just put a new aftec cap and springs in and went right back to shooting. I had them in my parts kit.
Yup, but you had a parts kit and a backup gun. My parts kit is literally a second fitted gun without a frame, slide or barrel. It even has a spare comp for my primary gun. I also have a backup gun but it’s not identical so I’d prefer to replace something broken if need be, but I’ve ran all the fitted parts to be confident.
To the OP, if you move to open, you’ll be better locally immediately, but you’ll need to actually be 6-9% better immediately to just be the same level of shooter in open.
Open div, in my opinion is the most fun, but also the most difficult to be competitive next to the big boys
.Ya open is faster, but the fast guys in open are WTF fast. And there is no shortcut to being that.
-
It’s good til it isn’t.... if stored properly and not exposed to much moisture it’s pretty much almost lasts forever.
-
You’ll get the feeling of when they seat well and when you need to do a slight double pump of the handle to ensure that specific primer is seated. And quite honestly I do a quick double push on almost all rounds to ensure they’re seated well. I’ve also found CCI’s are slightly shorter and will generally look especially deep when seated correctly. Just my experience
-
High primers...
the variation and difference between the two guns is likely due to different firing pin lengths and or chamber lengths but either way if they go bang on the second firing it’s because they weren’t seated deep enough on the first. A true dud won’t fire no matter how many times it’s struck
-
Have you had anyone else that is a quality shooter, and able to call their shots, shoot the gun? Before you go to crazy on the self diagnosis, you need to make sure the sights are actually not the issue. Also, how are you aligning them? post top, flat with rear, etc?
At 10 yards, that looks very much like the sights are off and less like a trigger pull problem to me. You have some vertical stringing which could also be a barrell/lockup issue with the gun, but having another good shooter shoot the gun would confirm it's either a "you" issue or a gun issue.
You should never assume that sights from the factory are going to be sighted in or even correct for that matter. You always need to confirm that the sights are "on" and if you aren't confident that you're able to do that, have someone else shoot it to see if the impact area is in the same spot.
Low shots like that are more of a "few here and there" rather than a consistent every shot pattern. Ie a few low shots would signal your flinching, anticipating, breaking wrists, etc but to be doing that on every single shot, is much more likely to be a sights or aiming issue with those sights.
-
Zero, precision delta, or hornady. I’m a 115gr guy so couldn’t say for certain but I’d guess Roze distribution is who should google if you want some. Or precision delta.... hornady is way to proud of their Bullets if you shoot many at all.
-
I’d bet that was an out of battery firing or an unsupported case from a barrel that was polished or worked more than typical for that specific gun.
easiest way to test out of battery firing condition is to (while empty) push barrel/slide against a wall and see if you can make the trigger click. The other way is to pull slide back and stick a cigarette but between the barrel and breech face and see if you can get it to click.
if either way allows the gun to “fire” / click etc, your trigger timing is way off and you need to have it fixed immediately by someone that knows what they’re doing ( you or a GS).
If it wont cycle out of battery, have a GS gauge the barrel and tell you how unsupported it is.
thats not a stepped case failure, and if you had a true double charge of titegroup, you wouldn’t be questioning yourself whether it was a double charge with that little of damage to you or the gun. 8gr of titegroup in 9mm behind a 124gr pill is a recipe for a spectacular event. Much like an M80!
-
It’s not bullet problem, but more of a reloader issue. Measure, test, and repeat until you figure out the issue.
”you haven’t changed anything in years” except for the projectile, which changes everything...
be patient and test things, everyone here is guessing based on experience.
-
#1 Run a Lee Undersized sizing die
#2 powder
#3 Bullet feed or empty to see pow
#4 Lee seat die
#5 Lee factory crimp
Do this and life will be good
-
#1- your 1/4 turn past on the sizing die for Glock bulge is probably tilting the plate enough to cause irregularities on the seating and crimping side of things.
#2- measurements with lead Bullets, case thickness, and final round oaw, can vary quite a bit, do they case gauge? Do they function well?
#3- Dillon makes awesome stuff but I’ve never had good luck with their dies not shredding cases without enough live to cause suction issues.
#4- lube is good and a dab should do you. Your pic looks like a rough carbide sizing ring to me though.
id guess though, your sizing die is too deep and the difference in the length of the cases you’re sizing on one side is causing the failures on the other side of the plate at the same time.
-
with 11 in the mag, it’s....an open gun!
no worries TC, all gun pics are cool
-
Rubbing’s racing,, get over it, Unless you’re selling it..., then tell them to get over it....
just an opinion, but there’s no reason to spend money on reworking a “scuff” unless that part is bowed, cupped, checked, warped, or split. It’s takes effort to make that happen with metal, and unless it’s cracked or worn beyond it’s life, put it in the safe and sleep well.
again, just an opinion
Random Observations About Reloading 9mm on Dillon XL 750
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
One shot is way better than lanolin for pistol cases, it’s the opposite for large rifle cases.
everything else is user/pace/feel, to eliminate. Sideways primers are usually because and upside down/now empty space in shell plate. (At least for me)
the LNL is an awesome press for a different purpose in my opinion. I think it’s quicker to change for small runs unless you have dedicated tool heads for the Dillon, but it’s way quirkier as well.
I use a single for precision rifle, the lnl for small batches of whatever, and keep the Dillon setup for the bulk.
I’ll trade my lnl for a 550 if anyone’s interested, but the 659/750 is the last one I’d let go