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Posts posted by IHAVEGAS

  1. 17 minutes ago, Sarge said:

    As many times as this forum has confirmed the COF begins with make ready, you had to look that up? Come on man.....


    Actually I think it was trying to remember back to the conclusion of one of the loooonnnggg and painful rule discussions that motivated me to screw it up in the first place. 


    That is not an excuse though, I screwed up. 

  2. I think I screwed up, but verification is a good thing. 


    USPSA match, after telling a shooter to "make ready" he loaded and holstered and the gun dropped out of his holster (open type) when he removed his hand.


    My thinking was that he had not started the course of fire yet and he allowed me to pick up his gun so I should handle this just like you would a dropped gun during a stage walk through (for example) and no dq. 


    Looking at the rules it appears that the course of fire started when I said "make ready" so I should have called a dq.



  3. 1 hour ago, RangerMcFadden said:

    I was just giving a heads up that you might have a headache inbound.


    Nothings impossible, but every competition shooters revolver that I know about 

    1 hour ago, RangerMcFadden said:

    may misfire (fail to fire) with some commercial ammunition

    although perhaps some people keep their guns stock.

  4. 6 hours ago, RangerMcFadden said:

    Off topic, but are you actually able to use 40 in it? I’ve seen multiple people have issues with it as it heads paces off the 10 mm case not the moon clip. Here’s at least one write up about it: https://revolverguy.com/ruger-10mm-gp100-part-ii-field-report/


    I'm burning up my old .40 ammo I had loaded for shooting USPSA limited in a bottom feeder, range brass of mixed headstand, Winchester primers I think, primer seating depth at whatever I got with my Dillon 550. With that much not in my favor and a lighter hammer spring I typically have 1 failure to fire or 2 per 120 round local IDPA match. This is with TK custom 0.050  clips. 

    I will be very surprised if there are any failure to fire issues when I start loading for this gun like I do for my other revolvers (Federals deep seated in a 1050 & brass sorted by head stamp), but I have been wrong before.  

  5. Anybody have a good IDPA load (155 pf) worked up?


    Any info on the groups you have been able to get would be very interesting.


    I could have put this with the reloading stuff but I think the first question is what the gun itself can be expected to do. Darn neat gun, I just haven't found something that flies straight like I did in my 625. 

  6. On 10/16/2020 at 2:13 PM, Silver_Surfer said:

    Multiple ricochets from the next range impacting the ground near you. 


    If you mean bullet splatters falling to the ground from folks shooting steels, that is just part of the game. 


    If you mean you were standing where you were not protected from actual ricochets (bullet retaining mass and in the next range and some idiots shooting steel targets that are not flat and rated for their guns) then I understand. 

  7. 5 hours ago, KlausN said:

     I change springs and firing pins therefore twice a week


    On further thought, twice a week would change my thinking, once a year for cleaning is more what I was thinking of. 

  8. 47 minutes ago, KlausN said:

    I disagree on the roll pin.  I use an extended firing pin for shooting with a low power spring but with the cool fire training barrel I use a standard firing pin with a strong/standard spring.  I change springs and firing pins therefore twice a week and it is a 30s job for the non roll pin shadow.  Taking the pin out twice a week for a “non-shadow” is too much of a pain for me even with the upgraded pin and a roll pin punch.  Same for the solid trigger pin which is worth the $13 to save me the aggravation of needing 3 hands to change the TRS.  


    Maybe it is just me. I had the solid trigger pin for a while and went back to original because I disliked the wobble more than the trouble of changing the trs. 

  9. 11 hours ago, IF788 said:



    a huge issue for me personally with non shadows, is roll pins.  the firing pin block, firing pin etc is held in by a roll pin which to me is the devil and a major cause for failure, puts a massive headache in home modding.  shadows taking the firing pin out is a 10 second job.  in non shadows its about 30-60 minutes depending how many roll pins you smash to bits while cussing and crawling on the floor trying to find the ones you drop.  I hate hate hate roll pins!


    Never heard of anyone having issues like that with roll pins in CZ's or Tanfo's, personally I have never dropped one that I can remember I always have my hand right there for the last couple taps and often don't tap them fully out (agree that starting one can be a little bit fiddly). I've also never damaged one to the point where it could not be re-used (do keep spares around anyway, I like not needing to worry about the small and cheap stuff). 


    Not being a turd here but if the pins cause fear and loathing and take a notable amount of time then you are doing something wrong (might help to buy roll pin starter punches/punchs if you do not have any). 


    11 hours ago, IF788 said:

    in my experience the trigger will be harder to tune compared to shadow because you fight more parts with the firing pin block.  it takes force and travel to make that work and shadows simple don't have that in the way. 



    Measurements from a CGW tuned SP01 not too shabby :) . 




    I assume everyone who tinkers has read this thread, just in case. 


  10. One other tidbit while I am thinking about it.


    If you install an extended firing pin, and a reduced weight firing pin spring, and load using deep seated soft federal primers, and flub the draw causing your gun to fall on concrete, a non fpb gun may go off. I know this. 

  11. 17 hours ago, IF788 said:

    in my opinion, non shadows are inherently worse than shadows, especially shadow 2s which are the best out of the box.  this is because shadows do not have firing pin blocks, and shadow 2s actually have pretty good stock hammers, etc and can get a pretty amazing trigger pull with jut a spring change.  



    Only difference I can remember is a less than 0.5 Lb pull weight penalty (guessing it is closer to 0.25#, there are some numbers posted on the CZ tuning master thread) which I don't think would ever make any difference in a match. Choosing between a Shadow 1 or SP01 I personally would likely go with whichever I ended up paying less for all told, but if the difference was under $100 I would likely spring for the Shadow. 

  12. The smarter revolver guys probably already know the answer to this one. Throwing it out because I am curious. 


    My SuperGP100 has a lot tighter chambers than my 929, in the long term that seems like it will be a meaningful disadvantage for fast and consistent reloads unless competitors pay to have the cylinders bored.  

  13. 30 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

    We can skip the idpa SO bashing, I hear just as many bad and silly range commands at all matches.


    My favorite so far is "heat it up Bubba" at a level 2 USPSA.


    Curious, has anyone ever seen any sort of a problem created by an incorrect range command? 


    8 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:


    I find that hard to believe.  At least 60% of the stages at every local USPSA match I go to have leans and some have pretty severe leans.


    You may have been right back in the bad old days of no fault lines in IDPA, and I doubt it even then.


    I was not intending to comment on how things are done wherever it is that you shoot, and if you do not believe I am capable of simple observation, ok.



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