Frank34

Just tried this today. 5.99 average. PM for part 2.

I am posting this is so other members could avoid this mistake even though it is a little embarrassing. I figured out that I did not have the blue tip seated completely on the primer tube. I pressed the tip against my workbench and felt it seat onto the primer tube. I then threw it in the press and no more primer problems. So if you are having priming problems here is one more thing to check.

I am having the exact same problem. Just passed the 50K mark on my press and the priming system has gone to hell. Never had any problems before this started to happen. I have replaced the blue tip several times and primers keep getting stuck and falling out the bottom of the press leaving me with unprimed rounds. If I tap the primer follower rod I can advance the primers and get priming going for a while but it will jam up again. I called Dillon today and was told to replace the blue tip. I have cleaned the press, replaced the primer punch return spring, took the actuator arm assembly off of my other 1050, polished the primer hole in the slide to make sure there were no burrs, verified that the primer hole in the slide is centered in the magazine tube, cleaned the magazine tube, and I can not get this press to prime consistently. I asked the guy at Dillon if he thought if the brass roller on the primer slide could wear down but he didn't think so. Tonight I put the primer magazine tube from my 650, the one with the brass tip, in my press and loaded 250 rounds without a problem. I just don't know how safe it is to run the press like that. So it appears that the OP got his press fixed but I can't figure out how he did it. I have used Winchester primers in the machine since it was new. Does anybody have any ideas I could try.

So I replaced the extractor and spring and ran 220 rounds of 128pf ammo made with mixed range brass and I had no problems. Also the brass landed between 6 and 7 feet away from me. I did not do any polishing to the extractor.

Well next stop is the spring. I’ll see tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you think about the end that catches the rim? That’s the part that looks bent out to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think this extractor is bent. I won’t get my new one until tomorrow but this doesn’t look right to me. I’ll know for sure tomorrow unless someone here knows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well sending it back wouldn’t be any fun. Also I want this thing running this weekend. An extractor and spring is a minor deal. Sometimes springs are weak, metal fatigues. Anyway I’ll know tomorrow if I’m right.

Good thing to look for but in my case I’m running the thin safetys.

So I’m having the same problem (intermittent) but often enough to screw up one or two stages during a match. My Shadow 2 has about 1500 rounds on it. Got it used with about 500 rounds on it. Never had an issue with my Shadow 1. I’m using reloads that I chamber checked and loaded to 128 power factor. Tried a 10, 11, and 12 pound recoil spring and casings are landing three to four feet away with either spring. I pulled the extractor and cleaned it and the channel and nothing changed. Now I’m going to up my load to around 135 power factor and see if that changes anything. After that I’m going to install a new extractor spring. If that doesn’t work I’ll replace the extractor. I really think it’s the spring but since I didn’t have one on hand I’ll try the ammo first.

124s for me. 147s seem a little sluggish. I do like the feeling of the 147s in the plastic guns though.

I have a Shadow for production and. a couple of 2011s for limited. I’ve been able to shoot the orange in 40 and it is a real nice gun. If I was starting out again in limited I would definitely give one a try. As far as Leo’s shooting I’m sure he would be winning with a 2011 too. I think you don’t see the oranges on the super squad is because no one is giving them away. They are hard enough to buy.

That laser has to be as high as possible on the bullet. There should be a halo right around the hole that the laser would go into if the bullet wasn’t there. The halo is right on the edge of the hole. .

So I got the bullet sensor hooked up and it works pretty well. Also the software/firmware update seemed to smooth indexing considerabely . I was loading 9 major at a 1631 rounds per hour rate with an index speed of 0 and a top dwell of 1. One issue that i noticed is that it seems that the sensor lets the down cycle of the press start if the bullet is in the correct position, if the bullet topples or falls off the case after the cycle starts the press will continue until the digital clutch stops it. I only discovered this because I kept turning the rpms up to get a bullet to topple to see how this thing works. This sensor is a very cool piece of engineering.

Got mine last night. Going to hook it up and give it a try.

Well I'm just glad I found out about it. Got one on order.

I would check the alignment of the sear spring and make sure it is positioned correctly against the sear and disconnector. Also the part of the spring that rests against the disconnector may need more tension.

I know I had to throat ream my Faxon barrels to work with my 125 blues at 1.135. Seems like most of the 9mm carbine barrels are all made with tight throats. The Xtremes that I used worked fine for me too.

Edge is a great promotion but the UPS sure post sucks. Would be much better if Brownell's shipped Priority Mail or even first class.

I think there is a point where the spring could be too weak or too strong. I think the one that came with the black pin was too weak or maybe too short. I threw all my black firing pins and springs out so I don't have one to measure.

I'll bet that will work. Here is a picture of the replacement firing pin. The spring is much stronger than the one that came with the black firing pin.

Yes. In the meantime you could grind the shoulder off of the pin where the spring is getting stuck so the spring floats on it. Or get them from JHOWARD. .

The black firing pins they they shipped some bolts with have a shoulder that the spring rides up on. The spring that comes with them is pretty weak and when it gets stuck up on the shoulder of the firing pin it stops hitting the primer. Not even a mark. Im not really sure if it's the firing pin or the spring. The colt firing pin is made from stainless steel and has no shoulder. When I emailed New Frontier Armory about the problem they sent me the colt style firing pin right away. They are really good to deal with.

So I got three rounds off on mine. I've built several of these and this was my first problem. The firing pin was fine but the spring had moved up the collar on the firing pin which I guess slowed the inertia of the firing pin by rubbing on the firing pin channel. So I replaced the spring and everything is working.

Changing the time that you clean your brass won't help. The issue is the process, soap and water make the brass too clean. What I have done is to back my powder funnel out a bit and if you get it right you will eliminate a lot of the sticking. If you have a Mr. Bulletfeeder funnel the problem can even be worse. You can try to polish both types of funnels. You can also try the 1050 powder funnel as it bells the case differently. If you take the time to experiment you will probably get the sticking down to a tolerable level.