JaredM

Thanks! I definitely won't be drilling all the way through the button if I do it again. I did get a RNT tab in today and I've gotta say it's pretty darn good. I'm pretty good with the matchsaver and after installing it I did a few runs. I had to adjust my technique slightly but within a few tries I was up to the same speed and consistency. Thanks for the tips guys. I think I'm gonna like the simplicity of the RNT.

Well I ordered one but the jury's still out. I'll let you know if you were right . In the meantime I removed the latch, center punched the hole to expand the button (which tightened it up pretty good) and then sanded and soldered all the way around the button. Doubt the solder did much but it seemed to bond and I put a pretty good bit of torque on the button and couldn't get it to turn.

I do have a vice and will try it that way if I decide to drill another one. I think I'll try and have this one welded but I'm also gonna finally give that RNT tab Kurt is talking about a try. Almost got one the last time this happened. Even if I end up not loving it I'll keep it and a spare latch in my bag as a backup. I appreciate all the help and pics. Good to know it can be done. Got a buddy who welds so I'll let him give it a try.

The install is fine. Its later on that the actual factory bolt button starts spinning within the carrier latch. The screw is tight in the factory button.

So, my M2 currently has its 4th carrier latch in place. I drill the button from the back side cause I can't figure out how to line it up with my drill press any other way. I drill a hole the size of the button in a block of wood clamped to the press table, then push the button down into the hole to hold it in alignment and switch drill bit to proper size and drill all the way through from the back side. <<<That may be my problem. The issue I repeatedly have been running into is that the oversized release (Taran, Arredondo, etc) will start spinning. When I check the screw (which I blue loctite in) it's still tight. It's just that the button is now turning in the carrier latch. This last time I center punched the back of the button aggressively to hopefully expand the metal and tighten the fit before drilling but it's doing it again. I don't weld but has anyone had luck welding the button to the carrier latch? This seems like the ultimate solution but I imagine it would require a good bit of skill on such small pieces. Anyone found any other solutions? Someone should make a carrier latch for this joker that has the button welded in instead of just pressed in. Does GG&G weld theirs? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll likely ruin the one I have trying to get the screw out and will be ordering my 5th and 6th latch as replacement/backup. Thanks, Jared

So I installed a new carrier latch and that fixed the problem. I couldn't reproduce the situation again. That is until I installed my Arredondo bolt release. Now it happens maybe 10% of the time. When it does happen, I can push hard on the bolt release and the shell release button will reset with an audible 'click'. I heated up the button and bent the front part outwards a little hoping to fix the problem but it still happens. I think the button is preventing a complete press of the bolt release and thus allowing the malfunction. I think I'm going back to the Nordic button or maybe try one of Taran's bolt release button since it doesn't extend so far forward and is metal thus more rigid. Another thing I'm going to do is slightly bevel and polish the top edge of the front part of the silver shell release button where it slides past the carrier latch. That might help.

Thanks! I haven't been pressing the bolt release when reinstalling the trigger group. That may have been what messed things up with my latch.

So I was at the Atlanta 3 Gun Club Championship last weekend and had a bit of an issue with my Benelli. The stage called for empty shotgun laying on table (bolt could be open) which required a load before engaging shotgun targets. I hit decocker button (might be using wrong term) and locked bolt open when staging the gun. During the course of fire I dropped a round in the chamber as I picked the shotgun up and hit the bolt release. Then flipped the gun and started my quad load but the carrier was locked in the down position and i couldn't load. I had to eject the round, release the bolt again before it would let me load. Well I have since checked the gun over and it seems about 25% of the time when I decock, lock bolt back, and then hit bolt release the decocker won't reset which locks up the carrier. After examining it further, I think the back portion of the carrier latch juts too far towards the middle of the loading port and is not allowing the decocker to slide up beside it. I took the carrier latch out and bent that part back a little and that seems to have fixed the problem. However the front part of the latch isn't holding the shells in the tube any longer so I'm going to have to work on it some more. I've ordered another latch as I need a spare anyway and may not be able to fix this one. The gun has performed flawlessly through at least 1500rds up til this point. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Am I on the right track? Thanks, Jared

Another great match!!! Thanks Paul, Chris, Rob, Jansen, and all the guys and sponsors who make the match possible. I took a little trip to Penaltyville, USA with two FTEs and two misses (steel didn't fall and I didn't realize it) adding up to 40 sec added to my time. Lessons learned but I still had a great time. Jimmy Oliver gave me some great advice and I'll be working on my pre-stage mental prep next time out. Here's another GoPro vid so those who didn't make it can see the stages. Paul, how'd the video from the Phantom/aerial target turn out?

I recommend the head mount. Looks about as cool as a pink fanny pack but other than that it doesn't bother me at all. If you have a Hero3 the GoPro app on your phone definitely helps in getting it lined up right. I like playing with the video but I also think it's a great way to review the match and think about how I could have done things better and what I need to work on the most. Here's mine from last month: Oh, and please disregard the mini-strokes I suffered when transitioning to loading on Stage 3 and 4. That weak hand reloading muscle memory is hard to suppress

Looking forward to this match in Dec. Would like to know approximate round count and max range. Gotta start stocking up on some ammo. Thanks, Jared

Same thing happened to me. I put the flat latch portion in vise and tried tapping it and the button started spinning. I had to drill hole all the way through so I could put button in vise with latch portion up and tap it from the backside. May not be a problem with larger hole as it won't apply so much torque to button when tapping. Would be nice to not have to drill all the way through. Jared

Thank you sir! That'd be my problem then. I was using a #36 (0.1065") per the instructions, the #35 i was gonna step up to was only 0.110 and may have worked but probably would have been real tight. Sounds like you saved my bacon. I'll stay on the safe side and go with a 0.120 then. BTW you'll be seeing this one in near future for some loading port work. I leave that kind of stuff to you pros. Thanks again, Jared

Hey guys. In trying to install a Nordic release on my M2 I had a bit of a hiccup. I removed the carrier latch which includes bolt release button, drilled out the hole on my drill press all the way through the center of the button with a #36 bit. Problem came when I was tapping hole with the 6-32 tap I had a lot of resistance despite using oil and had to go real slow advancing just a little and then backing out etc. Then my fears were realized and the tap broke off in hole. Tried getting it out, shattering with punch etc but no go. New latch on the way and like the stubborn jerk I am I'm gonna give it another go. I now see some sources pair a #35 bit with a 6-32 tap. I think I may try that first on a test piece and see if screw fits well enough in the larger hole. Any backyard smiths here with any experience with this install? Any tips would be appreciated. Obviously the right thing to do would be to send it to a real pro like Mr Hill or someone but I just enjoy figuring this kinda stuff out although its an admittedly expensive vice. At $30 a pop those latches ain't cheap. Thanks, Jared

That's too funny! I'd think shooting your RO would at least be a DQ for the day. "I'm sorry you're disqualified, please come back next time". Anyway, thanks again for putting on another goodun' Jared