ltdmstr

I don't dress like John Fetterman, and have a hard enough time concealing a Shield Plus with irons for EDC. The idea of concealing a double stack with a dot plus a spare magazine is pretty nuts to me, in terms of both size and weight. Also, I'm significantly faster with irons inside of 10 yards, which is where 90+% of defensive shootings occur. I really could care less that dot guns are the new hotness, or what anyone else thinks. For me, they're not practical, and don't offer any benefit. So, I'm gonna pass on that.

I don't shoot open, so no HPs for me. All flat nose bullets for 9/38/40 and round nose for 45.

I tumble after loading because I don't want a bunch of case lube and crud on my fingers when I load my magazines. Fifteen minutes in the cement mixer with untreated corn cob and they look like factory ammo. As for having a detonation during tumbling, that seems highly unlikely. I've tumbled more than a half-million loaded rounds over the years and never had one detonate. And even if one did go bang, so what? Not like it's going to set off the whole lot.

Primers should be transported in original packaging. If you have a bunch of loose primers together in a jar, box, tube or whatever, and one goes off, it could set off the whole lot. Which could be a real problem. Also, pack the powder and primers in separate containers stored as far apart as possible. Def don't pack them together. Other than that, pretty much what's been posted.

Well, some people on this board are of the opinion that you should never clean your barrel. Aside from that, I've seen some really, really crazy stuff related to guns over the years. So, not much would surprise me in that regard. Also, keep in mind that OP's knowledge level is to the point that he came here to ask this question, which is kinda telling.

Maybe go back and reread my last post. It addresses that point as well.

I've shot plenty of .38 rounds in S&W revolvers (19, 586, etc.) and Marlin lever actions (1894), so I have actual experience as well. Since you've done this, you must be aware of the common problem of material buildup at the front end of the chamber. Which is very obvious when you then try to shoot .357 rounds in the same revolver or rifle. Even after a thorough cleaning the cases tend to jamb and stick because of carbon and other material built up in the open space. With a semi-auto, due to a lack of forcing cone, this is even more pronounced. And then even more so if shooting lead or coated bullets vs jacketed. If you clean the gun regularly this probably won't be a problem. But If you shoot a lot of rounds and allow material to build up, that could create problems with accuracy, reliability and eventually, increased chamber pressure.

Might want to consider the fact that unlike a revolver, a semi-auto doesn't have a forcing cone. And the front edge of the chamber tends to be pretty sharp. So, it'll work for a while, assuming you have enough extractor tension to hold the round in place for consistent ignition and extraction. But, it's certainly not going to be optimal, and does pose a risk over time.

Power and cowboy shooting?

EGW

Double Alpha.

For the first three, the radius makes zero difference. The fourth is a matter of opinion. As for altering the contact point on the hammer, I highly doubt that in a blind test anyone would be able to tell.

If I get another one, I'm gonna weld that up before I get the gun refinished.

Very nice! Any issues with the SRO overhanging the ejection port?

I'd put money on the fact that it wasn't a stock gun. And that the gun had light springs and/or internal modifications done by someone who doesn't understand what he's doing. So, not a design issue and not the fault of the manufacturer. And for anyone that wants to label me a Sig fanboy, I can tell you I bought a 320 when they first came out and thought it sucked. Sold it instantly. And I have exactly zero Sigs in my "collection."

All of my Atlas 9mm mags hold 23 reloadable with the Taran-style base pads they come with.

This is false. SAAMI specs for 9mm are 1.000 minimum and 1.169 max.

Guess I'll give those a try. Still would like to find a source for a box of 50 or 100.

Threads are approx. .140, OAL approx. .230.

Thanks, I did see those. But even the short ones are way too long. I can make them work, but would rather get a whole box that's the correct length so I don't have to mess with cutting them down.

Does anyone know of a source for the 6-48 T10 flat head machine screws used to mount the Springfield Prodigy AOS plates? I checked McMaster-Carr and all my usual sources and nobody has them.

Well, the AGI Master Gunsmith title and a nickel together would be worth about five cents.

We're already there.