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After loaning out my backup 2011’s at multiple matches to people who have broken links in those matches, I’ll stand by my statement.

Patent pending with NDA signed on one part. extractor is Aftec

To answer your question: The barrels are 100% machined in house and designed to work without a link, a weak point in the 1911/2011 design. Fitting barrels with the linkless system is different than traditionally found with a linked barrel. The barrels are single piece units, so there is no piece to thread onto barrels for sight blocks or comps....SO, no comps falling off, spinning loose, or attempting to thread them onto the .40 barrel. The slide remains a constant with the system, which is manufactured in house as well, and you will not get a varying amount of wear with one slide versus another. Barrel fit is consistent enough from barrel to barrel that I can swap between my 9mm irons barrel and my .40 irons barrel without having to adjust my rear sight. Tolerances throughout are maintained well enough that I can shoot my pistol in 9mm irons, swap to .40 irons with the same point of impact, swap the rear sight module off to mount the red dot with the 9mm comped barrel, maintain zero, then swap back to 9mm/.40 irons and the rear sight module while retaining zero. To do so, I use a torque driver set to 20in/lb and torque everything the same each time. Because of tech used, I've yet to use, or need, loctite for my screws when mounting either the rear sight module or red dot with receiver plate. I hope that answers your question, but if it doesn't, please let me know and I will try to get you the information you need.

That's gotta be a Honcho-Mini in .22....... or Sanders squatch-gripped the Honcho and made it look tiny.

Bring it by the office when there's some time to spare and we can get it all set up.

I have openings this afternoon and my schedule tomorrow is pretty open. If you want to call in dead to work Friday, come by to get adjusted, then at noon, a couple unwashed 3-gunners are coming by the office to meet up and drive to the office. We are just getting dope for rifles and checking zero's for pistol and rifle to make some longer shots in Texas (100-125yd with pistol). If we get done in time, might hit BulletHole for indoor USPSA, and maybe Higginsville USPSA Saturday. You're welcome to join.

PSSSSST......you're in KCMO right? Come shoot mine, I'm in KCMO. If you want to dryfire and check one out, my office is near Zona Rosa and I have areas to dryfire in the office. Mine is the 3G model with slide ride dot, so I don't have the 38 barrel or frame mount. It's currently set up for Open so I can shoot the Vortex / Shooters Source match in Texas next, but it takes 2-3 minutes to swap it over to irons if you want to try it like that as well. I keep all the parts and mags with me.

Use cheap/bulk brass cased 55gr for hoser, it will be close enough to your heavy bullets. Find a handload or factory 68-77gr .223 that shoots well in your gun, chrono it, test it at various distances, and use that only for small and long range targets. Burning the good stuff on hoser paper just wastes money.

Built in 20moa isn’t that important with a 1-6 optic. Either would work fine.

Vortex outsources those mounts to trusted companies known to make great products. Buy either with confidence! The pro model (non-QD) is made by Warne The QD version looks like it’s made by ADM.

The Vortex PST II 3-15x FFP with EBR-2C reticle is awesome. It’s the sweet spot of the PST II like and I’m using that scope on my 20” AR

I have a 21", 24", and a 26" all from Roth. Personally, I prefer how a 26" feels in hand compared to the other two. I have an 8rd tube on the 21" in case I feel like shooting Blue Ridge again, the 10rd monotube on the 24" because I robbed the +2 extension for the 10rd monotube on my 26". I've shot the 24" and 26" the most, shooting both of them well in competition, and I honestly only prefer the 26" for added little bit of weight out at the end of the gun.

Non issue. My 200yd spot on the range is more than 6' higher than my targets when zeroing.

I mounted an LPA from Kensight with angled sides. I need more time behind it before I can give a better review....but it "feels" like using peep sights. In order to see the front sight, you have to be relatively lined up or it disappears, the rear sight isn't wide enough with the angled sides to obstruct peripheral vision. I ended up pulling it and sticking with my XS rear sight that Roth dovetailed into the vent rib for Generation III Gun because I wasn't used to the LPA rear sight yet, but I'm hoping to get more time behind it soon.

I have both a Vortex Razor 11-33x and Vortex Razor 20-60x spotting scope. Id tell you that the 11-33x is he most useful. The big spotting scope is great, but the 11-33x is lighter, smaller, and works great for seeing hits on paper to zero at 100-200 yards, and has a wider field of view for calling hits on steel out to 1000 yards. If money is saved, I’d use it for a tripod setup for it. My 11-33x is a straight version, and 20-60x is angled. I prefer the straight version for both standing, and seated use too.

Results are on PractiScore

On a barrel with a pinned comp, I would probably prefer to use a comp that does not use a high pressure chamber before opening to the baffles. It fills with carbon and can eventually become a problem. On 16”+ barrels, I’d recommend removing the comp and cleaning that chamber out every 3-5000 rounds depending on powder used. As for effectiveness, those are two excellent comps and both can be adjusted/tuned for vertical and lateral movement.

I couldn’t say officially, but the mounts we had on our rifles at Shot Show with Vortex logos looking almost identical and used the same mounting system as the Warne mounts I use in 3-Gun.

OEM manufacturing is common. It’s a very good mount regardless if it says Warne or Vortex.

At current prices, I’m not loading 55gr. If I were, and I did when 55gr was near $400/1000, I would chronicle my ammo and push to around 2950-3000fps in my 18” barrel. I would also make sure my gun functioned the same with it and my load range load using 68-77gr bullets.

Bulk 55gr rifle ammo for hoser ammo. Downloading rifle ammo results in the comp being less effective and very little gain. I don’t bother getting M193 or hotter 55gr ammo as the velocity gets higher in my 18” guns and can beat up steel on my range when practicing.

I’ve shot TacIrons (1x only) and TacOps quite a bit. An important thing here is....it’s two different divisions, and really aren’t meant to be compared to each other unless you’re shooting TacIrons gear in TacOps, then you’re giving yourself a disadvantage. I’ve done this, shooting Open with my TacOps gear, and knee going into it that my equipment was well under the limits of what was allowed. You can shoot tacirons with your Aimpoint Pro and just compete in that division. Changing to a variable optic forces you into TacOps. TacOps should have an advantage over TacIron division on long range and maybe a little with offhand rifle, just like Open should have some advantages over both TacOps and TacIrons for most/all aspects. if you are worried about your finish overall, Open gives you the equipment advantages at the cost of buying all the gear and keeping it all running. If you want to compete with the largest pool of shooters, you may want a quality variable optic (I prefer the Vortex Razor 1-6) to compete within the TacOps division where you find 60-75% of shooters at most major matches. If you’re wanting to compete with the gear you have, you’ve got some solid competition out there in the TacIrons division, and there’s nothing wrong with competing there either! There is a point of pride in hitting the longest target at a match with a 1x optic too.

In

Pull the Phase 5 and put a standard bolt catch in and test it again.

Also take a look at whether or not the carbon build up around your gas block makes a nice circle around the port, or if it’s blocked. If it’s partially blocked, you aren’t running full gas when your gas block is wide open. I use a .010” feeler gauge to offset my gas block correctly from the shoulder on the barrel. Another possibility is using a Magpul BAD lever or similar device that attaches to the bolt catch and adds weight to it. If using one, remove it and see if that function changes.