DakotaGlockGuy
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Posts posted by DakotaGlockGuy
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Here's a quick pic from today's range session, and I've got this baby all dialed in. I was switching between 124 and 115 grn, and decided to really make it dead nuts perfect with the 115 grn S&B ammo since I have about 4K rounds of it.This is a 5 round group at 15 yards, 2-hand standing (no support).The group should actually be smaller, as I was shooting at an Orange, 1" shoot-n-see dot. The last round hit what was left of the dot and created the big rip on the Right side of the paper. Note to self, when shooting for groups next time, just use a MARKER so this doesn't happen again!!!Grip work by me, sight/slide/bead blasting by Robert Burke.
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My goal for this week is to get out to the range and testing the combination of riding a finger in the front of the trigger guard while riding a thumb on the takedown lever. It certainly feels like it provides a lot of leverage and seems to work for Yong.
Great catch on the Technique. I remember Jerry Miculek saying the same thing about keeping a finger in front of the trigger guard when he shoots "these lighter polymer guns."
Here's the video,
He's got some great slow motion footage showing the difference in recoil between that and bad technique against a grid.
I noticed I have been putting my thumb on the takedown lever, too, but have never done the combination of that with the finger in front of the trigger guard.
Alma, you won't be the ONLY one working on that this week my friend!!!
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A common Glock online store sells a replacement backstrap kit for the Gen 4 Glocks for about $25 + shipping.
You can pick these P320/P250 frames up for about $40 + shipping.
I can actually change the frame on my P320 faster than I can install a large beavertail backstrap on a Glock (due to how you have to bang that stupid pin in there!)
One is a small plastic part, and the other is a larger plastic part.
I think it's correct that they are just "Parts" though, and not the "Gun", ie: serialized part.
I'm sure this will get ruled, appealed and re-ruled again in the future!
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I still need to have trigger work done on it (it's at 6 Lb currently) but in USPSA competition I don't feel that I am worse off from the CZ because it's a crisp and short trigger.
I think you will absolutely LOVE the gun after some trigger work. I thought the trigger was "pretty good" in stock condition, but after it came back from Robert Burke, I was absolutely amazed by the trigger!!!
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Tactical Texture - I really dig the look of your stipple job. How aggressive is your stipple? I'm looking for something at least comparable to standard grip tape.
The Polymer Sig uses on these is pretty tough, so if anything it would feel MORE aggressive than grip tape.
On the carry model (P320C) I actually knock it down since it's so aggressive that carrying it next to bare skin would be painful.
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Bruce Gray announced last night that Gray Guns is now accepting P320s for trigger work. He also has his custom P320 rear sight options and the new uncaptured guide rod.
The guide rod is a "fat" design that adds half an ounce even though it's stainless steel. It is designed to allow you to run standard 1911 recoil springs on your P320.
I ordered one from GGI this morning with a 13lb recoil spring and will report back with results once get it. Here is the link for the stainless finish but I black finish is also available on the website.
http://grayguns.com/products/custom-fat-stainless-steel-guide-rod/
Alma,
Is the 13 lb standard, or are you using it for reloads? I would like to give one of these a try as well, but didn't know which spring to get.
Any suggestions?
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Where would you put this texturing in terms of aggressiveness when compared to Hogue's textures (checkered, piranha, chainlink)?
Unfortunately I don't have any experience with any of Hogues textures. I can tell you that the polymer Sig uses is different than Glock's, so the same texture feels more aggressive with the Sig than any Glock I own.
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Cutting a few coils still helps but it definitely still needs a lighter spring overall. I don't expect GGI to have much available until after Shot Show at this point but I am hoping the flood gates open after that.
How did the trigger come out?
Does cutting the coils off help only if you are running some lower powered loads, or does it do something for full power, say 115 gr S&B ammo, too? I remember reading that link saying that it helped keep the sights from bouncing so much, but didn't know what kind of ammo they were running or if you noticed any other benefits?
The trigger left my house at 6 lbs. 14 oz, and returned at 4 lbs. 8 oz. and super smooth. I've only had it out to the range once since the work was done, but it's growing on me pretty quick.
As long as it's functional, it doesn't have to be pretty!
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Here's the Sig P320 Robert Burke (The Sig Armorer) and I did.Work Done:Robert - Bead Blasted Slide/Trigger/Adjustable Sight work (XD Adjustable Rear/Stock P Series Fiber Optic Front)Tactical Texture - Texture workHere are some better pics of the finished product:
The finished product is pretty much perfect for me, but I might have to try cutting 3 coils off that recoil spring like alma did just in case!
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By the way, you should avoid adding texture near the takedown lever. It looks nice but technically that would move you out of Production division.
Thanks.
The Frame Flat texturing was just a popular option I wanted to show with this frame.
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Here are some better pics of those adjustable sights on the P320 collaboration Robert Burke and I did.Texture work: Tactical Texture and Triggers, LLC.Slide/Trigger/Sight Work: Robert Burke.I can not tell you how happy I am with this P320 now!!!
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@Joe D (or anyone),
Have you ever measured the difference in trigger pull weight before and after modifying that spring tab? I'm just wondering how much weight that takes off the pull?
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Just got a Dawson Precision FO sight set for mine. That goes on today. :-)
So how are the sights working out? I've been eyeballing these, too, but wanted to hear how they shoot POA/POI before I pulled the trigger.
Any info you can give on how they hold (6 o'clock or hold-over) would be appreciated!
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The pics all look awesome.
Question, putting the texture all the way up and around the beaver tail of the Glock, does/can that irritate the soft, fleshy part of the web on (my girly) a persons hand? At least, on extended shooting outings to the range.
Not on my guns they won't. I take the texture down quite a bit. Basically I do either an aggressive, medium, or mild variation of my texture. That high part of the grip tang would be even more mild than my "mild" texture. It doesn't even bother me, and I have girly hands, too!
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"removing some metal and rounding some sharp areas on the part acting on the connector gave me a much interesting weight break."
When you say "removing some metal", do you mean you actually shortened or changed the angle/radius/shape of the bird's beak, which is the part of the trigger bar that contacts the connector, or do you mean you just slightly rounded the part of the beak that actually makes contact and rides on the top of the connector tab?
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Now that I have enough juice to post some pics. Here's some stuff I've done...
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Dakota do you play SVB any onepocket in Dakota?
Negative. SVB is in SD. I'm in ND.
I'm a *decent* player, but nowhere near his caliber!
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Not any running issues, it is hard to get the trigger job as good on a gen 4. The 17L handles way different than the 34. I have both set up the same way and the 17L is harder to stop in transitions. I am going to shoot limited minor with the 17L soon and see how it does. My 17L is the heaviest glock I have ever picket up. Extra long Tungsten guide rod, SJC magwell and KKM barrel. Flat shooter.
OK, so it almost sounds like you don't like the 17L as much as a Gen 3 34. Is that correct?
I get you about the trigger. I can get it real close, especially after swapping the Gen 4 trigger bar with a Gen 3, but would agree it's only about 95-ish% as good.
As far as accuracy goes, would you put it ahead of the 34, or do you think they are about the same?
Thanks again for your input!
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There is a huge difference between a 34 and a 17L. I would not own a gen 4.
There is a huge difference between a 34 and a 17L. I would not own a gen 4.
Can you define the difference between the 2? Really about the only thing I see is about another inch of barrel, and the corresponding increase in sight radius. Can you please elaborate for me on what other differences you are talking about?
I am sure the answers would be within reach via a search but what do you see as the issues with the Gen 4s?
I don't have any experience with them.
I have experience with the Gen 4's, and have not had any issues with them. If onepocket (my favorite pool game, BTW) is saying something about the reliability of the gen 4's being in question, than I must be in the minority as I haven't had any issues. I've only owned one Gen 3, which was my first Glock: A Gen 3 Glock 30S. Great gun, no problems with it either.
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Just got an email showing the 17L's are available from a popular distributor.
Bad News: It's a Gen 3 Frame, so I'm still on the fence about pulling the trigger on it since I have a Gen 4 34 already. I don't know if the nostalgia of owning one is worth the $595 price tag of having something that is probably not much different than what I have now.
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I'm starting to dry fire a lot more and it really seems to be making a difference.
I used to take guitar lessons, and my music teacher said that same thing that a few others here have which is:
The QUALITY of your practice is far more important than the QUANTITY of it.
He also said that you want to push yourself a little, but don't do it till you hate it because it will:
a. Dampen your passion for what you are doing, and, even worse
b. Allow fatigue/concentration lapse to allow you to practice something wrong, and thereby negate what you have been trying to build.
I think that same line of reasoning applies here as well.
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word on the street is the 17L is about to get another run
O....M....G....
And the 17L takes over the top of the "Next Must Have Glock" list!!!!
I'm really hoping this comes out in the Gen 4 design. You would think it would be a no-brainer, but .... the 30S???
Sig P320
in Sig
Posted
More info on the slide/sight combo.
The Sights are Dawson Precision. The Rear sight is for an XD, and the front is a standard, fiber optic "P" series Sig sight. You'll need to run at least a .195 front with the XD rear setup.
As far as the slide goes... it's not even a stock slide.
Robert gets these special from Sig, and they don't have the relief milling inside. That allows them to be milled down from the top, whereas if you tried this with the stock setup you would cut through the top. Basically what he does is swap-out your stock slide to one of these if you want it milled to accept the XD adjustable sight.