jwhittin

What if this was a local match and the "Safe Direction" was clearly shown as only the side berm? I would have to issue a DQ then.

I wonder why they excluded local matches. I would have to agree with you since there doesn't seem to a specific rule that would apply for a local match (assuming it was a local match the OP was talking about). Very timely discussion for me since we are getting ready to host a Level II match and are discussing Safety Tables in each berm.

Accept at a Level II and higher match. 2.4 Safety Areas The host organization is responsible for the construction and placement of a sufficient number of Safety Areas for the match. They should be conveniently placed and easily identified with signs. At Level II or higher matches, Safety Areas must include a table with the safe direction and boundaries clearly shown.

The only document that matters is the official WSB! It doesn't matter what a stage description states (even if its wrong, unclear, etc.). The WSB states T1 then T3. That's on the shooters if they didn't follow the WSB.

No competitive advantage whatsoever. Procedural is for not following the order stated in the WSB. I agree the classifier should be updated. There really is no reason to dictate the order of T1 and T3.

I haven’t done this yet but I’m going to try JB Weld mixed with tungsten granules and/or tungsten powder. Bought granules on eBay and powder is available on Amazon (it’s used to balance golf clubs). Who knew! I’ve used JB weld on lots of 2011 grips with great results. I think this will work to add extra weight.

Short answer is to obtain the most efficient draw from wrists below belt. So to achieve the least amount of movement and to make establishing the grip as ergonomic as possible.

I have none. Here are some other options. Again, I have not used them. I'm searching just like you. Let me know what you end up doing. https://ncengravers.squarespace.com/1911-services https://deeprivercustoms.com/gunsmith-services/#sight https://dscgunworks.com/pages/services-rates https://stonebridgegunworks.com/Slide-Milling-Services_c_27.html They don't list 1911s but can't hurt to ask. https://www.dpcustomworksllc.com/optic-cuts They don't list 1911s but can't hurt to ask.

What about C&H Precision Weapons? I think they offer milling for 1911/2011 slides.

I had the same problem with similar screws on a handguard and my local gunsmith took care of it.

Same here. I tried a week ago though.

“I need to take off black nitride finish off the bottom part of a 2011 hammer” Why? That doesn’t make any sense to me. What are you trying to do.

I built a basic bench out of 2x4s, plywood and deck screws. Has one shelf underneath for storage. You can make it whatever size you want. I put a sheet of wall panel material over the plywood on the top and over the plywood shelf. I anchored it to the wall studs and its very sturdy. If you have the tools this is probably the most cost effective solution. Oh and I used 8 bolts to secure the top and the shelf to the frame.

I understand that. Clearly the one lug was not cut properly when it was installed and they should have corrected it. Instead they decided to put a Band-Aid on it. Thanks

Thanks Charlie. I wasn’t buying the torque tale. Yes it is very disappointing. Was tempted to have the lug laser welded and refit it myself. I suspect it won’t take long for the issue to reappear. Maybe at that point they will address it properly.

I checked the accuracy and I'm getting about 0.5 to 1." at 15 yrds. So far it looks good. I noticed the wear on the slide stop but didn't think it was enough to cause an issue. I will keep checking it from time to time. Hope it lasts.

I see you already checked other makers. Don’t know who else to check.

It’s baaaack! 2022 IDPA rule book. If clear, slide forward

It’s easy to use sandpaper and a drill as a lathe to remove a few thousandth of an inch if needed to allow free spring movement.

You just cut the ends to get the length you need and sand them smooth. The shaft was the correct diameter so I didn't need to do anything.

Is it for a 1911/2011 or is the rod completely symmetrical?

Hi All, Here is an update as promised! I spoke to the manufacturer today (yes STI). They had to order more 9 major ammo before the Holidays to test my gun and apologized for the delay. The Smith did acknowledge the uneven lower lug wear pattern as a concern. He checked the lockup and said it was still in factory spec. He mentioned the wear pattern favoring a side can be more pronounced due to rotational forces (from barrel twist). I’ve never heard that but yes, there will be rotational forces. I will have to think about that some more. As far as the elongated barrel link, he explained that sometimes they intentionally elongate a link hole a small amount to fine tune the lockup. It has a #4.5 link and I measured a 0.002” elongation in the slide stop hole. He also noted that the slide stop has some unusual wear that could explain the degraded accuracy. The stop had some areas that were flattened so he replaced the side stop with their new more durable part. I suspect it might have a slightly larger diameter too. Bottom Line: He said what he found doesn’t meet their threshold for a complete barrel replacement. WORK COMPLETED Replaced the slide stop with new, more durable slide stop Inspected pistol and checked barrel lockup - Was still within factory spec. Test Fired 4 groups of 3 shots each at 20 yards. All groups measured less than 0.5" center to center and there were no fliers. It’s already on the way back. I will check the accuracy and see what I find. I know they have their process to follow. I’m really glad they stand behind their products!

The mains springs come in two sizes. The 1911 Officer model is shorter.

I'm packing it up now to send it back. I'll post updates. I don't have a backup so will be running COs in the meanwhile.

It’s an integrated comp but I’ll check. I sent them new pics and I asked them to re-evaluate there initial assessment. They sent me an RMA no questions asked.