DaveF

I bought a G34 Gen4 a few months ago. I've been very happy with it. But the trigger was rough and 'gritty' feeling. I started with a meticulous "25 cent trigger polish". Took me two or three attempts to get it somewhat smooth. But it was still kinda rough. So I started looking very closely, even with magnifying glass, at all the moving parts and contact points. I discovered that there was some deburring that also had to be done. I used 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper (on a popsicle stick) for the deburring. I deburred just enough to get rid of any sharp edges that might have the potential to grind against other parts. For me, it was the careful deburring that really smoothed the trigger out. I eventually installed a 3.5 lb trigger kit and now my trigger is smoooooth and sweet. Really a pleasure to shoot.... There are some caveats here. If you install 3.5 lb trigger kit, and have internal trigger parts with rough edges that are sticking or binding, then unsafe operating conditions may ensue. JMHO, of course. Make all mods at own risk. Good luck

I tried shooting with just the front red FO, and it was OK. But the best change was adding those two green dots in the rear. That made a huge difference for me.

Well, I just wanted to update this topic and say thanks to everyone for all replies. I ended up using HiViz green FO rear sight and HiViz red FO front (shown below). These sights work best in daylight, which is when matches are conducted, so the sights are working GREAT for me. -

Thanks for all comments. There are numerous valid suggestions posted. Here's the edited checklist so far (which I will be taking to next classifier): *** Print out the classifier course description and put a copy of it in the back of each bay where the guys who are waiting can see it. 1. SO has cheat sheet in hand and briefly reminds shooter before each string. (" draw and fire six shots while moving from this line to that line.") 2. Squad pays attention. Each shooter doesn't come to the line and say "what do I do now?" 3. Designate mag loader buddies. The guy shooting shouldn't be wasting everyone's time standing at the line thumbing rounds into his/her magazine between strings. 4. Everybody tapes. 5. Set up each bay so all three stages are available on each. 6. Run everybody on that bay through stage 1 before running everybody through stage 2. 7. Have one of the better shooters go first so the less skilled can have an idea of not dragging this process out. 8. That means they need to be watching the first shooter(s), not sitting in the back of the bay BS-ing and not paying attention. 9. Send the scorekeeper and ALL shooters... except for the on-deck shooter... down to tape and score. SO stay at the line with the on-deck shooter and run him/her through the procedures one more time, and make sure that he has his mags & gear ready. 10. If you put two stages side by side in the same bay (if there is room... and given the Classifier target set up there normally is), you can have Shooter 1 shoot on one target stage, and step back and let Shooter 2 shoot on the other target stage... then score and paste both. 11. Bring as many magazines as possible, and load them all to max capacity. 12. RO reminds shooters of next string, shooter-ready, who's on deck, etc... 13. Try to swap RO's after an hour or so. As the RO gets tired, there's more wasted time. 14. Suggested magazine loading: Stage 1: 9/12/9, Stage 2: 12/6/12, Stage 3: Fill 'em all the way up. Thanks JANE, GOF, Drachen27 and Steve Koski

OK, thanks for answers and opinions. It appears I am correct in thinking that it took too long. If I ever go to another one, I will be sure to bring along 'Jane's' 8-point list. Thanks Jane! -

Well, there were two bays. There was about 7 guys in the other bay and they finished about an hour before us.

Went to my first IDPA classifier yesterday. It took just over 4 hours to run 9 shooters through. Gawd dang, it just seemed like a long time - maybe 'cause the classifier is kinda boring. Does that time seem about right? Was I maybe drinking too much Dunkin' Donuts coffee??????

Yeah, me too. A tiny bit of deburring, and I was good to go.

I bought a G34 Gen4 a few months ago. I've been very happy with it. But the trigger was rough, to say the least. I started with a meticulous "25 cent trigger polish". There's a million links and videos showing how to do this. I never did find a completely thorough video or web site that show ALL of the spots that needed polishing/deburring, but if you start watching some of the videos, you quickly get the idea. Once you get familiar with the trigger parts, then you can start doing some careful polishing. This alone will smooth things up. But on mine, there was some deburring that also had to be done. A Dremel tool (or similar) and small polishing wheel with some buffing compound are necessary items for the polishing. Be careful not to let the polishing wheel grab the part, as it can throw the part into your face, or bend the part. I use 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper (on a popsicle stick) for deburring. I eventually installed a 3.5 lb trigger kit and now my trigger is smoooooth and sweet. Really a pleasure to shoot.... There are some caveats here. If you install 3.5 lb trigger kit, and have internal trigger parts with rough edges that are sticking or binding, then unsafe operating conditions may ensue. JMHO, of course. Make all mods at own risk. Good luck

Interesting info, thanks very much....

RE: Gen 4 beavertail backstrap............ The Photos are from this post about SHOT 2012: http://gunnuts.net/2012/0.../gen-4-glock-beavertail/ -

Thanks all. I appreciate the help. I have been Dremeling off some of the backstrap. It seems to be helping. I think I will keep Dremeling..... Thanks again

Pistolero - I guess I didn't do quite enough homework.....

Recently bought Glock 34 Gen4. I like it very much, but the grip angle is quite different (well documented) than the 1911 pistols I am used to shooting. Does anyone know how I might be able to get the aim point a tad lower and still be legal for SSP? I bought a "Grip Force" adapter and tried that out, it worked pretty good, but is considered a rule violation for SSP so I can't use it in competition. Grip tape and grip sleeves are allowed though, and I'm curious if anyone has used tape and/or grip sleeve to revise the grip angle on their Glock? Thanks for any help. Dave in RI

Thanks for replies gents. In that pic, I am forcing my finger as far as it will go just to show the extra distance available. I always apply trigger pressure with just the tip of my trigger finger, NOT the way the pic shows. I ordered a 'Grip Force' adapter and am gonna give that a whirl. I think it will help change the grip angle to more of a 1911 style. Thanks again.