teros135

Give it time ...

Wonderful. Now we can all put it to rest and go back to the *real* work of dry firing... ...or somebody can start a 5-page argument of the fine points of language and interpretation. It's the BE way.

Wish I could do that, but I can't wear contacts myself. Sounds like a good idea.

A while ago I had a pair of glasses made that are larger than my regular glasses and have a +1.0 (reader strength) lens for the dominant eye and "plano" lens (no power) for the nondominant eye. I put them over my regular glasses and can see both the sights and the targets. More recently, I asked my ophthalmologist to change my dominant-eye Rx by the +1.0, which has the same effect but on a single pair of glasses. I shoot dots with my regular prescription. No problems, and it's a lot easier to see everything ("older guy" solution).

Yep...the windage and elevation screws will both rotate, even when the locking screw is tight, making you think it's faulty. Give it a try unlocked, and continue from there. No use sending it in when you don't need to.

I guess you could call and ask

Another option is to use a dovetail plate. I have CZC and Henning plates for the SP01. Both work fine. If you're going to have the slide machined, CMore tells us it isn't a good idea to have it machined for a "snug" fit back to front. Looks nice, but the slide batters the scope more if it's touching back and front. They say to leave a little room in the cut and let the screws and locating pins hold the scope in place.

4 No, in CO you can't use a SA *only* gun, and you can't start with the hammer cocked. CZ works just fine, which is why so many folks use them in Prod and CO.

A friend did "unload and go bang" at the end of our second stage of our first major (L2) match. It was painful for him, and painful to watch. We learned. Now many of us (1) cycle the slide several times to be sure only one round comes out (i.e., we've dropped the mag) and some of us also (2) drop the gun to waist height and look down the magwell to see the ground (i.e., we've dropped the mag). Practice, practice, practice.

The optic manufacturers tell us they want a slight gap forward and aft, so the slide isn't transmitting 100% of the force and momentum into the optic. A little clearance is a good thing.

Me, too. Their web site looks overhyped. And no one I talked to about them at a state championship this weekend had heard of them...

Production is dying out?

They don't actually have instructions for a lot of the things we need to do to tune the Evo/Revo properly and keep them running. There is a user manual for each machine on the Mark 7 Community and some various tune-up and troubleshooting guides there also, and a couple of videos. I've found that the "fine tuning" tips come from hours of trying different things to make it work, occasional phone conversations with customer service, and tips from fellow travelers here on BE. They do have a couple of guides for the primer system, including "EVO Primer Stating Troubleshooting", which is probably the best of the lot. I read, or heard, about lightly lubing the sides of the primer slider somewhere... The manual (tube-fed) priming system is a weak point of the machine. I often have primers jump out of the cup in the shuttle and jam up the machine, causing Digital Clutch stoppages (on the downstroke) or TorqueSense stops (on the upstroke, as the shellplate is trying to rotate but is jammed by the wayward primer). I get failures to index, which don't seem to have any obvious cause, but I wonder if the overly sensitive primer system might be involved. The shuttle is too "floppy" and you can't adjust the forward travel, to it overtravels and is popped back into position by the indexing pin on the bottom of the tool head, which causes it to jump about and probably contributes to primers getting loose from the shuttle pocket and jamming up the works. I do have the two plastic covers for the shuttle, but it still happens. Takes several minutes to clear a jammed primer, because you have to remove the front plastic cover and then the primer tube system to get the little devil out. Regarding primer system lubrication, there is a Daily Hardware Check and Lubrication Guide, but you'll find that other documents or phone conversations contradict some of the instructions there. The Guide doesn't mention the primer shuttle. (The most problematic lubrication issue is the Top Pin of the crank assembly, the one the connects the bottom of the ram with the crank assembly. It's not mentioned in any of the manuals, and there is no way to lube it. That's a conversation for another day...)

Why would anyone use different load data when loading on a different machine? The load is the load It's not machine-dependent, it's gun- and shooter-dependent.

More speed than 3000 or 3500? Please explain.

Net output there is about 1511 RPH.

Are you loading 9mm or 38 SC? Do you lube your brass? If it's .223 or .308, I can understand the longer bottom dwell. (I load at 3, with 9mm and lube. At 2 I get too many torque sensor stops. At 3 I still get some ...)

Yeah, me too. The case feed system also seems to be happier at a slower speed. Nature of the beast, y'know.

The Evo (and I think also the Revo) isn't designed to do active loading at 3500 RHP. That's more a speed for brass processing. 3000 also. (Those speeds were recently added to keep up with "the other guys", I'm told.) None of this is in the manual, but then most of how the machine actually works isn't. OP's settings yield a net output of about 1700 RPH, because everything is slowed down so much. I've been running 9mm at 2000 RPH, Index 1, and Bottom Dwell 1 and get the same yield of 1700 (slower, actually, due to stoppages, but that's another conversation). Changing out primers takes 12-15 seconds every 100 rounds, so that also slows things a bit from 1700. I've been unable to run faster than 2000 with my own settings (above) because the primers and case feed go wacko at 2500 and up. I like echotango's settings. They yield about 2080 RPH (minus primer changeovers), and the slower index may help with case feeding. The primer shuttle still whips around pretty fast, though. I'm going to give this a try tomorrow and see how it turns out. My sensors include Swage (actually not real useful; Decap might be better unless it doesn't catch "ringers"), Primer tube, Primer Orientation (crucial), Powder Check, and BulletSense (a real pain to adjust but very useful - catches indexing failures as well as missed or fallen-over bullets).

In USPSA, that would be Open Div.

Sarcasm? Changing the Divisions around seems to be an ongoing source of amusement for everyone. Just trying to get my personal needs met!

Yes, and for crying out loud let us have a magwell and at least a small comp. Just one chamber, or maybe two small ones. That might reduce Open's unfair competitive advantage a bit. And the lead-filled flashlight body mentioned above - didn't that work pretty well in Limited?

OP, you're not alone. The primer system is one of the "soft" points of the Evo/Pro. It's basically a beefed-up version of the 1050 priming system, but it seems to have the same weaknesses. Also, the Evo is a highly-engineered but exquisitely sensitive machine that needs a lot of fine adjustments to keep it running. I've found that the stacked priming system and case feed system (case feed assembly + shell plate) are common causes of stoppages. Sometimes it runs fine, sometimes it can't do 100 rounds without stopping. And yes, I've followed every bit of advice from M7, their manuals and handouts, the M7 Community (which is pretty sparse), and here at BE, and put countless hours into making it run. With the primer system, it's crucial to check the alignment of the primer tube over the primer pocket in the shuttle, adjustment of the primer shuttle's stop point in its travel backward (to align it properly with the shuttle pocket), and making sure the downward end of the internal primer tube and the shuttle pocket are smooth and with no rough edges. The lower end of the primer tube gets chopped up over time due to wayward movements of primers and screws up the smooth delivery of primers into the pocket. You need to take the primer feed ass'y off at intervals and clean everything to keep grit out of it. Oil the sides of the shuttle lightly, per the instructions. There doesn't seem to be any way to keep primers from flipping out of the shuttle and getting crushed between the shell plate and the primer tube flange, even with a protective plastic plate over the gap between them or at the aft end of the shuttle (just like the 1050...). It will also fail to feed primers at regular intervals. A Primer Orientation Sensor helps keep the mess down by stopping the machine. It also "smears" primers fairly regularly, perhaps because the primer seating rod gets stuck in the large hole at the front of the shuttle. That needs to be smoothed and polished. You might need to keep the production rate at 2000 RPH or less. The shuttle moves pretty fast at any speed, and the faster you cycle the more likely things will go wrong. None of this is new. Many folks have had these problems; it seems "built in" to the design. They're apparently working on a new primer feed design; that may be the Evo-version primer collator that we've heard about (not out yet). Best of luck with your Evo Pro. It can be an adventure!

Well, we do beat the little fellows up pretty regularly, especially on CO guns ...

Like I said, call them. And listen to the folks who actually own them. Yes, CMore needs to update their web site. That's on them.