teros135
-
Posts
2,194 -
Joined
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by teros135
-
-
The EemannTech one won't lock back on any of three CZ 75 Shadows, including two SP01s, except sometimes when I'm cycling it by hand and empty.
-
Heck no. Leave it alone. It works.
-
Brass Juice also
-
Also, clean the primer pathway (tracks) regularly with alcohol and a q-tip.
And here's the big tip that made a massive difference for my RF-100 (small primers). Clean the small blue plastic piece into which the primers drop, just above the drop tube, with alcohol, AND then lube it with silicone spray on a Q-tip. (Some say Pledge also works.) The primers are far less likely to flip over when that part is slippery.
Don't get lube on the primer tracks, though - the primers won't move at all. The tracks have to be clean and dry. (Ask me how I know!)
-
The VA state match has had that several times, including one "heavy metal" stage. To their credit (I guess) they allowed the option of asking that the music be turned off. Not a fan of any of it, being that we're there to compete.
-
15+1 is Locap now? Wow!
-
And will either of the RP versions work with the MBF that has the mounting "pucks"? (The plastic DAA one doesn't, as the mounting rod interferes.)
-
Do you clean the emitter lens? When dirty, that puppy will cloud up the dot, make it change shape, and make it seem smaller and dimmer. it needs to be cleaned whenever you clean the front lens; it's the same dirt in both places.
For the RTS2 you'll need micro q-tips, sold by Amazon and others. The blue (largest) ones work best. Use 95% alcohol, if you have it. Other solvents will probably work, but you'll want something that doesn't leave a residue. Happy shooting!
-
Might you have changed your grip? That could affect how you shot all three guns...
-
Check and see if the bottom of the glass is moving forward out of the housing. When that happens the POI moves downward, and you run out of adjustment. I've seen it happen a couple of times (recoil is pretty rough on slide- mounted scopes).
-
No, no, no. Nobody cares where the brass ejects to, just that it ejects, reliably.
What we DO care about is sight return. You're looking for the spring that has the front sight (or dot) returning to the same spot (your POA) after the recoil.
For my particular setup (Shadow 1, RTS2), bullet and load, and grip/shooting style, a 11# works best. With a regular iron sight, it was 10#.
You have to try different combos to find out what works for you (and that may change over time). Good luck!
-
also ...
Open Senior - 2nd
Open Lady - 1st
Standard Lady - 2nd (of 2)
Prod Optics Lady - 3rd (of 3)
Prod Optics Senior - 1st
-
Open - 1st
Standard- 1st
Prod Optics Light - 1st
Prod Optics - 2nd
Production - 4th
(from Practiscore Competitor)
-
Nice idea, but are we talking about USPSA Carry Optics? if so, who makes a holster that will accommodate the slide stop/thumb rest *and* be legal for CO (distance from the inside of the belt)? Nobody seems to make one for the SSI Nitro Fin...
-
Nor here. What's going on?
-
1 hour ago, robertwyatt said:
Make sure your springs are all in working order. But also check your lifter spring to make sure it's still pushing the trigger bar up properly.
Also check the screw that secures the lifter spring and mag release spring. It's normally staked from the factory, but if it's ever been loosened and not re-staked it can work loose, the trigger bar won't lift, and the hammer won't go back. (I should have paid better attention to that a couple of years ago...
)
-
V5 is current, isn't it? They're quite robust, although like anything there can be a problem now and then. CMore is quick to fix them if that happens.
-
I just follow CGW's instructions. It's pretty straightforward. My SP01 hasn't changed setting since I put it in, and I'm about to do a second one.
-
6 hours ago, andyivan said:
I've had great luck with all my Holosuns
Mine, too
-
It's your choice. Just keep your finger away from the trigger and you'll be fine.
BTW, you can "pinch" the hammer and lower it or "roll" the hammer down with a finger between it and the frame. Rolling blocks the hammer all the way down and feels (to me) to be safer. YMMV.
-
10 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
this comes up amongst the less knowledgeable shooters literally every time we shoot a fixed time classifier. I just tell them fixed time is always virginia count too.
Good way to look at it.
-
I have to admit to not knowing that one either, having shot very few fixed-time COFs myself (and usually not making all the shots within the time limit, or just barely making it.
). Thanks to Chillywig for posting the whole sequence of that section of the rules which, in context, makes it clear. We'll all know the next time.
-
58 minutes ago, Schutzenmeister said:
I'm not going to weigh in on this particular incident ... There's just not enough information in the OP to make an informed call.
That said, the rules governing DQ for an AD under 10.4 (etc.) are VERY specifically worded. The shooter's actions either fall under one (or more) of these rules or they do not. If they do, it's a DQ ... full stop. If they don't, it's not a DQ, at least not under anything in 10.4.
You don't really need to LOOK for reasons to DQ someone. Generally speaking, if they have earned a DQ the reasons will be obvious and reasonably well defined under the rules.
Well said. I think this covers the situation.
-
That poor old horse. Somebody keeps coming back and beating him all over again.
Certified match ammo in S2O
in CZ
Posted · Edited by teros135
Add info
If it helps, my chrono info (Shadow 1) has the 147 gr Comp Minor ammo at 1.136" and PF 135.
My guns all run Blue Bullets 147 TC easily at 1.135", but RN hits the lands earlier and needs to be a bit shorter.