Tino2212
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Posts posted by Tino2212
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Stainless in Open , tungsten is for Limited .
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My Edge has about the same gap , on my 2011 Les Bear .40 and Custom build open gun the gap is smaller.
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We took the comped barrel out of my friends Tanfo because he had ectraction problems with It and put the standard back in .
he shoots minor loads and it was a big difference in recoil and barrel rise .
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Are you sure its the slide that is causing this "problem" , or could it also be the barrel !
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Don't know for sure but at least 40000 i bought it second hand .
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My old Tanfo gold custom cracked at the same place
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2 hours ago, Gooldylocks said:
Two different guns, so that pretty much eliminates fitting issues right there. Both were stippled, so perhaps it weakened the area around the mag catch enough that inserting a full magazine at make ready or something cracked them. But I don't really feel like either of my big sticks are "hard" to insert (I use quotations because, let's be honest, they are never going to be as easy to insert as a production mag or something).
Oke if they were stippled and maybe reduced then that could be the issue .
when you heat polymer too much you change its structure and it becomes brittle .
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9 hours ago, Shooter94 said:
1270 and no pressure signs
Oke so you need to put in more powder , but i would load them longer 1.165 or even longer than that .
i load my 9 Majors at 1.185 to reduce pressure so i can use more powder ( i use N350 or HS6 )for more gas to work the comp .
First check if this fits your chamber by plunk test !
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I you crack the polymer grips you almost sure wil crack the aluminium one .
i think you have some kind of problem with your gun ( fitting ) polymer grips almost never crack .
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The only perfect test for your ammo is plunk test them in your barrel , thats what i do for my match ammo .
For practice ammo i just load them and shoot them , never had a faillure so i think case gauges are a waist of money .
i dont want ammo that fits in a gauge i want ammo that works in my gun .
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I have a Meopta meostar R1 ( 1-4 x 22 ) with Kdot on my ipsc rifle AR15 very clear scope like it a lot .
Very nice scope for a nice price its not a Swarofski or Zeiss but it comes close .
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I don't " miss" it but i have also never had a primer falling out of my brass in 9 major .
And i reload my brass a least 10 times in major .
i start with once fired Geco brass.
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My Custom open build also has a Caspian slide my gun smith also likes using caspian slides for the same reason less chance of cracked slides .
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The set screw is for setting the amount of over travel ( how far the trigger moves backward after the hammer drops) .
For adjusting pre travel ( how far the trigger moves backward before the hammer drops )on a STI trigger there is a little tab at the front of the trigger bow you can bent .
make sure your gun stil passes the safety checks after adjusting .
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i work in batches of 1000 rounds so for now my dry one suits me , if i would have to clean 2000/2500 at a time maybe i would go wet to .
And yes i think we have a draw ?
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I does not matter to me how long the brass is in the dry thumbler eighter ( i don't stand there waiting for it to be clean ) normaly i put it in the thumbler before i go to sleep .
And then it's clean in the morning .
But You state the reason for you to wet thumble is TIME SAVING so i state that 3 hours is shorter than 2 -3 days before it is ready to reload .
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9 hours ago, Edge40 said:11 hours ago, Bkreutz said:
3 hours in walnut and polish is 3x longer than I spend wet tumbling. It takes me an hour to clean 2000 pistol cases, from the time I throw them in the cement mixer, until I spread them out on a towel to dry. (I'm not counting the drying time) 2-3 days later the brass is ready to use. I wet tumble to save time
How is 2-3 days before the brass is ready to use ( dry ) saving time against 3 hours in a dry tumbler and ready to use ?
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Open and slow heavy bullets is not the way to go .
for the comp to work you need gas , so light bullets with slow powder .
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We have tought about this but is there something else we can look at ?
does the barrel hood of a tanfo barrel need fitting ( like a 1911 ) or is it drop in ?
It seems to lock in fine but can if be a little to long so the barrel is not canting quick enough when unlocking ?
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Do not have a picture of the brass right now , but you can see that the extractor almost pulled a part of the rim .
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Mixed brass but also tried batches of one headstamp brass ( cbc / s&b / geco )
Also his ammo runs great in my gun as wel as in his gun with the non comped barrel we use the same ammo made on my Rl 550 .
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If we put the empty case back in ( the one that did not extract ) it falls just out if you turn the barrel up side down .
All rounds pass the plunk test .
the ectractor is marking the brass heavily ( big groove in the rim ) looks like the extractor hook is almost pulled trough the rim .
the stange thing is the gun can also shoot 50 / 60 rounds without problems and then starts having problems jamming 2 / 3 times within 15/20 rounds .
it is a 9 mm running minor PF loads .
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I have a question abouth a tanfoglio , we put a comped barrel in my friends Tanfoglio .
And now he has lots of failures to extract , slide goes back and leaves emty case in chamber .
looks almost like he pulls the extractor true the rim of the case , but case stays in the chamber .
Slide goes back and strips a new round from the mag and jams because he can not chamber this one because the empty case is stil in the chamber .
when we put the " normal " barrel back in the gun it works great again , what can be the reason for this ?
Does the barrel needs fitting just like a 1911 barrel or are tanfo barrels drop in ?
Hope someone here can lead us in the right direction .
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Maybe a silly question , but why did you change the extractor did you have problems with the old one ?
550 Shell Plate Loosening in 100 Rounds Loaded
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
+1 NJL if the set screw was to loose the shell plate would become tighter not looser .