Aiden

I've checked out his build for the Illinois Sectional. Sexy. Feels fantastic. I wouldn't hesitate to send him work.

Hi everyone, I recently put together a toy of sorts. I put a Limcat steel grip on my STI 4.0 Tactical. Picture so the thread isn't useless. Anyway, on to actual questions. My gen 1 STI 9mm mags work great with the grip. They drop free easily and engage the magazine catch fully. When the grip was on my 40SW Limited gun, I had zero issues with SV 40SW mags, STI gen 1 mags, and MBX gen 1 and 2 mags. Same magazine catch. A friend's Atlas tuned Gen 2 STI mags seemed to get stuck just a few millimeters short of the magazine catch. I only tried two of them. They did not engage the magazine catch, and did not drop free. What am I missing? The differences between 9mm and 40SW setup are as follows: MSH is different. Factory STI polymer. Trigger is different. Factory STI polymer. Grip bushings are different. Factory STI. Frame is... Obviously different. Should I blame his magazines? Blame my grip bushings? Gen 2 dimensions are significantly different?

Of the 6 or 7 threaded magazine releases I've owned, CK/Dawson/STI, all have been 4-40.

Currently experimenting with a heavier build. 6 inch bushing barrel 2011. 51oz no mag. Short dust cover. Coming from shooting a 6 inch bushing barrel build, 48oz no mag. Also a short dust cover. Funnily enough I liked 39 to 42oz with a plastic grip, then hated 43 to 46oz. Only so many ways to distribute the weight with a steel grip gun, so it wasn't until I hit 48 that I started to like it again.

Limcat is the first one that comes to mind. Has a giant shelf too if you want to reprofile it.

I rack from the front by smacking my palm against the top of the slide. Serrations or not, the pro grip palm has a high enough coefficient of friction to manipulate the slide. I've done this with naked slides, cerakoted slides, and Glocks. I do shoot 6 inch guns though so maybe that extra inch makes handling it easier...

Gotcha. Someone who will remain nameless in this thread has regularly left part of his thumb on one of my guns (now his). Very obvious it was happening, even if it didn't necessarily cause a malfunction. Hence the shielded safety.

Do you have a distinct smudge of what used to be your skin cells and oil on the slide after you shoot? Or is it just not returning to battery for other reasons? Blood is also a good indicator if you cut yourself on serrations. Similar question is if it returns to battery every time when you consciously move your thumb away from the slide when firing.

My next build I'd consider doing an EGW. It has the most meat so I could pin it from the start and blend it in the fixed position. It'd potentially have that cool seamless look. But I've been very happy with the Cheely ones. Reasonable price, fixed works great with polymer MSH, and generally they're a decent fit and can be blended okay to most frames.

I have uhhh 3 of the Cheely pinned beavertail GS. It works out really well on my CK frame, but it still has a slight gap in the rear. It also wiggles slightly with my Dawson MSH so I ended up pinning it anyway. The EGW grip safety was fantastic because it had so much you could remove and fit, but I didn't want to fit it to a finished frame so I went with something closer to drop in. The Cheely was closer to drop in so I actually ended up using that instead as well (hence the second one). I do some minor blending but I just want them comfortable, not beautiful. Lastly I've several Ed Brown memory groove grip safeties, and I hate the memory groove. So I keep removing them and installing Cheely fixed safeties instead.

It's different for every gun, every time... Lol You won't know how much fitting it'll really need until you've got the part, your frame, and your ignition. Generally I'd say machined parts will be easiest to fit because the tolerances are better, and they'll probably last longer. If you can understand how the part is intended to function, you'll be well positioned to fit it. Use sharpie, check often, and go slowly and you'll probably be fine. Brazos has a great guide on their website. If you've never installed a safety before, I always advise buying an inexpensive Wilson or Ed Brown single side safety and fitting that first. If you screw up you're only out 30 bucks, and if you do it correctly, you have a spare backup safety that's fit to your gun.

What is it that interests you? The flat angle vs a radius?

Limcat, PT, and Swenson shielded safeties will prevent this. Sandman's Limcat shielded safety is awesome and feels way better than the Swensons. I would trim the ledge significantly with my grip. They feel... weird if you're used to having your thumb right in line with the top of the grip, since they'll push it out to the side a little. But you can hug nice and tight and never fear for touching the slide.

100% can confirm the Limcat grip feels smaller than the SV. It's especially narrow in the back. Feels very 1911esque from behind. If you like that, then I think it's the grip for you. Especially since it doesn't have that ergo curve like the PT Evo and SV Signature do.

I just stole my friends 30lpi file and I've got a 20lpi and I'm not going to lie ... I had a real itch to try an SV trigger again... I guess the upside is I'll only ruin the insert, not the entire trigger.

I'm still very partial to the STI polymer long curve trigger. Most of my STI gunsmith blanks end up strongly resembling the length, curve, and texture. I prefer some texture on my trigger face, so the SV smooth trigger shoe isn't my favorite thing in the world.

I would say start with a 100% lower if you're looking to build for the first time. It's more or less good to go and wouldn't require you buying a jig or milling anything. They aren't significantly less expensive, unless you have access to tools/fixtures already.

How high are your standards? Do you just want a gun that runs? Will it be a backup gun? Do you want fancy slide cuts or classic serrations? Are you patient?

Grip worked out pretty well. I put it on a (new to me) gun that I haven't shot much so I'm still working out the timing. Grip is about as aggressive as I like em. Shooting factory AE 40S&W 180gr.

A used factory STI is still an STI under warranty. I don't think you'll go wrong. If you have a buddy with some know how, you could have them look to see if it has been modified or "customized" in any way that could be an issue. Or post pictures here and people could weigh in on possible issues. I recommend reviewing how to properly check the safety function of a 2011, and maybe a firing pin function test. I've never been in a gun shop that wouldn't let me at least do safety function check and a bore light/pencil test on used guns when I asked.

I just picked up the new Limcat steel grip. I've been wanting one ever since I decided the Cheely E2 profile and weight wasn't my cup of tea. Grip is lighter and less aggressive than the Cheely E2. I would say it's comparable to a DVC grip, or slightly more aggressive than a factory STI grip. Overall, installation required a fair amount of fitting. My Brazos magwell needed a minor amount removed from the rear sides in order to slide into the grip fully. I had to profile the top and bottom of my STI magazine release in order to fit and move freely. Basically just lengthened the flats on both sides.The two other STI mag catches I had were a little closer to fit but would've needed work as well. I also had to blend the forward edges to the curve of the grip. The grip and frame took a lot more than my Cheely. I had to carefully remove material from the grip or the frame, like a raised edge or burr that didn't interfere with plastic grips, from about 6 different points of contact as the fit got closer and closer. Cerakote on the frame was rubbed raw in some places. Like the Cheely, installing the trigger guard sleeve/barrel thing took a little work. Outer diameter and inner diameter were exactly the same. A little bit of #4 needle filing and sandpaper smoothed it all out. Sleeve is snug fit and both recess into the trigger guard like they should. It's exactly 6oz heavier than my STI plastic grips (give or take a few tenths for reduction). 8.5oz by itself. As others have said, it's slim. The rear comes in around 1.18inches and the front is right at 1.2. it's wedge or teardrop shaped, tapers towards the back. It immediately reminded me of a single stack with thin grips from the back. The front profile is rounded and wider relative to the rear, and happens to match my "best fit" STI grip profile. I've found this design works great for my hand and grip. My 6 inch guns are 38 and 38.1oz (unloaded and no mag) respectively with polymer grips, so 44oz feels like a great middleweight for me. Weighed this before I finished fitting/installing the trigger guard sleeve but it's close enough. Live fire testing will occur in an hour or two.

I might be buying another V2 here shortly. I just grabbed the new Limcat steel grip, and with a Brazos magwell and plastic msh it's exactly 44oz on my 6" gun (unloaded no mag). Gotta figure if I want to add to the weight since 48oz felt so sluggish to me when I was experimenting with the Cheely/V2.

The infinity notched rear sight is my favorite. Most of my guns, 5 and 6 inch, get set up with 0.75 front sights and 0.125 (or .135) rear. I usually go a little deeper on the notch as well. Rear sight picture with 75 front

You've got two very similarly set up 2011s. It would be relatively inexpensive to get them to match reasonably well (magwells, undercut, and trigger). Unless you have a reason to keep the TSO, you're basically set for an ideal primary and backup Limited gun.

I don't really see modifying Dawsons as viable, but mine are currently on loan (and being used with a V1 incidentally). Removing any material at all from the Dawson seems like it's going to compromise the design. Might be a better move to sell and swap. I suppose we need a guy with a silver sharpie and some 140mms to shove them into his V2 and see what happens. For science.