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Aiden

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Everything posted by Aiden

  1. Hi all, Picked up my CO Stock 2 and shot a local match for the first time in forever and had a blast. So my renewed interest in the gun has me wondering if I should checker the trigger guard to scratch my personal preference. Anyone here seen/had that done? Any issues getting through the chrome or is it thin enough to remove without too much trouble?
  2. For one thing, a frame mount puts less stress on your mRDS. Open guns already break optics without making them cycle with the slide. I'd say it's usually easier to pick up a dot and track dot bounce on an frame mount since the sight doesn't move with the slide when shooting.
  3. I use them once it's clear I'm done taking apart the gun for awhile. If I'm fiddling with the trigger, etc, I probably won't put them back until I'm happy with it. Red loctite one screw, blue on the other, haven't lost one since.
  4. Are you using the "Tall" Fattie magwell? The "Tall" version requires you to use longer mag tubes to prevent baseplates from hitting. Your magwell is "RI-MWT" which makes me think it's the Tall version. If your factory RIA came with a magwell, you already have a cut back frame. So I'm guessing you'll need the standard Fattie magwell, not the Tall. Pretty sure those are marked "RI-MW" https://taylorfreelancestore.com/rock-island-fattie-speed-well-aluminum/
  5. Did your gun come with a magwell from the factory? Which version of the magwell did you buy from TF? This might be relevant?
  6. I was a huge fan of the DAA Racer/Racemaster/Alpha X. I still think it's one of the best holster options once you've got it set up and loctited. Used it with basically every grip made, polymer or steel, and if you're running a less popular grip it takes a little fiddling to find the insert that works best for some of the trigger guard profiles out there. Locked in, the DAA is pretty solid. The holster itself has minimal presence on my belt compared to some monsters like the Safariland 014 or even the MRH. Draw is pretty smooth and it's the bar by which I measure other holsters. That said, the MRH is a smoother/easier/more forgiving draw. The gun basically flies out of it compared to the DAA, and the DAA has a good draw. I have a slight rocking motion with a buddy's SV trigger guard, but my SV with traditional profile is a better fit. I run the thigh pad. Absolutely necessary with my body. MRH also wears larger on the belt compared to the DAA, but not quite as large as the 014. Adjustment is great, feels better than the DAA approach. I have seen just a little more contact wear on the bottom of my frame with the MRH compared to the DAA, but I'm currently using a gun with a very delicate finish compared to cerakote/dlc.
  7. I ran 40 minor briefly when experimenting with CO. Around here the magazine capacity difference wasn't really an advantage except on a few 20ish round stages. Shoots really soft and I have way more 40 components than 9mm components. If it's cost effective for you, I say go for it. You can always go to 9mm later.
  8. I was reading through this and seeing a lot of the old school suggestions for tightening up 1911 frame rails. Then everyone chimed in... Back in the old days, you hit it with a hammer until it was better. There was more to it but the principle is sound. Weld and recut the rails sounds like a solid option if you can find someone who can be precise. That'll tighten up any fit for sure.
  9. Get one. So cool. We all know extra barrel length means the bullet exits the gun closer to the target, therefore is more likely to result in an Alpha.
  10. Also great advice. One of the reasons I bought every single configuration of gun was to explore what I liked and didn't like. Would have never discovered my love of 6 inch sight radius and balance of short dust cover/bushing barrel without it.
  11. I've got 5 inch guns and 6 inch guns. And I've swapped between them more than I'd say is ideal. My 5 inch guns and my 6 inch guns shoot differently sure, but I have enough comfort and confidence with them that it doesn't make a huge difference in my low level performance. If you're looking to win majors, I'd get as close to twins as possible. If you're shooting locals, I think you'll be fine with whatever you find as a backup.
  12. I only shoot local matches, infrequently at best. But you never think you need a backup gun until you actually need a backup gun. Unless you always have a buddy with you who can loan you a gun because your rear sight broke, I would say it's worth having something just in case. If you have the money, I say go for it. Pick up something used and you can probably get your money back when it's time to upgrade.
  13. Did you check your extractor yet? Check the tension, for any excess movement, etc. If it's loose and slipping, could explain the erratic failure to extract.
  14. Did you ever end up doing this? My CO gun had the front sight post knocked off and just the base installed. Looks clean and is really affordable to do.
  15. Yep, what he said. Try them all and see what works for your setup. I would try a range from 12lb to 14lb.
  16. I love the height of the Atlas shielded safety, it's no contest between that and Limcat if you're looking for that high thumbs grip. Almost every safety I ran I needed to cut down the pad to low profile because my weak hand has a tendency to bump it on during manipulations, including the Limcat, EGW, etc. Atlas is the only one I kept most of the paddle intact because it's well above my stupid hand.
  17. I like 6 inch for the sight radius. When I was C class and B class, the confidence in my sight picture on the far shots was great. I ran tiny front with wide rear notch, (0.070ish and 0.125 ish) to give me lots of light and float a tiny dot in the center of it. Like everyone said, 6 inch guns cut properly won't have weight penalties vs standard 5 inch guns. I tend to favor a short dust cover with steel guide rod, for the right balance. Too nose heavy and the front of the gun will pull in transition, so I like most of the weight in my hand. Benny Hill Fat Free is what got me hooked on 6 inch in the first place. Loved that gun.
  18. I had to do a little bit of fitting when I put an EGW disco into my Cheely frame, but once it was all said and done I had no disco click.
  19. I sold my Glocks off, along with all my gear, three separate times in the last 8 years. And I keep buying another one. Just bought another frame and am assembling a Glock 19 build... The trigger will never be "better" than worked over hammer fired guns or even other striker guns. But it'll be good enough. A Glock trigger that includes a redesigned trigger bar "fin" or tweaked travel will probably be the only way you'll see huge differences in how it works. I say decide how much you want to spend, decide if you prefer a rolling break vs a well defined wall, and decide if you want to run Federal primers only. I like a reliable gun with a rolling break, and I'm cheap. So I'd do a Zev connector, lots of polish, and go from there. If money were no object, Johnny Glock trigger is very cool.
  20. The best part about a short block kit is that the slide cuts may already be done. It keeps you from being an insomniac moron with a bunch of hand files and a "can do" attitude... Ask me how I know. But as others have said, even though the heavy lifting is done already with a kit, you still have "relatively minor" fitting and work to be done in order to get your gun running reliably. Don't buy secondhand parts. I'm confident enough in my ability to make things work but I still have about 6 different sets of everything because NOTHING WORKS WHY DID I BUY THIS WHAT MORON FIT THIS SAFETY WHY WOULD YOU DO THIS?! If you're looking at a budget way to try out 2011s... just buy a used Edge, custom, or semicustom that pops up on the Classifieds. Some great deals out there for under 2k.
  21. I just open up my rear notch to fit my preference. 0.070 front, 0.125 rear. My go to setup for 6 inch and 5 inch guns. I think I installed a 0.130 rear at one point.
  22. New mag springs and everything is resolved nicely. Thanks for the help everyone!
  23. I have not. I will do that now. The magazine catch is for right hand.
  24. Hi everyone, I've been having a recurring issue with two of my magazines not dropping free at the local matches. Looks like rounds are walking forward. I'm running 40S&W so OAL is a little different. So far I've checked the following: Feed lip dimensions are well within spec for all the mags Rounds are loaded to factory OAL. RNFP 40S&W SNS coated bullet. Center rib is polished and a nice bevel has been made. What should I be checking next? Magazine spring? Any magazine catch things I should look for?
  25. I tried a brush on my rotary tool once. Once I destroyed it trying to speed it up, I went back to a squirt of CLP and a stiff bristle brush.
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