PatJones
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Posts posted by PatJones
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As a gunsmith I spend too much time chasing parts for proprietary gas piston ARs. If you shoot with a suppressor they keep the excess gas out of your face, but they do not group as well as a standard gas system and it's a pain to get parts.
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That was it Pat.
Muchas gracias!
Glad to help.
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Is there a stock rear sight that is .140" wide with a deeper notch that is compatible with the stock front on a 5" 627 or do you pretty much have to get an aftermarket blade? After seeing the stock rear and the limited sight light around the front, I am definitely going to need something new. Am I correct in my assumption if I get a .160 rear and mill the notch open to .140" the front sight will need to be replaced as well?
Lee
There is no stock rear with a .140 notch. If you have a milling machine you can open up the notch yourself. A file can work too, but they never look quite as square to me. The Weigand blade is the same height as a factory .160 blade.
I've never shot a front sight narrower than .125, I've thought about it but I already own the standard width stuff. My rear notch measures .135 wide, a little narrower than the Weigand.
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The BMT mooners are the way to go.
http://www.bmtequipped.com/products.php
I moon by hand, but I have enough clips I don't have to deal with it at a match. If i was in the market for a moonclip tool, the BMT is the only one I'd look at.
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Thanks for that info. So, can you tell us about the actual, visual, sight-pic benefits when compared to guns with sights on slides? I've never shot a revolver...
There are people who have never shot revolvers?
As a revolver shooter I've been curious about the sight tracker guns myself. I have a hard time tracking the front sight on an auto, when they go bang the top of the gun explodes and stuff flies out everywhere.
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As Noted above, Jerry's video is very useful. Elmer Kieth's "sixguns" has a chapter on double action shooting that was helpful for me as well. There isn't a good revolver-specific action pistol book yet. But Jerry's video does a good job of filling in the blanks left by the auto-pistol books.
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I used to run that rear on my 627. My front sight is .250 high.
I stopped using the Wiegand rear sight after the second time it bent down causing my gun to lose elevation. I'm a slow learner. I now run a factory .160 blade with the notch deepened and opened up the same as my old Weigand blade.
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To me, that points to the DA sear, possibly I cut a slight ledge trying to polish it.
When you polished the point on the sear you likely changed the angle slightly. What you are experiencing is called a sear click. Before you try to fit a new sear, change the angle of the sear so that it ends in a slightly steeper point. You will want to remove material from the rear corner of the sear looking at the gun from the side. You don't want to remove too much our you will cause the action to stub when it transitions off the sear. The fix for a stub is a new sear so its not a big deal.
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I've seated 1000's of small and large primers in loaded rounds using at first a Lee tool, it didn't make it very long before the lever/handle broke. I've since used the K&M tool but is about to give up, the linkage is worn badly. Going to try the Sinclair next.
The part that holds the shell holder on my K&M cracked. I called them and they were very helpful in getting it back up and running. I have used the Sinclair and prefer the K&M.
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Uniforming primer pockets allows for better "feel" when seating primers. I have considered doing this myself, but I'm getting good ignition now. You can really feel when the primer touches the bottom of a uniformed pocket. I've used the Sinclair uniforming tool on rifle cartridges to good effect. Cut until you clean up the radius in the bottom corner of the pocket and stop. Don't continue cutting until the tool reaches maximum depth, this just moves you further away from the firing pin. The benefit is having a square corner to seat your primers against.
The K&M primer tool has adjustable leverage. If you screw the shell holder out a little bit it takes very little effort to seat the primers. I would probably start here before I uniformed my primer pockets.
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Are those Herret Shooting Star grips?
Yes but I've since taken them off for more clearance on reloads.
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I'm a sucker for punishment, I load all of my ammo single stage. I use a K&M primer tool to hand seat all of my primers after resizing and flaring the case neck. I wouldn't dare seat primers after completely assembling the cartridge. And you will find powder leaks out thru the flash hole if you forget a primer.
Does the 550 not seat primers as well as the 1050? On a progressive it seems you would have to decap, hand-prime and then load. It adds enough steps that single stage isn't that much slower.
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I built that setup when i was in gunsmithing school at Trinidad State Jr College.
I looks really good, I remember seeing a Dan Wesson kit at a gun show some years back. It had 3 barrels and tools. With your set up you have the nice Smith and Wesson trigger and the versatile barrel.
I always meant to build multiple barrel lengths but my interest moved on. After that I built a .454 on a Ruger bisley frame. It too has a custom barrel, but without an underlug I was able to make it out of a solid steel barrel blank.
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I built that setup when I was in gunsmithing school at Trinidad State Jr College. It's difficult to source a large diameter barrel blank to make a solid steel barrel so the 3-piece barrel made good sense at the time.
It is very light, I have a 7-shot titanium cylinder I've been meaning to fit to it. With the changes to the ICORE limited rules allowing aftermarket barrels, I'm conidering building one for my 627 PC. I think a 6.5" shrouded barrel would transition nicely, yet allow for a longer sight radius.
I've heard about the barrel harmonics as well. It does shoot very accurately, but that may be due to the Shilen barrel blank I used.
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Here's a few pictures of a 4" barrel I made for my 686 no dash. It's basically a Dan Wesson style barrel system with an aluminum shroud.
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With full power loads it is more than a .454 Casull. It seems that way to me anyhow.
You think? I've had to sight in a couple for customers and I didn't find them too bad. The last one, a 6" (i think) with a scope was less punishing than my 4" 629. My 454 Blackhawk is a bit worse, with full-house loads. It's a smaller frame.
The .450 on the other hand has punishing muzzle blast. Recoil is not so bad but at our indoor range it's loud. Cleared my sinuses at the first shoot.
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Keep it straight, but you only need to polish the raised surface. Its easier to do than on the older guns. I think its an improvement.
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Well I'm not going to say don't buy a revo. But with a few ten round magazines you would fit right in to limited 10. A couple extra rounds and major scoring doesn't suck.
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If you deepen the notches, the cylinder stop rides a little higher in the frame. This will close up the gap between the stop and the trigger. If this gap completely closes up the stop will not reset, locking up the gun on the second shot.
If you open the cylinder and run the revolver while holding the release button back, does the stop drop below the frame?
If you remove the stop from the frame, will it freely fit into each slot on the cylinder?
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It's my understanding that the notches are intentionally longer, and off center from where that used to be. This was one of the changes made to the guns a part of the "endurance package" the gun writers like to talk about. The magnum guns were unlocking during recoil and the new design helps with that.
If you deepen the notches you will alter the timing of the cylinder stop and you may run into problems.
What is your trigger pull weight? Below 6.5 lbs i find that i skip by chambers when i hesitate on a sight picture. It's a user error, but a little extra weight on the trigger completely eliminates it for me.
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so how long does it take to learn to count to 8,I can see myself shoot 6 reload and shoot 6, leaving live rounds all over the ground:)
Not that long, you'll be good at your first match. You'll be very aware that you have an extra two. The only mistakes I made were when I got flustered and lost track of where I was at.
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Bo Clerk passed away last year.
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Senior moment? I almost typed Patridge rear sight last night. I'm only 43.
If you have access to the facilities, sights can be parkerized and then blued before installation. It makes for the darkest matte black you can imagine.
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Kirby,
Did you use a .312 barrel or a .308? The .308 diameter bullet selection seems a little better in the heavier bullets.
What else to do on an action job?
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I'm not sure there is a big benefit to trigger pulls less than 7 lbs. I was running at 6 for a while and ended up putting a half pound back on.
That said, with your Bang main spring you can trim 2 coils off an 11 pound Wolff recoil spring it will run at 6 lbs with an extended firing pin. I don't know what rebound spring ships with the bang kit, I recontour factory main springs. You could trim 2 coils off the one you have and see what it gets you. You need to balance the 2 springs. The hammer has to pop the primer, but the rebound spring needs to lift the hammer as the trigger resets. It is better to shorten the strain screw to set the hammer weight, but a lot of guys get by with Loctite on the strain screw. I don't have a preference on extended fitting pins.