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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

PatJones

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Posts posted by PatJones

  1. I've used Titegroup for 38, 40 & 45 and have never had a problem with gas cutting the top strap. Being a lefty, I've burned myself a few times on the forcing cone, but haven't seen any indications of erosion on the top strap.

    That's funny. Being a righty I've burned myself a few times on the forcing cone too.
  2. I was using 9mm dies with my mid colt loads.

    I just checked the SAAMI specs. The case diameter for .38 special is .379 max with tolerance of -.006. The corresponding dimension for 9mm is .381 with a tolerance of -.007. This is a bit bigger, but most dies should be on the small side which would put you in the tolerance range of .38 special.

  3. 9mm's fatter on the bottom than .38 is, so 9mm sizing anything (to include a casepro) won't work. But, what's helpful are 9mm seating and crimp dies, since .357 dies might not have seater stems etc. capable of handling the stubbier case. The shellplate's going to be the same as for .38 special.

    Yes, 9mm cases are typically fatter at the base. If we use steel resizing dies this would be the case. Our carbide sizing dies use a single ring of carbide and turn a 9mm case into a straight wall case. Think about the wasp waisted appearance of a reloaded 9mm.

    You can resize a short colt case with a 9mm die, but depending on the thickness of the case walls it may or may not provide the correct case tension. I don't load short colt so someone else will need to speak to this.

  4. I always fill my rack when I go to the line. In my case that's eight moon clips.

    I load strong hand and usually grab moons from right to left. But if I'm shooting to my left and need a reload, I'll grab one closer to the gun.

    The other advantage to a full rack is that when I'm gathering spent moonclips, I can look down and immediately know if I'm missing one.

  5. I took the guts out of a 38 special Lee factory crimp die and installed them in a old Lee expander die body I had sitting around. They drop right in, the parts inside the dies are there same diameter.

    I then cut the bottom of the die shorter so I could screw it down into the press further to crimp shorter cartridges. Without the carbide insert of a stock FCD it was easy to shorten things up. Works like a charm and doesn't resize my loaded lead bullets.

  6. I too use the old style tapered spring. I bend the top of the spring, the part containing the hook, down at about a 30° angle. This makes the overall length shorter. This is important to prevent knuckling when you reduce the length of the tension screw. I also arch it slightly after its in the gun.

    I measure the tension on the hammer by hooking a trigger pull gauge in the little notch formed by the bottom of the flat pad where the hammer hits the hiring pin. I pull the hammer back with the gauge parallel with the barrel. At the midway point of its travel, the tension on the hammer measures 2 7/8 pounds. All other tuning is done by polishing the action and playing with rebound springs.

    The hammers with the fixed firing pins are measured in the same manner, but you hook under the hammer nose. This is higher up on the hammer so the numbers are different. I've not worked on enough of these to have a firm number.

  7. A .38 S&W jammed up at the bottom of my case feed tube.

    Sorry, but that's your fault for using a case feeder. REAL men feed the cases by hand and visually inspect each one as they go. In the snow. 5 miles. Uphill. Both ways.

    Well I'll show you what a "REAL" man reloads with. No more Dillon 650. From now on I will do all my reloading on a single stage press and prime with a hand primer.
    That's what I do. Seriously. Single stage with a hand primer. The hand primer let's me run less tension on my hammer spring and still go bang.

    I also get all of my brass back neatly organized in moonclips too....

  8. My ICORE membership had lapsed when I renewed my membership this spring. I sent my check in May and my membership expired in September. September was my original anniversary date.

    I have tried contacting them 3 times regarding this issue, once by replying to a renewal notice and twice using the contact form on the ICORE website.

    Does anyone here at Benos know how to contact ICORE directly? I'd like to get this resolved.

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