tiger49931
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Posts posted by tiger49931
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i have also heard aftec extractors. and ismi springs and grams springs and internals for mags the mags i get but the gun parts them selves i was wondering why.
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My question here is basically what do you guys see as the flaw in the 2011 factory builds or their Achilles heel of the 2011 platform factory build. I just bought a marauder ( i know overpriced) But i wanted one so i got it. But what do you guys who have owned many of these and shot many more find to be the weakness and why ( it fails easily or they have a tendency to break? Or is it just more of a name thing Like bought best gun around the STI ______ and put in the _________ extractor and________hammer, ________ springs etc. just wondering.
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I never tried frog lube cause it looked like a Militec 1 knock off . just more hippie safe for the environment stuff . Militec has worked wonderfully on all my STI's and S&W's . only need to just wipe down the pistols and put a very dry film on them and they rock . when they get hot the lube comes to the surface when they cool its dry as a bone. cant say enough about it.
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Militec 1 only lube you need to know. Been useing it since my buddy sent me some from iraq years ago. best stuff on the market.
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ill check them out i have lotsa questions on this..
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only real difference is i would find the straight 60 grit carbide. i love the grip SOLID but in time it will wear down as with anything . So i like the fact i can re apply when needed. ran it thru 2 matches so far was top of my group and last match top shooter over all. Was it the grip or the extra practice i have been doing probably the practice but im sure grip helped.
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Well dropped my deposit on one today. guy at shooters connection. it was basically a IDPA ESP gun but some one in the marketing dept said to market it to the 3 gun guys, Since 3 guns is becoming so popular. I was gonna go with an eagle but like the looks of it. Its suppose to be a outta the box Awesome ESP class gun for gamers. So we will see im number 2 on the list so heres to hoping low serial number and best quality..
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My bad it was a reload with retention not an emergency reload. So he wasnt empty when he was advancing but did initiate a reload behind cover and out of step with the other side of the barricade. he could not re-engage targets with out "traveling " so he got the PE. It was my bad thought it was a emergency reload..
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very interesting ill call my trainer. The way he made it seem is that when you finish your reload you must be able to engage targets within the one step. Or maybe i took that wrong.
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Maybe im thinking esp?
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8.2.1.3.3 Magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, decocking levers, hammers, and triggers, that are stock on one SSP legal firearm may be used on another SSP legal firearm from the same manufacturer provided they are drop in replacements.
The one in my book ( i DL the rules from HQ and had a binder made) states above but adds " Special parts that are available installed only from a factory custom shop are not eligible in ssp effective 04-01-2014."
My question is then if someone has a after market trigger like apex or ZEV Tech Fulcrum Fully Adjustable Trigger that will not be legal in SSP after april correct ?
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8.2.1.3.3 Magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, decocking levers, hammers, and triggers, that are stock on one SSP legal firearm may be used on another SSP legal firearm from the same manufacturer provided they are drop in replacements.
The one in my book states that but adds " Special parts that are available installed only from a factory custom shop are not eligible in ssp effective 04-01-2014."
My question is then if someone has a after market trigger like apex or ZEV Tech Fulcrum Fully Adjustable Trigger that will not be legal in SSP correct after april.
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"... I am not the only competitor this happened to during the match.
Is it legal for the score keeper in a match to make these calls ?"
My concern would be that the shooter was given the opportunity to correct his error before
the penalty was given ? Did the "SK" verbally call "Cover !" ? Or did you find out about it
only after your run ?
A fault line would for ever eliminate this on going cover call.
It has always been a major problem in IDPA.
How many times have we all seen a big time shooter go fast enough that a SO does not know if they used cover or not.
Go slow Joe blow does the same as big time but gets the procedural for cover.
Leaving cover calls up to SO's will always be up to their personal interpretation.
Enough!!
Problem with a fault line would be cover is different for each person. i am 6'6" and can lean WAAAAAAAYYYYYY around a corner compared to my competitor who is say 5'3". Im in favor of a fault line because it would give me an advantage when shooting around corners for that last target.
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This is by far the most frequently discussed "new rule" being discussed at every IDPA match (sanctioned and non-sanctioned) that I have attended since the new rules went into effect in October. Believe me . . . . . you are not the only one who cannot "wrap your mind around" the thought process behind this rule. Lots of opinions behind it, but I'm not aware of an "official" explanation, although it might be out there somewhere.
From what i got at the SO training in MI the rule is as he described it to me to wrap my head around. " You cannot reload except at a point of cover, and A point of cover is a point from which you can engage targets." A reload is started when you push the mag release or grab a magazine. So the instance he had was you engage five targets from one side of a wall and ran your gun empty but all targets have been engaged and you are still behind cover. You turn to run down the 10 ft long wall (gun empty) before you break cover on the opposing side to engage the last 3 targets you must reload. so as you get near the end of the wall you step and plant one foot.( forward most foot ) then step with your other foot while dropping the magazine ( keeping your original foot still planted and initiating the reload ) when that foot hits the ground and you are almost done with the reload you lift your planted foot but when it hits the ground you must be able to engage targets with no more foot movement. So this makes you think about if your going around the right side or left side of the wall which foot your going to plant so when you reset it after your reload you are right in position to engage the next set of targets.
if you leave a point of cover to engage targets on the move and you have no more cover to move to you cannot reload and when you run out of bullets you are finished.
Also once you take a area of cover you do not need to retreat back to reload. So you're going around a wall to engage 3 targets if you shoot 2 you do not need to go back to full cover of the first target to reload I.E once you take a space you don't give it up to the bad guy. some of the rules i like because it makes you think.
not sure this helps clear anything or creates more questions.
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this is my target M&P Pro 5" COL 1.145 147gr Bear Creek moly bullet WST KKM barrel 3.2gr did not make PF 125k 3.4 made 132PF 3.6 made 136 PF ten meters off a rest ( not ransom just resting pistol on rest ).
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latest pics of last run COL 1.145 3.2gr WST 3.4gr WST and 3.6gr WST KKM barrel and S&W barrel
This was kkm 3.4 bottom 3.6 top
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kkm barrel is 1in20 so 147 might not work for that twist ... Guy at kkm said lead bullets and 147 with that twist wont work . the barrels are designed for jacketed or plated bullets. He said i might try plated 147 at sonic speeds i was like NO thank you..
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ill have to look into that i was kinda thinking that but moved my C.O.L. to 1.145 and the 3.2 130 pf worked pretty well where the 136 pf was alright also but im still workin on it
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forgot my C.O.A.L is 1.10
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I have a problem with this set up. im switching from the stock barrel and heard how amazing kkm barrels are so i figured i wanted to goto 147gr slow bullet to improve my gaming. well let me tell ya what . From 3.2 gr wst
3.4 gr
3.6 gr
Groups were horrible at 10 yards from a rest.
anyone have the range for wst and bear creek 147
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sorry not aloud to upload to many images at once.. yet i may have gone over the size limit also sorry but the links work ..
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Ok here we go first upload about this i have done so don't be to harsh.
So first thing i did was get my tools and my grip together. I used 60-90 carbide grit i found at a local rock shop they use it in there tumblers to polish rocks. I was looking for a straight 60 grit but in a pinch and first try this will do also got my adhesive and my soldering iron and industrial goo gone.
Next i did a little stipple job on the grip in arched pattern. From straight on the very center of the backstrap to a half circle arch on the sides. My thought on this was two fold.
1. the straight stipple with stop the gun with horizontal movement in the hand and the arching pattern on the side will deflect the downward movement and disperse it across the whole of my grip on the gun.
2 . when i add the carbide grit i wanted it and the glue to have someplace to really grip and set into.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_223227_zpsgltvk6rn.jpghttp://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_223240_zpsb1bnjt5p.jpg
next i used the goo gone and a paint brush ( acrylic fake bristle flat #10 i believe.) to remove any sweaty hands and finger print oils from the backstrap and to make sure the industrial adhesive had a clean contact point to adhere to.
Then putting a generous portion of adhesive on a paper plate i brushed it onto the the grip and made sure i added it in all directions to get it deep in the stippling i created. then put the grip into a zip lock baggie that contained the grit and pressed it into the carbide from all directions. making sure i got it fully covered. then removed it from the zip lock bag and used a hair dryer ( dont tell my wife it was hers..) to heat and start the curing process ( not sure this is necessary but he bottle did say to use heat to change the structure of the bond.) Had a higher N/ whatever rating. anyway i set it out to dry over night and DONT TOUCH IT .
Now at this point i will say that this adhesive is impermeable to oil, water etc about everything i think i will encounter in IDPA. But will come of if i use mek or the Goo gone. (tried it on a plastic and acrylic piece before i did this. ) came back to clean as a whistle. now will it go back to looking like it did when it was just stippled i dont know. But if i can remove it if for one reason or another i want to go coarser or finer i can just remove and reapply. Im not stuck with my decision. could be good or bad not sure yet but the adhesive is a grade 2 adhesive the guy said they use it to hold conveyer belts together at the rock mine. so it will stand up to many tons of pressure. so to me it was a better choice than jb-weld more expensive but the ability to change my mind is awesome.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_223319_zpscrcku56a.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_223327_zpsqzqxunda.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_223342_zpswsxkc77g.jpg
I really tried to get a shot of the coarseness in the stippling and the way the carbide fit into it . anyway here is my M&P with the full job i did. Keep in mind everything on this gun i have done myself and do take pride in knowing that. I could have ordered a Dawson front grip tape piece etc but i want to do it my self i know my limits and know what may be dangerous if i did my self ( as far as internal work) i leave that to the true gunsmiths. but this is my baby finished. hope this helps anyone. if you liked it let me know if you didn't other than my gross usage of the English language and lack of punctuation. Please no grammer nazi's I know it sucks im not a writer..
but here she is for her first unveiling...http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_231924_zpsdsl1tgoa.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o233/edgetattoo/Mobile%20Uploads/20140117_231913_zpstk6acdjn.jpg
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how are they for accuraccy. i am really interested in one but dont wanna drop the wad if they gonna be a 5" @ 25yrds kinda thing . i heard they are really accurate but thats just scuttlebutt . cause i dont know anyone who ones one..
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the only thing that kinda scares me about the shadow is this
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=188153
You see the list of parts he has with it ? do they break that often? i mean shit man thats alot of things needed to keep it running.
STI 2011 9mm factory build What do you change and why?
in 1911-style Pistols
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ya i know its just An eagle with some addons. but im going to use it in idpa for esp division. so the ice is a no go. was thinking about the sights haven't seen them yet on the marauder. i do like daves tho. The reason i started this is because talking to a few guys i hear them say get the firing system and extractor changed and it will e good. was just wondering if thats a preference of if there was something to it