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Force

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Everything posted by Force

  1. Has nothing to do with the nose of the bullet. It’s more in the ogive area and below. You can see the mark on the round on the right where I spun it in the chamber to see where it was hitting. This particular LW 9mm barrel is tighter than my others. The BB 125 gr RN work in all my other factory and LW barrels at an OAL of 1.150 and longer. The fix was to switch to the BB 125 gr Truncated bullets. I’m loading them to an OAL of 1.150 and they work perfectly in this LW barrel now.
  2. I emailed BluBullets and they said it could be my LW barrel. They run a bit tighter than other barrels. I’m also running a Carver comp. They suggest using the 125gr Truncated bullets.The old BlueBullets I had been shooting measured .355 then stepped down before the ogive to .353. The new bullets do pass the plunk test in a factory g17 barrel and in a LW 40-9 conversion barrel. In the photo you can see on the new bullet ( on the right) where it was hitting the lands. old style 125gr rn on the left. Disregard the heavy crimp on the one on the right. I was seeing if more crimp would help. It doesn’t. ordered some truncated to try. I guess I’ll use the 125 gr rn for steel with the factory barrel.
  3. I just got in a 1200 rd box of the newer 125 gr blue bullet round nose. I’d been shooting up my stockpile of the older bluebullet 125gr round nose. The newer 125 gr seem to have a better coating but don’t have the step that the older bullets had. Nothing has changed on my Dillon 550b ,but the newer bullets loaded at 1.150 will not pass the plunk test in my LoneWolf barreled open G17. I’m using the same amount of bell and crimp as the older bluebullets and plated bullets, which chambered fine at 1.150! The newer bullets measure the same at .355. I tried seating to 1.120 and it’s getting closer to chambering. 1.120 seems kinda short. What the fak is going on with these newer bullets? Anyone have any ideas ?
  4. I have shot about 200 rds of factory PMC bronze through the gun with zero issues.I'm just barely belling the case mouth. I started loading with 3.9 gr of AutoComp, functioned fine, and 3.5 gr of HP-38. Functioned fine also. I'll revisit the Titegroup load soon,and try to chrono some. This is my wife's little gun, otherwise I wouldn't load for it. I'm content with my G19 and G43 for EDC.
  5. Hmm,Not sure what I'm doing wrong then. Even when I bumped up to 3gr of Titegroup. Same problem,wouldn't cycle the slide and unburned powder in the barrel. This is a stock G42. Maybe I'm crimping them to tight?
  6. Just started loading for the wife's G42. I use Titegroup for all my other pistol loads so thought why not the little 380. Recipe: Barry's 100gr RNFB PMC once fired & New TNQ brass CCI 500 primer 2.7 gr of TG COL: .975 Hodgdon book data calls for a starting load of 2.6, max of 3.0 Loaded up 250 rds and the wife and I head to the range. She fires the 1st round and it goes "pop"! ( 5 yards. I swear I heard the little 100gr bullet hit the target) I'm thinking that sounded light, and take the pistol from her. Fired case not ejected. Crap. Drop mag, eject case, inspect barrel. Barrel is clear. Barrel looked awful black and suety. Unlike the light gray residue I'm used to with TG. Tried 4 more rounds with the same results. Won't even cycle the slide! She ended up shooting her last box of factory PMC without a hitch. After we got home, I pulled 10 of the reloaded rounds and weighed the powder. Exactly 2.7 grains. Should I bump up the powder a bit, or switch to something like W231 , or Unique? I've loaded zillions of rounds of 9,40 and 45 on my 550b using TG with zero problems. Edit: Bumped up to 3.0gr to Titegroup. Same issue. Won't cycle, unburned powder. Found some AutoComp in my stash. Book max for a 100gr rnfp is 4.2 gr. Loaded up 5 rds with 3.9gr . Functioned perfectly! Gonna try W231 next.
  7. I just loaded up 750 of the 9mm, 125gr. Using HS-6, velocities ranging from 1330-1550 I had absolutely 0 leading after 200 rds in my G17 open gun with a LWD barrel. COL 1.145 CCI 500 175+PF at 7.8 gr. This is my new go to boolit !
  8. I'm running the same setup on a G17 slide. POA/POI was within a few inches out of the box at 25. Had no problems adjusting it. Call Burris .
  9. This is exactly what I think is wrong with mine. Guy today said it can't be and told me it was just the rod and was going to send me a new one. But the slop in the housing is worse from what it originally was. They sent me instructions on how to fix a Square deal B and said the housing couldn't be the problem. I replied to their email and told them I have a 550B not a Square deal B and the primer housing is worn and sloppy. New parts arrived a week later.(primer housing and shield tube, large and small primer slides) Keep after them and they will send you the parts.
  10. Update: Dillon sent a new primer housing with shield, large and small primer slides. Press is working perfectly with the updated bearing plate now! Thanks Dillon!
  11. I made a new bearing plate as shown in the above video last night. Even with the new plate, my primer slide still fails to come all the way back to pickup a new primer. I have to bump the side of the slide at the top of the press stroke to get the primer slide to come back and pickup a primer. It appears that the primer housing has to much slop, and the slide is binding to the left. I've emailed Dillon asking for a new housing and slide.
  12. Zev Fulcrum http://www.glockworx.com/
  13. I'm running my limited G35 with 180gr MG and 4.5 gr of Titegroup. OAL is 1.135 Super Soft shooting . I run HS-6 in my G17open gun with a 124 gr bullet . Filthy slow powder and harsh.
  14. I'm shooting Filthy HS-6. I completely disassemble and clean my Glock after every match. My limited gun with Titegroup gets a total disassemble only if changing out extracters or for troubleshooting.
  15. Force

    OPEN GLOCKS

    Budget G17 open gun. Gen 1 slide LW barrel Carver 3 port comp ISMI 11# spring on a LW stainless captured rod. My G35 limited frame with: Dawson magwell SJC big button mag release Burris FF3 8moa Ghost trigger parts/springs 3.5 connector .50 cent trigger job In my garage stipple job
  16. I have a Sevigny fiber optic front sight with the Sevigny rear on my G35 Limited gun. I found that the recommeneded .245 height front site was to tall. Replaced it with the .215 sight and it is dead on now.
  17. Force

    Me or my sights

    Exact same thing I did. Sevigny set came with a .245 front FO for a g35. I was getting some nice groups in the 2x4's at a steel match,about 6" low. Switched to the .215 front FO and everything is dead on now!
  18. Force

    40 Open

    After shooting last season with a G35 in limited, my old eyes were telling me it was time for a dot. Going with a .40 for an open gun was my number one choice. Trying to find a used g22 slide for under the price of a complete gun was another story. So, for now I decided to build a super budget open Glock. I used a LW 40-9 4 port conversion barrel for a G35 that was collecting dust. Picked up a Burris FF3 8moa dot for around $190. Stuck everything in my G35 limited gun. Shooting 9 minor loads in it at about a 135 PF it was nice and soft. This allows me to get used to acquiring the dot for awhile to see if I like it before committing to an open .40 setup!
  19. Mobile 1 synthetic extreme duty with whatever break free CLP that's left from cleaning the gun!
  20. I went with gen3 G35. All my other Glocks are Gen 3. I can easily swap frames one to another.
  21. I use plastic Folgers coffee cans. They are free, easy to reload from during matches, and Free !
  22. Sevigny competition with fiber optic front on a G35.
  23. Looks awesome Nox! Better send me that open G17, it's gonna get awful lonely!
  24. Melt it back together with a wood burning Iron and throw on a magwell. Looks like it had a magwell on it before.
  25. Just picked up a FF3,8moa w/pic mount yesterday Gonna attempt to slap it on top of my TS .22 conversion slide. Waiting on a dovetail mount which should arrive next Monday. So far, not a big fan of the battery on top idea. The lid seems to want to try and cross thread when tightening it up. Brightness in Auto seems to work pretty good from my limited testing. The power button is hard to press, but may be a good thing to help keep it from turning on by accident. Will post more once I get the dovetail mount and get the sight mounted and zeroed.
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