dwpmusic

Initial setup was a little intimidating to me. I'm just not that mechanically inclined. But with the DVD that I bought and the instruction manual I eventually got it done. Just take it slow and step by step and you'll get it done. It's a remarkably simple machine once you get it going and realize what it's doing and how it operates. I haven't been handloading very long and I learn something everyday. One thing about is you can call Dillon and they will stay on the phone with you as long as it takes to get you up and running. If something breaks it will be in the mail to you the same day. They are tops. You'll enjoy you 550. Trust me.

Not good. Hope no one was hurt.

Thanks. Is there ever any lubrication required on the primer punch?

Hey guys, I think my primer problem solved itself. At least I think it has. I loaded a dozen primers in the magazine tube by hand just a little bit ago. Deprimed and primed a dozen pieces of brass without a hitch. Performed perfectly. I've yet to work up the nerve to load a 100 primers since I'm still finding some of the first 100 on the floor. Anyway, I think it had to be something I was doing. If it continues to function correctly I just might consider another 550 for large primer calibers. Thanks for everyone's concern. Now if I could just get some concrete advice on how many grains of Win231 to put behind my Berry's 158grRN. Some are saying that 3.2gr is too light.

Thanks guys. I'm working on it

Yeah, my bench is real sturdy. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks Tom. 10-4 on everything you said. I don't know how they get disoriented unless I put them in the wrong way with the pickup tube. Don't think I did that. I'm going to take your advice until I get it smoothed out and just put a few primers in at a time rather than load all 100. I'll call Dillon if I can't get it going. Thanks again.

For all you 550B owners out there I have a question. Is there any way to completely avoid primer problems on the 550B besides just hand priming? Just got my 550 changed over from .45ACP to .38/.357 yesterday which, or course, necessitated changing from a large primer to a small primer. Everything went perfectly except the dreaded primer slide. It's either one thing or another. Either the primer slide doesn't go back far enough to let a primer fall into the cup or some way the darn things get disoriented in the magazine tube and won't drop at all. So, by the way, another question. With 100 primers loaded in the magazine is where any way to get them out without taking the magazine off which results in new primers all over your work bench, the floor and who know where else? Kind of a real p***er for someone that's comparatively new at handloading. Third question, how does 3.2gr Win231 behind a 158gr Berry's round nose sound? Am I starting too low? Thanks for letting me rant?

Well, I'm pretty sure at some point in the future I'll want to acquire a chrono. Right now I just want to be sure of a safe starting charge with Win231 and a 230gr FMJ regardless of how slow or fast it goes.

Thanks for the useful information.

Wow! ! I'm looking on the Hodgdon website right now and for a 230gr LRN bullett it's saying 4.3 for a starting load and 5.3gr for a maximum for Win231. Got some real confusion going on here. Page 973 of the new Speer #14 manual has 5.6 for a starting load and 6.2 for a maximum on a 230gr TMJ RN bullett. Page 382 of the new Lyman 49th edition gives 5.2gr for a starting load with 5.8 for a maximum on a 230gr TMJ. Also the Lyman Pistol & Revolver Handbook Third Edition gives the same identical data on Page 191. What am I reading wrong? All of this is for Winchester 231 although some of the data just says "231". This is going to be my very first starting load. I don't want to screw up. It seems to me that there would be a vast difference between 4.3gr and 5.2gr for a starting charge. Somebody, anybody, step in here and give some clarification and guidance on this, please. You simply can't find more of a novice than I am at the moment. Help! !

You're not hijacking anything. I need to learn probably more than you do. Keep the questions coming.

Thanks. I'll be checking into that.

By the way, can some of you suggest a good chronograph?

I'm getting the idea, guys. Check, check, check, safety, safety, safety. I'm not getting in to this to blow me, my guns or anyone else up. I'm retired, don't have anything but time so if I make a mistake I can't blame anyone but myself. Thanks for the feedback.

I'll check that. Thanks.

Thanks for the advice, guys. Got a lot to learn and hopefully a lot of fun to have.

Okay. Just getting started in the reloading business and I need to ask more than one stupid question. So, here is stupid question #1. Bought some bullets, primers and powder Saturday in advance of my press, etc. getting here. Got a brand new Speer manual and a brand new Lyman manual. Talking .45ACP here. In looking at the recipe for 230gr TMJ using Winchester 231 powder Speer suggests a starting grain of 5.6 and Lyman suggests a starting grain of of 5.2 supposedly on the same exact Speer bullet (#4480). Trying to do it right and that, to me, is confusing. Also I happened to buy some Nosler 230gr FMJ bullets. I know this question has been asked a million times and all the reloading manuals tell you that substitution of any component (bullet, brass, primer or powder) will change the result you get. But, can I use my Nosler 230gr bullet with the recipe in either manual and why the difference in starting grains with the same exact bullet? How and what can you substitute of any of the four components, obviously with the same bullet weight and type, and be safe? For the first batch of reloads I want to use the Nosler bullets , Winchester primers, Winchester 231 powder and Winchesters brass. And what recipe should I start with? Isn't 5.2 to 5.6 quite a difference? Do I have to buy every reloading manual under the sun and match every single thing that it calls for? Forgive my ignorance. Any and all replies appreciated as usual.

Thanks for the reply. I'd say the top is 2 to 3" thick. I think it will be fine with the strong mount which I was planning on get anyway. I was just concerned that on 20" depth would present a problem.

Very new to this. Haven't even got my 550 press yet. Anyway, I picked up a bench at Home Depot, ready made, that is 72" long but only 20" deep. The 20" deep part concerns me. Is that deep enough to mount the press and have enough depth for working room? Excuse my ignorance. Trying to learn.

Thanks Darqnezz!

Thanks so much for the invitation, oldtrooper. I might take you up on that one day although I'm sure I'm not anywhere in the league you guys are in. Thanks again.

Thanks for all the welcomes. I will most definitely try to come to the Classic in May. I belong to the category of "some shooters".

Jackson

Finally got registered, validated and whatever. Wondered why I couldn't answer a thread or post a new one. Guess I know now. A local website recommended this forum for anyone thinking about getting into reloading. That's my main purpose in joining. However, it appears there's a lot more knowledge to avail yourself of than just reloading. Got back into pistol shooting about a year ago after a long absence and obviously have spent much more on ammunition than I could have purchased a lot of reloading gear for. So, I continue to read and try to convince myself that I can do it without blowing myself up. What to buy still looms heavy. Single stage, progressive, brand, numerous questions. Anyway, glad to be here and hope to learn a bunch. Currently shooting Glocks and Smiths.