Gerimee

Follow up....ended up dremeling the opening out more so the dies pass through without any contact. Thanks to Lee at UniqueTek, through him looking at all the turret presses at the 2018 shot show, he noticed RCBS had the least amount of clearence of all the turret presses that are currently out, including the new Lyman turret press. Making the opening deep enough to allow the dies to clear the press, we have not had any issues with multiple rifle calibers in the Redding Comp dies with the spring loaded sleeve that sticks below th die body. Thank you and hope this info helps someone else that runs into the same delema.

Really no good way to attach a fabricated ramp to the press that we can figure out

Really no good way to attach a fabricated ramp to the press that we can figure out

Hi everyone, if this was already covered, please let me know. I didn’t have any luck searching. A friend has run into a small problem. We have been loading at my place for some years and he is trying to get set up at his place now. Have always used Redding T-7 with Redding comp dies with the spring loaded sleeve at my place. He bought a RCBS Turret Press put his Redding Comp dies in the Turret, got them set up but now he can’t turn the Turret. The sleeve from the die hits in the back of the press. Don’t really want to turn the dies out any. Only option we have come up with is milling the back of the press some. Looks like we would have to remove 0.125-0.188 of material to have enough clearance. Has as anyone else run into this or know of any other possible fixes we could try? Thank you in advanced

This all really helped. Thanks a lot everyone. Got the FO replaced and back in business. I also chamfered the ALS. slightly like you mentioned FLASH. After 10 hrs of practice and countless draws, the FO is still holding up well. Thanks again.

Holy smokes. Thank you very much. I was really over thinking the entire process. Thanks again Stealthy. Really appreciate both links and your time.

Thank you for the help. Anything special I need to do so it stays in place?

I have a completely stock Pro 40L with the green F/O front site and TLR-1S and I'm running a Safariland holster and noticed my front site was rubbing bad on the ALS lock inside the holster and my fiber optic rubbed enough during shooting drills that it had fallen out. What size fiber optic replacement rod do I need to buy? Eye balling the hole with calipers, I'm coming up with 0.080... is this right? Do I need any special tools to secure the new FO rod in the front site? crimp tool or anything? Thank you in advanced for any and all advice...

I wear the G-Code INCOG IWB holster with a mag caddy. I wear it in the appendix position. Shorts and thin white undershirt and it is totally concealed. I'm 5'2" and 160lbs. tacticalholsters.com Retention is adjustable with the holster as well as the mag caddy. You can have good retention and still draw very fast. Been wearing it for almost 2yrs and wouldn't trade it for anything else. I bet my life on it! You need to call them when you order and let them know you don't have the safety and they will flatten out the spot for the safety so it is right.

I didn't have any luck searching and hoping someone can help me out. I have a M&P Pro 40 w/ 5" barrel. I have a Streamlight TLRS-1 mounted on it and I'm looking for a right hand holster. Preferably kydex. I like the Safariland style with the ALS lock system. My ultimate goal is to have a leg mount holster. Is there one that anyone can recommend. I'm not concerned how much it cost as long as its good quality. I don't want to have to use 2 hands to remove all the straps and snaps to remove the weapon from the holster. Looking on Safariland's website, I could only find one for a left hand shooter. It doesn't have to be a safariland holster. I'm just using them to point out features I like in a holster. Thank you in advanced.

Awesome. Thank you. He called me this afternoon and told me $700 takes it all so sounds like a pretty good deal. I told him what you guys said and he said $700 was what he wanted so guess I'm going to the bank tomorrow.

I wouldn't want to take advantage of him. We just wernt sure where to start. He paid $625 new from the gun shop for the Pro and $325 for the shield new from the same place. He got them last summer. He said he didn't want to sell them to me for what the gunshop would sell them for but didn't want to just give them away which I completely understand and we have found gunbroker to be a terrible resource for a honest price.

If I'm posting this in the wrong area, I apologize, and please redirect me to the proper section. A good friend of mine wants to sell his M&P Pro 40 with 5" barrel, night sights, 2 mags, OWB Kydex holster that he got off here and has no more than 100 rounds down the tube and also a Shield 9mm with a Alien Gear IWB holster and 2 mags. Has no more than 100 rounds through it as well. Any idea what to offer him individually and as a package deal for both?

The Kimber is not one of a kind. Just the stainless model and is as bone stock as it comes. I don't really have any attachment to it and have been wanting a M&P for a while. Just didn't know if I was going from a great quality & shooting gun to a lesser gun or if its a toss up.

I have kind of a dumb question. I currently have a Kimber Pro TLE II with crimson trace grips chambered in 45acp. I purchased it from a buddy for $700 with no rounds down the tube and 2 extra mags. I've put 200 rounds through it myself and a good friend of mine has been bugging me to sell it to him for $1000. I'm not really concerned about making money. Especially from friends. But what I have been thinking about doing is getting a new full frame M&P Pro in either 9 or 40 for getting into competitive shooting and purchasing a M&P in 45acp for a CCW or just to have. I really like the 45acp caliber. So basically I was wondering if it was worth letting 1 Kimber go and getting 2 M&P's (with a little cash out of my pocket) or should I keep the Kimber? I don't have enough trigger time with this Kimber to fully appreciate its quality or its potential to shoot and I have no experience with M&P's. Just going off of what I've read on here about the M&P's. Opinions please?

Figures...I know some guys that run them on their bolt guns but zero experience with them in the AR platform. Its always nicer to learn from others mistakes/experience than to make the same mistake twice. Thank you.

Is that normal from Shilen to have poor quality control or just a fluke?

Pat - do you think there is a difference between the barrel extension tool you mentioned and the Geissele Reaction Rod 100-011-315WB other than the price and manf.

Anyone have any experience with Shilen Barrels for the AR? can you compare them to JP barrels? chambered in .223

That was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much LoganBillJ

Hey guys, Im sure there is a area on here that has already covered this, I'm just having a hard time finding it so if someone could please direct me there or give me some advice, I would really appreciate it. This is my first AR build and I'm unsure about 2 things. Barrel torqueing and receiver lapping. Is it necessary or worth lapping the receiver? and for the barrel, I've heard 2 different methods. Some says the barrel should be torqued between 30-50 ftlbs but to keep torqueing on the barrel nut until the gas port is lined up properly. And some guys say that the barrel nut should be tightened and loosened 5 times before torqueing. Some also recommended using barrel shims (similar to the shims used to time your brake or flash hider) so you can get the proper torque and have the barrel timed right for everything to line up. I just want the rifle to be right, I want to learn right, but the keep tightening until it lines up method doesn't sound right as I'm guessing something is going to give within a matter of time weather it be the threads stripping out or what ever it may be so I wanted to check with you guys. I don't mind buying the right tools for the job and it doesn't matter to me how long it takes to do as long as I don't have to do it twice because it wasn't done right the first time. I have a PRI barrel wrench for torqueing the nut. Thank you for your time and knowledge

I did retrieve the brass. The case didnt split but there is a very deep crater from the firing pin. The only spent cases on the ground at that time were from my last 8 rounds. I was leaning dowards a double charge but I don't recall stoping at all during the reloading. I'm loading on a dillon 550b. I use a rcbs charge master for setting up the powder dispenser so its a fairly accurate scale. But, I'm not gonna deny and say its impossible that I made the mistake of double charge. I just never experienced this before. If It was case failure, the case would be split or pretty ruined? I don't check any of the 45 brass cases for length. Should I start?

I was wondering if someone more experienced than me could possible tell me what may have caused this. I have Kimber Stainless Pro LTE II with a 4in barrel. I have 180 rounds through it as of today and today I shot 100 of the total 180 so the gun is still pretty new. My ammo is 230gr TMJ over 5.5gr of w231 My last shot using a MEC-GAR mag, the bang of the round sounded completely different. More muffled. I got a face full of what I'm guessing was blow back but not 100% sure. My shooting glasses deffinately saved me. Felt like a quick shot from a sand blaster gun to the face and the bottom of my mag blew out. The mag is metal with a plastic bottom. The plastic is blow in peices and the mag spring got bent up some. The pistol it self doesn't have any damage to it. The primer doesn't have a hole in it so it wasnt punchured. I just have no clue as to what caused this. I've reloaded thousands of rounds. Pistol and rifle. There were no interruptions in the loading of the ammo that was shot today. I suppose a double charge maybe? I do look in each case to inspect powder, but it is possible I could have over looked or missed something. Thank you in advanced.

Thank you everyone for your input. It cleared up alot of decision making. Really appreciate it. When in doubt, buy em both

Do you think a Baers would be a better choice than STI? Or is it more of a personal preference? I noticed they do custom work as well to the STI's. I fully support those that support our sport.