Travis224

Great! I will do that, I did the search and geez, this is a wealth of info and get lost. It seems that the biggest hurdle witht the GP100 is the trigger..

I have both a JM brake and a Vais on my ARs, i think the Vais has less concussion and is a tad more effective. But its twice the money...

I have a kkm on my 9mm, it may not have been needed but i got one anyways and it shoots Independence Ammo very well, i do use the factory one with federal ammo tho, so i interchange with what im using.

I am hoping to get either a S&W or GP100 soon, what is a decent holster for steel shooting matches? I ask because there are alot of alternatives when it comes to semi-autos, but i am new to the revolver arena..

Can a GP100 be resprung to get it close to S&W levels? I know that Smiths are great but a Ruger might be a feasable contender for hunting/steel shooting for me.

I've read for hours trying to figure out the model(s) that would work the best for me. I'm wanting the caliber to be 38/357 for my deer hunting and so i think that i should be looking for a minimum of 5" barrel. I do want to either have a model cut for moon clips, or i will cut it for moon clips. I don't know what shot cylinder i need for quick reloads so a 6 shot or 7 shot for ease of reloading is what i'd like you guys to tell me. My range is usually set up for a total number of hits required for the run is 24 shots, no misses.. I actually don't have a preferrance to manufacturers, but i hunted with a borrowed Security-Six and it worked for that very well. But i am skeptical as to how well it'd do on steel. I do want to be able to mount a red dot sight on the thing, i may not, butbi want the option... Any ideas? And please help me out by telling me more than the model, i am not too afraid to spend money on a good gun, just want the ONE gun that will handle the two things i am asking. Thanks to all that help!

I know i got into this late, but my own 9mm shot ok with the factory barrel, and now it shoots way way better after the kkm barrel was installed. I can call my shots with the kkm barrel and have become a force to be reckoned with at my club..the only strange thing is the factory barrel ahot Winchester white box ammo decent and the kkm barrel "patterns" them. But other than that, I have less in mine than what it'd take to get a 1911 to be tricked out with the goodies and is perfectly reliable which considering the posts on the 1911 forum here, is a coin toss on reliability .

I have a m&p 9mm and bought a kkm drop in and can say that in factory ammo tested that they prefer different ammo completely. Doesnt shoot all ammo better over the factory barrel at all. But if you seek out the factory ammo that each barrel prefers, i see about 1/2 size in group reduction with no fliers with the kkm...although the fliers might happen because i shoot the cheapest ammo i can find. Kkm barrel wont shoot win. White box even close to as good as factory barrel does with same ammo for example.

Oops, i meant Edge... sorry

I guess what im wondering is can a guy really save money or just buy a fully built gun from dawsons? A buddy has a Eagle in 40 cal and i really like it but for my steel matches i think I'd rather build a 9mm version.

I will throw this out there...m&p. Its getting a big following and has flawless performance. Match winner twice in a row now. I know its polymer but because it's the only pistol i shoot, i dont feel outgunned at all.

Its a hornady single stage press.

I have winchester 115 fmj bullets, primers, titegroup powder, and rcbs dies. Do i expand brass or not? Crimp or not? Im shooting a m&p with a kkm barrel by the way. Not shooting for anything but accuracy and power factor is no issue.

You need the 9/40. I just bought a blackhawk sportster standard concealment holster that was intended for a xd/xdm 4"/3.8" and fits perfectly with my m&p 22 and 9mm. Cost me 26$ at scheels and is perfect for range use. For actual concealment though id use something with a safety catch.

Or is there one that fits a broad range of mags?

Another thing is there might be something of a break- in since i only ran about 30 rounds thru it.

I know that its not the most ideal for turning into a steel/open gun...but has anyone done it? Can you post pics?

Ok, makes sense. I have a wolfe 15# spring, doubt i would see any difference from stock...

Oops, yes faile to fire. I am going to try this : keep 13# recoil spring and put the factory striker spring and see how that combo works.

Further details, i had apex competition trigger kit and my reciol spring i was having FTF with was a 13#.

I put my kkm barrel on and lightened my recoil spring. Almost right away i was getting a loaded round with a dead trigger (not cocked). I put the stock spring back in but ran out of bullets but the 10 i tried were flawless. Any ideas?

So i have built my m&p 9mm and outfitted it with dawson fiber optic sights and adj rear. I have searched and think that the Bladetech doh looks like the best fit. Is that right? Anyone seen a used one around on a shelf?

Thanks! Im new to competing and the rules are numerous so i thought it would be easier to just ask.

I'm a true tikka fan and only shoot them besides an AR that i carry when calling coyotes. The tikkas are truely in a class by themselves. I barreled one in a 17rem for a fur rifle and the gunsmith said the action is VERY true and square. Unbedded im achieving 3/8 groups and when it was still a 223 it would get me 1/2 inch groups as a SPORTER barrel! Truely amazing guns.

Ive gone only this far with my m&p because i know that with changing to a comped barrel and red dot sight, i can go full open. Before i do that though, what do i shoot my gun in to get the trigger time before jumping into full open class?